Which 50mm Lens?

ElySimon
Posted 12/08/2008 - 09:33 Link
Hi all, I'm new here (please be gentle!)

I am looking for a lens that will allow me to take some nice portrait shots indoors with relying on the flash so much and a fast 50mm lens seems at first to be a sensible option, is it?

There is a choice of course..

M 50MM F1.4 - £50 Used
M 50MM F1.2 - £?? Used
M 50MM F1.7 - £30 Used
FA 50MM F1.4 Lens - £150 New (SRS)

Is it simple as that or am I barking up the wrong tree all together?

Any advice will be appreciated

Simon
K10D, MZ-6 & K1000
50 A F1.4, 35-80 F 4-5.6, 18-35 FA 4.5-5.6, 28-80 F 3.5-4.5 Macro, 28-80 F 3.5-4.5, 80-320 FA 4.5-5.6 and 18-55 DA 4.5-5.6
Edited by ElySimon: 12/08/2008 - 09:34
ChrisA
Posted 12/08/2008 - 09:48 Link
Welcome!

What camera are you planning to use the lens on?

There are also the A-Series 50s, the commonest being the F2 and F1.7, though there's also the F1.4, and, I believe, the extremely rare F1.2.

Indeed there's lots of lens info here.

Possibly more than you wanted!

But it would be best if you told us what camera you're using first, and then advice will be easier to give.
.
Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
.
Edited by ChrisA: 12/08/2008 - 09:52
Mannesty
Posted 12/08/2008 - 10:20 Link
Personally, I'd forget the M series lenses if you have a Pentax DSLR other than the *istD or *istDS.

For lenses that should last you a lifetime, barring accident or other misfortune, stick to the SMCP-A series for manual focus, SMCP-F or FA for auto focus.

An SMCP-A 50mm 1:1.7 would be a good one to start with. The SMCP-FA 50mm 1:1.4 is a dream and is my best recommendation depending on your budget.

You maybe just missed a bargain 43mm Limited lens from JohnMcD for £165. He's the guy with a faulty camera, so he's selling off all of his expensive lenses .
Peter E Smith - flickr Photostream
Edited by Mannesty: 12/08/2008 - 10:21
ElySimon
Posted 12/08/2008 - 10:54 Link
Sorry for my lack of info, I got a bit carried away!

Primarily the lens will be used on K10D, but if I could use it on ether of my Manuals SLR's (MZ-7 & K1000) it would be nice!

Thanks for your rapid responses - there is plenty of reading to be done!
K10D, MZ-6 & K1000
50 A F1.4, 35-80 F 4-5.6, 18-35 FA 4.5-5.6, 28-80 F 3.5-4.5 Macro, 28-80 F 3.5-4.5, 80-320 FA 4.5-5.6 and 18-55 DA 4.5-5.6
ChrisA
Posted 12/08/2008 - 11:40 Link
ElySimon wrote:
Primarily the lens will be used on K10D
Definitely forget K or M series lenses then. Get A-series or later, and if the lens has an aperture ring, set it to 'A' and on the K10D, set the aperture from the body.
.
Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
.
ElySimon
Posted 12/08/2008 - 14:05 Link
Thanks for your advice, it is very appreciated - It was my intention from the start to go for a newer lens - but I had read favourable things about older lenses.

I am not the most experienced Pentax user around, so could you explain to me why a M series lens wouldn't be advisable? I have read that they fit my cameras (link) but are there some performance issues?

Thanks Again

Simon
K10D, MZ-6 & K1000
50 A F1.4, 35-80 F 4-5.6, 18-35 FA 4.5-5.6, 28-80 F 3.5-4.5 Macro, 28-80 F 3.5-4.5, 80-320 FA 4.5-5.6 and 18-55 DA 4.5-5.6
Edited by ElySimon: 12/08/2008 - 14:06
George Lazarette
Posted 12/08/2008 - 14:32 Link
Be aware that the SMCP-A 1:1.7 has a badly designed mount for the spring in the aperture ring, and these can, and do, fail.

I have owned three of these lenses, and one has failed. There have been many other examples, though I don't think the general failure ratio is anything like as bad as my experience.

G
Keywords: Charming, polite, and generally agreeable.
ChrisA
Posted 12/08/2008 - 15:09 Link
ElySimon wrote:
I am not the most experienced Pentax user around, so could you explain to me why a M series lens wouldn't be advisable? I have read that they fit my cameras
They fit perfectly well physically, and if you want to do your own exposure calculations and use the camera in manual mode they're fine.

But on the K10D give they rise to exposure errors at any aperture other than wide open for a given lens.

This is because the camera has no way of knowing what the aperture ring is set to, on a lens old enough to have one.

