Using Af 360 fgz as fill flash

Hi guys,

Have recently purchased the flash unit for use on my *istD and was very disappointed with results, and the manual.
However, i think i saw a glimmer of hope on here and if you will bear with me.

I will mainly be using the flash as a fill flash for photographing models on location shoots, and possibly weddings if i get some!
The lens i use most is a sigma 28 - 200 DL hyperzoom macro f3.5 to 5.6.

The method i use is to take a contrast light reading using the cameras meter, and i mostly fill the frame with the model and a small amount of background so the meter gets some averaging. I transfer that to a manual setting and i prefer to use aperture 5.6 as it gives a good blurring effect etc. I also set the flash to be -.5. and the aperture on the flash to f5.6, iso is 200.

As per the manual i set the Sync mode switch to leading shutter- curtain sync.
On occasions the flash would work correctly other times it completely washed out the model. I have upgraded firmware before.

So my question is how do i make this flash do what i have described all the time so i can trust its exposure. ( is the clue in another answer, set the sync mode to high speed?).

When I was doing weddings I used to set the aperture (let the shutter speed take care of itself providibg you are within bounds for synch and camera shake) and then set the flash for two stops under-exposure.

All this was done manually, and it gave just enough fill-in without it being overdone.

Rick,

First of all, you definitely need version 1.12 of the firmware for the *ist-D - made a huge difference to the reliability of the flash. If you haven't got 1.12, you must do that first.

You didn't mention in your post what mode the flash was set to

You should be able to use P-TTL mode. Set the flash to High Speed Sync if you are outside (it will revert to normal if high speed isn't needed, but don't forget the guide number will be lower). Use the exposure compensation on the flash, and set it to -0.5 or -1.0eV so the flash isn't so obvious.

Additionally, put the flash to 45 degrees, and flip out the bounce card. That further softens the flash and provides a nice catch light in the eyes. (I also use an Omnibounce for the AF360 which softens even further.)

Then just use "P" mode on the camera. Use the thumb and finger wheels to adjust Av and Tv as needed, and the two will take care of the exposure. If you're just doing portraits you can't go far wrong with that.

In fact, even if you used fully manual on the camera, the flash can still function in P-TTL mode (amazing but true!). I have used this as an experiment in a difficult lighting situation where I used spot metering and set an exposure for a very dark room which had sunlight streaming in. The AF360 did an admirable job!

Best thing is to experiment with the auto modes, then drop down to fully manual if you absolutely have to (or you want a nostalgia trip )

Hope that helps,
Matt

Thanks John and Matt.
Sounds like my error was not setting to Hi speed sync mode, i will put it to the test using that info soon as i can and will let you know if i still have problems.

Matt i do have 1.12 i upgraded as soon as it was out.

My MO is to set aperture priority to say 5.6 on a normal sunny day, have the reflector ( if using one) bounced on the subject and take a contrast reading thru the cameras meter. I transfer that to the manual settings, and set the flash to - .5 stop. Seems to work a treat specially if the model has olive skin.

With the *istD it seems i cant use the flash on ttl mode, but then the manual is pretty average to read.

Rick

Rick,
Is there anything wrong with P-TTL? This mode fires a preflash, meters through the lens, then adjusts the flash settings based on the exposure before firing the real flash.

Maybe my original post wasn't clear, so let me rephrase my suggestion.
* Put the AF360 into "P-TTL" mode
* Switch the AF360 to High Speed Sync
* Put the *ist-D into "P" mode

Just give it a try before using your manual MO.

Matt