TTL on a K5


malcolmk

Link Posted 27/10/2010 - 16:40
I have just taken a massive jump from last century photography to a K5 and loving it. So easy to use!

However I have been trying out old accessories, in particular a 280T, a 400T and an AF080C (ring) flash. A scan of the K5 PDF manual which was posted yesterday reveals no reference to TTL except in a historical context and my experiments with the old flashes in TTL mode gave mixed results, not as accurately exposed as I would have hoped. All has been well on the TTL equipped LX.

So am I right in thinking these old units are only going to be reliable in manual mode or have I missed something? If not I suppose I will have to get new kit, I think I've forgotten how to calculate from guide numbers.

Anvh

Link Posted 27/10/2010 - 16:46
Auto mode on the flash is also an option if the flash has it.
Stefan


K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ

Don

Link Posted 27/10/2010 - 16:50
malcolmk wrote:
I have just taken a massive jump from last century photography to a K5 and loving it. So easy to use!

However I have been trying out old accessories, in particular a 280T, a 400T and an AF080C (ring) flash. A scan of the K5 PDF manual which was posted yesterday reveals no reference to TTL except in a historical context and my experiments with the old flashes in TTL mode gave mixed results, not as accurately exposed as I would have hoped. All has been well on the TTL equipped LX.

So am I right in thinking these old units are only going to be reliable in manual mode or have I missed something? If not I suppose I will have to get new kit, I think I've forgotten how to calculate from guide numbers.

tt-l flash does not work with anything past the Istd and ds2 you need p-ttl for newer cameras.

I have the same ringflash, and here is how I use it: manual mode.
an easy method is to set it to manual, choose your aperture and shutter, and adjust the iso off one of the dials on my k10 to tune the exposure. 1/4 power works for most subjects.
Fired many shots. Didn't kill anything.
Last Edited by Don on 27/10/2010 - 16:51

malcolmk

Link Posted 27/10/2010 - 16:51
You are very quick. The ring flash is TTL or Manual only which was the subject of most of yesterday's experimentation. However the other two are TTL, Auto or Manual. I'll give up on the ring - pity a new one is so expensive - and see if I can improve things with the Auto setting which is available on the other two.

Many thanks.

malcolmk

Link Posted 27/10/2010 - 16:58
Quote:
tt-l flash does not work with anything past the Istd and ds2 you need p-ttl for newer cameras.

I have the same ringflash, and here is how I use it: manual mode.
an easy method is to set it to manual, choose your aperture and shutter, and adjust the iso off one of the dials on my k10 to tune the exposure. 1/4 power works for most subjects.

Ahh, thanks for that. I was pretty sure they had all worked when I tried them on an *ist D.

I had a lot of totally washed out shots with the ring yesterday. I have in the past used it with Macro and 1:1 but that failed miserably with the K5. I'll give it another chance. Thanks for the tips, I have drifted away from serious photography over the last ten years; used to know things inside out and now I feel like a beginner all over again.

Don

Link Posted 27/10/2010 - 17:04
malcolmk wrote:
Quote:
tt-l flash does not work with anything past the Istd and ds2 you need p-ttl for newer cameras.

I have the same ringflash, and here is how I use it: manual mode.
an easy method is to set it to manual, choose your aperture and shutter, and adjust the iso off one of the dials on my k10 to tune the exposure. 1/4 power works for most subjects.

Ahh, thanks for that. I was pretty sure they had all worked when I tried them on an *ist D.

I had a lot of totally washed out shots with the ring yesterday. I have in the past used it with Macro and 1:1 but that failed miserably with the K5. I'll give it another chance. Thanks for the tips, I have drifted away from serious photography over the last ten years; used to know things inside out and now I feel like a beginner all over again.

try it the way I suggested.
iso 200, 1/4 power, f10, 1/160 sec. test shot, then adjust your aperture and check your histogram, from there it will be easy to adjust the iso dial to tune the exposure.

manual is not that hard.... it isn't like you gotta mail out some slides and wait for them to be processed and shipped back! lol!

on days when I'm editing video on one mac, I got the browser open on another mac and pop in quite often.... maybe too often... what do you think Stephan?
Fired many shots. Didn't kill anything.
Last Edited by Don on 27/10/2010 - 17:07

Helpful

malcolmk

Link Posted 27/10/2010 - 18:49
Don wrote:

try it the way I suggested.
iso 200, 1/4 power, f10, 1/160 sec. test shot, then adjust your aperture and check your histogram, from there it will be easy to adjust the iso dial to tune the exposure.

manual is not that hard.... it isn't like you gotta mail out some slides and wait for them to be processed and shipped back! lol!

on days when I'm editing video on one mac, I got the browser open on another mac and pop in quite often.... maybe too often... what do you think Stephan?

I will try your settings as a starting point and see where the histogram goes. Thanks.

Actually my "Quick" comment was aimed at Stefan, but in the short time it took to send my post you were there too. I promise to use the Quote button in future.

malcolmk

Link Posted 27/10/2010 - 19:31
Don wrote:
try it the way I suggested.
iso 200, 1/4 power, f10, 1/160 sec. test shot, then adjust your aperture and check your histogram, from there it will be easy to adjust the iso dial to tune the exposure.

manual is not that hard.... it isn't like you gotta mail out some slides and wait for them to be processed and shipped back! lol!

I bought a 35mm Limited with my K5, I thought the Macro might be useful but I remembered enough about optics to know that it would have to get very close for 1:1. I didn't realise quite how close! So I was pushing my luck with the ring flash. Your settings got me in the right ball park.

Dropping to ISO 80, F22 and full use of EV compensation things were just about right. A 4x ND should give some added flexibility. That will be a lot cheaper than a new flash unit.

Thank you very much. If it is not going too far OT I'll mention that this new camera is an absolute joy to use, all the settings are so easily accessible. Last time I tried to use a (very early) digital SLR seriously it was such a pain to set up that I tended to use it in point and shoot mode. The K5 is going to make me enjoy photography again; not sure my wallet will feel the same.

Anvh

Link Posted 27/10/2010 - 19:39
malcolmk wrote:
Dropping to ISO 80, F22 and full use of EV compensation things were just about right. A 4x ND should give some added flexibility. That will be a lot cheaper than a new flash unit.

Can't you lower the flash power?
Stefan


K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ

Don

Link Posted 27/10/2010 - 21:27
it goes to 1/4 power which with my 100mm macro, is in the range I mentioned earlier.... so I'm guessing the 100 loses way more light at min focus?
Fired many shots. Didn't kill anything.
Last Edited by Don on 27/10/2010 - 21:27

Anvh

Link Posted 27/10/2010 - 21:40
Ah okay thank you Don.

Probably the distance from the front element to subject with the 100 is twice as much as with the 35 so... you probably lose half the light compared to the 35?
Stefan


K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ

Don

Link Posted 27/10/2010 - 21:50
Anvh wrote:
Ah okay thank you Don.

Probably the distance from the front element to subject with the 100 is twice as much as with the 35 so... you probably lose half the light compared to the 35?

there is that, also light loss from the fact that true macros effectively have the extension tubes built in and lose some additional light at close focus..... so the 100 would would in fact need more power than the 35... for both reasons.
Fired many shots. Didn't kill anything.
Last Edited by Don on 27/10/2010 - 21:52

malcolmk

Link Posted 27/10/2010 - 22:22
Anvh wrote:
Can't you lower the flash power?

As Don says, you can drop it to quarter power but for 1:1 the 35mm is only a few centimetres from the subject and light has this terrible tendency to follow the inverse square law.

100mm is much more suitable for Macro work, but at least I now know how to make the best of what I have. thank you both.
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