So to take a meter reading with the aperture set to anything except wide open, it has to stop the lens down, meter the light, and then set an appropriate shutter speed for whatever the aperture happens to be. For reasons no one ever seems to have got to the bottom of, it overexposes, and the smaller the aperture, the more it overexposes.

If you search the forum for "stop down metering" you'll find a number of threads discussing this.

There are no such issues with A-series lenses (set to A) or later, since the camera can set the lens' aperture itself, without relying on the aperture ring. Therefore all metering is done with the lens wide open.
.
Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
.
iceblinker
Posted 12/08/2008 - 15:18 Link
ElySimon wrote:
could you explain to me why a M series lens wouldn't be advisable?
They fit the K10D and are optically good, but they can hardly be used with the camera's automatic and semi-auto exposure modes, nor even used reliably with the manual mode without some extra hassle or luck. This is to do with the lack of communication between the lens and the camera, and design issues with the camera.

Some of the M and K lenses are worth buying for your camera because there are no cheap modern equivalents of the same speed and quality. M 100mm F2.8 and K SMC 135mm F2.8 are a couple of examples.

But since the A 50mm 1.7 is so common, good and fairly cheap, there is not much point in getting an M 50mm to use with a modern camera at all.
~Pete
Edited by iceblinker: 12/08/2008 - 15:20
ElySimon
Posted 12/08/2008 - 15:23 Link
Thanks ChrisA, that makes sense!

Although I use the camera on manual mode, I rely on the light meter within the camera (I do have a hand held light meter - not a very good one though!) So a M lens sounds like it will cause me problems!

Thanks for all your help, I will let all you know how I get on with some images from my forthcoming holiday!

Cheers all

Simon
K10D, MZ-6 & K1000
50 A F1.4, 35-80 F 4-5.6, 18-35 FA 4.5-5.6, 28-80 F 3.5-4.5 Macro, 28-80 F 3.5-4.5, 80-320 FA 4.5-5.6 and 18-55 DA 4.5-5.6
beachboy2
Posted 12/08/2008 - 15:24 Link
There's only one to get. The Bigma!
(Sigma 50-500mm zoom)
cheers
bb2

K5, K20D, Bigma, Sigma EX 105, Sigma EX 10-20, Sigma EX 28-70 F2.8, Sigma Ex 1.4TC,
Pentax 135 F3.5, Pentax 30mm F2.8 , Pentax 50mm F1.7, Pentax 55mm F1.8,
Super Taks: 35mm F3.5, 50mm F1.4, 135mm F3.5, 200mm F4
Vivitar TX 200mm F3.5,Vivitar (Komine)135mm f2.8, Vivitar 2X TC, Vivitar T4 400mm F6.3
Tamron SP 35-80,80-210 F3.8, Helios 44M, Mir 1B 37mm F2.8, Jupiter 9 85mm F2, Chinon 28mm F2.8, 3M-5A 500mm F8 etc etc
Transit
Posted 16/08/2008 - 00:52 Link
ElySimon wrote:
Thanks ChrisA, that makes sense!

Although I use the camera on manual mode, I rely on the light meter within the camera (I do have a hand held light meter - not a very good one though!) So a M lens sounds like it will cause me problems!

Thanks for all your help, I will let all you know how I get on with some images from my forthcoming holiday!

Cheers all

Simon
Its not all black and white
I have learnt a lot using M lens with the K100D

Just got my first A lens, a 50mmf1.7
Must admit it is great to stick it in Av and control aperture from the body
cheers
Pete
K-1 K-01 Q-7
some len

Close to the Edge
Down by the River
ChrisA
Posted 16/08/2008 - 07:53 Link
Transit wrote:
Its not all black and white
I have learnt a lot using M lens with the K100D
My understanding is that the K100D doesn't suffer the same stop-down metering issues that the K10D does.

I don't have one, though, so I can't confirm this.

Even on the K10D, if you meter with the lens wide open, and then calculate the shutter speed yourself for some other aperture you set with the aperture ring, it'll be fine.

Just less convenient, as you say.
.
Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
.
George Lazarette
Posted 16/08/2008 - 09:45 Link
Those of us who remember cameras which didn't have coupled exposure meters do not find M lenses too difficult to use, though in fast-moving situations the A lenses are obviously advantageous.

If you are shooting in a studio, where you are in manual mode anyway, there is no disadvantage to K or M lenses at all.

KEH are currently selling an M 100 2.8 for $119.00.

G
Keywords: Charming, polite, and generally agreeable.
Edited by George Lazarette: 16/08/2008 - 09:55
George Lazarette
Posted 16/08/2008 - 09:57 Link
Having just re-read your original post, I am reminded that you are talking about a lens for indoor portraits.

In this situation, use manual flash and a manual K or M lens. Simple.

G
Keywords: Charming, polite, and generally agreeable.

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