Why use 'old' glass?
Posted 12/01/2013 - 07:41
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I can't add anything to the eloquently expressed views above. So I'll just endorse them!
The only real drawback is the lack of a true wide angle for landscapes on a cropped-sensor camera. My widest is 24mm.
I love using old lenses. Mind you, it's great when I switch back and put everything on auto. A bit like taking a holiday.
The only real drawback is the lack of a true wide angle for landscapes on a cropped-sensor camera. My widest is 24mm.
I love using old lenses. Mind you, it's great when I switch back and put everything on auto. A bit like taking a holiday.
Best wishes,
Andrew
"These places mean something and it's the job of a photographer to figure-out what the hell it is."
Robert Adams
"The camera doesn't make a bit of difference. All of them can record what you are seeing. But, you have to SEE."
Ernst Hass
My website: http://www.ephotozine.com/user/bwlchmawr-199050
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Andrew
"These places mean something and it's the job of a photographer to figure-out what the hell it is."
Robert Adams
"The camera doesn't make a bit of difference. All of them can record what you are seeing. But, you have to SEE."
Ernst Hass
My website: http://www.ephotozine.com/user/bwlchmawr-199050
http://s927.photobucket.com/home/ADC3440/index
https://www.flickr.com/photos/78898196@N05
Posted 12/01/2013 - 08:13
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economics for me too really. when i started with a nikon i couldn't afford to buy digital type lenses. and those which i might have been able to pick up weren't really worth having.
whereas using old glass and adapter rings, i was able to get a couple of really nice lenses for pocket money just by sacrificing autofocus. couldn't have been happier with them, then i sold the camera and kept the lenses. and that's why i've gone with a pentax body this time round for better compatibility to the type of lenses i can afford and that i enjoy using.
even when they aren't perfect, they have a character that can't be matched by new stuff.
that said, if it's not your thing, don't worry about it. i doubt you'll get lens snobbery because you prefer to use modern glass.
whereas using old glass and adapter rings, i was able to get a couple of really nice lenses for pocket money just by sacrificing autofocus. couldn't have been happier with them, then i sold the camera and kept the lenses. and that's why i've gone with a pentax body this time round for better compatibility to the type of lenses i can afford and that i enjoy using.
even when they aren't perfect, they have a character that can't be matched by new stuff.
that said, if it's not your thing, don't worry about it. i doubt you'll get lens snobbery because you prefer to use modern glass.
Posted 12/01/2013 - 10:22
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Well, we go on about how cheap they are but I didn't get any decent results until I invested in a Katzeye split-prism focusing screen. Before that, focusing with manual glass was too difficult and yielded poor results.
An M50/1.7 in good condition might go for 30 quid but a Katzeye will set you back another hundred or so.
An M50/1.7 in good condition might go for 30 quid but a Katzeye will set you back another hundred or so.
Pentax hybrid user - Digital K3, film 645 and 35mm SLR and Pentax (&other) lenses adapted to Fuji X and Panasonic L digital
Fan of DA limited and old manual lenses
Fan of DA limited and old manual lenses
Posted 12/01/2013 - 13:51
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Jonathan-Mac wrote:
Well, we go on about how cheap they are but I didn't get any decent results until I invested in a Katzeye split-prism focusing screen. Before that, focusing with manual glass was too difficult and yielded poor results.
An M50/1.7 in good condition might go for 30 quid but a Katzeye will set you back another hundred or so.
Never had a problem myself. If there is a problem, and that would only be if there was low light, then I just open up the lens to focus then select the required aperture afterwards.
Well, we go on about how cheap they are but I didn't get any decent results until I invested in a Katzeye split-prism focusing screen. Before that, focusing with manual glass was too difficult and yielded poor results.
An M50/1.7 in good condition might go for 30 quid but a Katzeye will set you back another hundred or so.
This space deliberately left blank.
Posted 12/01/2013 - 14:38
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I did buy a split image screen for my K200D for use with a M50/1.7 and other manual focus lenses. It was very effective and useful. I don't think I'll need one for the K30 - Live View and Focus Peaking are, I think, even more accurate, though perhaps a bit more fiddly in use.
