Printers are rarely able to print even as much as the monitor can display especially reds. Most programs such as PS have Soft Proofing which shows on screen any colours outside of the printer colour space...... See .......

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/soft-proofing.htm

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You can't exceed 255, but it doesn't matter because you will be out of gamut with anything over about 225.

Look at the selection palette on any editor/drawing program. You can move the selector about quite a bit the numbers change, but the red you see in the section box stays the same i.e. 225 65 55 looks identical to 255 65 55

Example Zoner Colour Picker a big area of red looks the same even though the values are different.




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I'm not sure if this is posted as a good or bad example? Certainly to me on my monitor a lot of the detail looks out of gamut. There's a lot of detail in the petals not visible in colour.

Very quick conversion to B&W



There are many tutorials on the web for working spaces. This is just one....

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/sRGB-AdobeRGB1998.htm

Note reds are mostly outside the sRGB and AdobeRGB1998 colour spaces.

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Red and yellow are two colours that extend well beyond the gamut of our monitor displays. So they can't be displayed other than looking burnt out.

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I think BIF means "Birds in Flight" unless your in my local pub in which case the best 3 letter acronym to remember is RUN

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Well done Alan

Your right Nigel Page 91 of the K-5 Manual...... Meter Operating Time
I've set it now to 30 secs. The focus beep now stays on with a MF lens for 30 secs. It has to be turned on via the AF button. Might be better turning the half press back on with a MF lens.

Amazing what you find out when you RTFM Did you know that you can actually change the lens No need to buy a new camera with each new lens What next!!

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With any long lens sharpness depends quite a lot on how steady you can hold it. A lighter lens is easier to hold steady so often it will be better than a heavier lens.

I once tried a 2x TC on a tripod mounted Sigma 150-500mm and even on a heavy tripod with a Novoflex B&S head couldn't hold it steady enough. I put a Novoflex GAKO Forked Joint Long Telephoto Lens Support on another tripod near the front of the lens and the results were about 10x better Obviously only usable for static subjects.

One on ebay.....

The 55-300mm is excellent and easy to handhold even at 1/300th sec.

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Sorry.. It does do dat doe.... don't it doe

It wasn't doing it yesterday. I possibly changed another setting.

It switches off too soon. Anyone know of a setting to extend the stay on time.

For CIF I actually disconnected a wire on a wired remote so that I couldn't fire the trigger, but could switch the camera on (half-press equivalent) and hold it there.

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It will stabilize on 1st press which you have to do to use the rear AF button anyway. If it goes off the AF button won't wake the camera We are becoming a nation of button pushers

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