I don't understand darkskies comment about focussing. Isn't the M50/1.7 normally wide open, only stopping down to the set aperture when the shutter release button is fully pressed?
Andrew
I don't understand darkskies comment about focussing. Isn't the M50/1.7 normally wide open, only stopping down to the set aperture when the shutter release button is fully pressed?
Andrew
Posted 12/01/2013 - 15:24
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I think you'll find, unless your camera/lens is broken, ALL K-mount lenses will be wide open during focussing, due to that spring lever which contacts the mount.
Posted 12/01/2013 - 15:30
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Sorry about that. I've deleted my comment that mdc has just replied to as I was talking crap.
I was thinking about my Super Tak M42 lens.
I was thinking about my Super Tak M42 lens.
Posted 12/01/2013 - 17:25
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what does a katzeye actually do? is being unable to focus properly more to do with your eyesight and less to do with the lens?
i have pretty crap eyesight but i don't struggle to focus manually
i have pretty crap eyesight but i don't struggle to focus manually
Posted 12/01/2013 - 18:04
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Wow. Looks like I opened a floodgate there!
Thanks far all the replies.
I will certainly keep a look out for some 'interesting' lenses now.
The manual focusing element did make me concerned as I often find it difficult with modern viewfinders. However once Jonathan-Mac mentioned the Kats eye split screen I started to feel much better about the whole idea. I had seen these before but had forgotten all about them. I have checked and there is a version for the K5 and so one of these has now been added to my, ever growing, list of thing to buy. However I shall try more manual focus with the current VF before I commit. Does anyone know if there is a UK supplier or do you have to order direct?
I do intend to add the DA 12-24 to my normal kit list but might think about some older lenses for the longer focal lengths. I occasionally like to go out in search of wildlife. Can anyone recommend a good, old, lens to look for?
Are there any K mount lenses that won't work with the K5? There seems to be a plethora of abbreviations used; DA, A, SMC, FA, AF, WR, etc, etc, I know what many if them mean but are there any that are better options than others?
Thanks far all the replies.
I will certainly keep a look out for some 'interesting' lenses now.
The manual focusing element did make me concerned as I often find it difficult with modern viewfinders. However once Jonathan-Mac mentioned the Kats eye split screen I started to feel much better about the whole idea. I had seen these before but had forgotten all about them. I have checked and there is a version for the K5 and so one of these has now been added to my, ever growing, list of thing to buy. However I shall try more manual focus with the current VF before I commit. Does anyone know if there is a UK supplier or do you have to order direct?
I do intend to add the DA 12-24 to my normal kit list but might think about some older lenses for the longer focal lengths. I occasionally like to go out in search of wildlife. Can anyone recommend a good, old, lens to look for?
Are there any K mount lenses that won't work with the K5? There seems to be a plethora of abbreviations used; DA, A, SMC, FA, AF, WR, etc, etc, I know what many if them mean but are there any that are better options than others?
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flickr
"I carry a camera to capture memories and the occasional photograph worthy of sharing"
Posted 12/01/2013 - 18:58
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All K-mount lenses will work with the K5. HOWEVER, there are two things you need to be wary of:
1. Extra long aperture lever protection flanges. I have a Sigma lens with one of these. In order to mount it on a DSLR the flange needs to be cut back to avoid damage to the inside of the camera.
2. The infamous Ricoh pin. This is a pin used on some lenses for I forget what, but it's in exactly the same place as the screw-drive AF on SLRS and can lead to the lens being locked onto the camera and requiring a technician to remove it.
Neither of these is very common and never appear of Pentax-made lenses.
Be aware that there are cheaper options to the Katzeye. Some people like them, some complain. I decided to skip the risk and go for what I understand is the best. Katzeyes need to be ordered direct, unless you can find one second hand, which is rare.
Lens series:
K - first fully manual series. Metal.
M - later fully manual series, functionally identical to K. Metal.
A - Auto aperture. Aperture can be controlled from the camera body, allowing various auto exposure modes, Made of plastic, but quite strong.
F - first auto-focus lenses. Made of plastic but far lower build quality than older lenses.
FA - newer AF, functionally identical to F
DA - As FA but for digital therefore may not cover the image circle of film.
DFA - Updated FA. Covers image circle of film.
Other abbreviations:
SMC - Super-Multi-Coating, increases contrast and light transmission and reduces flare.
WR - weather resistant
1. Extra long aperture lever protection flanges. I have a Sigma lens with one of these. In order to mount it on a DSLR the flange needs to be cut back to avoid damage to the inside of the camera.
2. The infamous Ricoh pin. This is a pin used on some lenses for I forget what, but it's in exactly the same place as the screw-drive AF on SLRS and can lead to the lens being locked onto the camera and requiring a technician to remove it.
Neither of these is very common and never appear of Pentax-made lenses.
Be aware that there are cheaper options to the Katzeye. Some people like them, some complain. I decided to skip the risk and go for what I understand is the best. Katzeyes need to be ordered direct, unless you can find one second hand, which is rare.
Lens series:
K - first fully manual series. Metal.
M - later fully manual series, functionally identical to K. Metal.
A - Auto aperture. Aperture can be controlled from the camera body, allowing various auto exposure modes, Made of plastic, but quite strong.
F - first auto-focus lenses. Made of plastic but far lower build quality than older lenses.
FA - newer AF, functionally identical to F
DA - As FA but for digital therefore may not cover the image circle of film.
DFA - Updated FA. Covers image circle of film.
Other abbreviations:
SMC - Super-Multi-Coating, increases contrast and light transmission and reduces flare.
WR - weather resistant
Pentax hybrid user - Digital K3, film 645 and 35mm SLR and Pentax (&other) lenses adapted to Fuji X and Panasonic L digital
Fan of DA limited and old manual lenses
Fan of DA limited and old manual lenses
Posted 12/01/2013 - 19:58
Link
ocatoro wrote:
what does a katzeye actually do? is being unable to focus properly more to do with your eyesight and less to do with the lens?
i have pretty crap eyesight but i don't struggle to focus manually
It gives the "old fashioned" split semi circles in the centre of the screen. These are out of line until the image is in focus.what does a katzeye actually do? is being unable to focus properly more to do with your eyesight and less to do with the lens?
i have pretty crap eyesight but i don't struggle to focus manually
The one accessory I'd really love...when I get the money.
Getting there! Thanks to you guys
Pentax K3ii, Pentax K10d, Kit lens ( 18-55mm ), 50mm f1.7 lens, Tamron 70-300mm lens, Prinzflex 70-162 manual lens, Various old flashes.
Pentax K3ii, Pentax K10d, Kit lens ( 18-55mm ), 50mm f1.7 lens, Tamron 70-300mm lens, Prinzflex 70-162 manual lens, Various old flashes.
Posted 12/01/2013 - 20:06
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aaah i know. like on a film slr. that's pretty neat actually.
Posted 13/01/2013 - 00:40
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RalphHardwick wrote:
Are there any K mount lenses that won't work with the K5?
All Pentax K mount lenses will fit and work with any Pentax DSLR. Some (old) third party K-mount lenses might not mount - one or two Vivitars and possibly others - and one or two will mount but jam and be difficult to remove - Rikenon 'P' program lenses, for example. It's as well to Google any non-Pentax K mount lenses and see what is known about them before buying.Are there any K mount lenses that won't work with the K5?
Andrew
Posted 13/01/2013 - 01:13
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One post removed, please remember that PU is for Pentax images only. Many thanks.
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7677 posts
18 years
Hertfordshire,
mostly.
Obviously, as everyone has said, there is a lot of variability, but there are some gems: the SMC Tak 50mm f/1.4, the K28/3.5 and K135/2.5, the M100/2.8 and M85/2... I have a big liking for the K series lenses and have about a dozen of them. I regret having to pass on the mint condition K1000/8 recently but sometimes reality takes precedence over photography.
Best wishes, Kris.
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.