stofen with AF360fgz
Posted 20/06/2013 - 11:50 - Helpful Comment
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Try bubble wrap or a piece of thin white paper or grease proof paper wraped over the flash before spending your hard earned £££'s.
You could also try rear curtain sync with a slower shutter, this will add some ambient light to the scene and the flash duration (min of 1/4000 sec IIRC) should minimise movement (as long as the group aren't running around the room
A fast shutter with flash is not always the best option
You could also try rear curtain sync with a slower shutter, this will add some ambient light to the scene and the flash duration (min of 1/4000 sec IIRC) should minimise movement (as long as the group aren't running around the room
A fast shutter with flash is not always the best option
Cheers
Brian.
LBA is good for you, a Lens a day helps you work, rest and play.
Brian.
LBA is good for you, a Lens a day helps you work, rest and play.
Posted 20/06/2013 - 12:13 - Helpful Comment
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You must have a high ceiling if bouncing doesn't provide enough light. Make sure it's on full power setting. Are you actually using the onboard flash to trigger? Is there no wireless control on the Kx?
If you want to reduse the impact of the onboard flash, set it to the lowest power (-2.0?) or put a baffle in front of it.
I haven't tried those Stofen things but I can't see how they can be effective. You need to increase the size of the source of light.
One of those ebay mini-softboxes would be better, although still not great. A tupperware box lined with white paper and a hole cut for the flash head works OK too! Howabout an umbrella? Effective, and cheap.
All these methods will still reduce the flash brightness though. Which takes me back to my first point. Increase the power of the flashgun to max. Reduce the power of the onboard flash, if used as a controller. Raise your ISO if needed. With a Kx, you should be fine.
If you want to reduse the impact of the onboard flash, set it to the lowest power (-2.0?) or put a baffle in front of it.
I haven't tried those Stofen things but I can't see how they can be effective. You need to increase the size of the source of light.
One of those ebay mini-softboxes would be better, although still not great. A tupperware box lined with white paper and a hole cut for the flash head works OK too! Howabout an umbrella? Effective, and cheap.
All these methods will still reduce the flash brightness though. Which takes me back to my first point. Increase the power of the flashgun to max. Reduce the power of the onboard flash, if used as a controller. Raise your ISO if needed. With a Kx, you should be fine.
[link=https://500px.com/will_brealey/[/link]
Posted 20/06/2013 - 15:23 - Helpful Comment
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A Lumiquest Softbox will give you a better light and wider coverage, but . . .
the Lumiquest is heavy enough to turn the flash head if you you have it attached to the camera in portrait orientation.
The Stofen Omnibounce will be OK though if the flash is close enough to your subject. It gives an even more diffuse light if you angle the flash head up at about 30-45 degrees.
the Lumiquest is heavy enough to turn the flash head if you you have it attached to the camera in portrait orientation.
The Stofen Omnibounce will be OK though if the flash is close enough to your subject. It gives an even more diffuse light if you angle the flash head up at about 30-45 degrees.
Peter E Smith - flickr Photostream
Posted 20/06/2013 - 16:33 - Helpful Comment
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I have a Stofen I use with the 360 flash and it works very well. I have 14 feet ceilings at home and very dark walls where it copes pretty well at 400 ISO, with 8 feet ceilings it is easily powerful enough to do what you want and it is wide enough to cope with a fisheye lens too. Nice light when on the camera hotshoe too. I must say I like the light quality from that flash with the head at ninety degrees and the catchlight panel extended.
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Posted 21/06/2013 - 09:51
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Thanks guys. I should have given a little more accurate info. Yes k-x is wirelessly triggering the external flash and I am using on camera flash as well. I think flash is set at full power but will double check. ISO at 400 already wouldn't want to push it much more as use significant crops.
One reason I was thinking stofen omnibounce is that it's a small thing ( as we are always taking photos at relatives houses not our own so need stuff that easily packs in car with all our other gear and doesn't look like we are setting up a studio in relies lounge) and also not really noticeable to nephew - who would be so fascinated by a brolly , large softbox or similar he would spend the time trying to play with it / study it / eat it
Unless 'running around the room' = exactly the speed that my 15 month nephew moves at even when mummy is trying to encourage him to sit still
I had tried the 'tissue paper' option but not bubble wrap, that's something I could look to try & some of the other DIY suggestions, thanks.
One reason I was thinking stofen omnibounce is that it's a small thing ( as we are always taking photos at relatives houses not our own so need stuff that easily packs in car with all our other gear and doesn't look like we are setting up a studio in relies lounge) and also not really noticeable to nephew - who would be so fascinated by a brolly , large softbox or similar he would spend the time trying to play with it / study it / eat it
Unless 'running around the room' = exactly the speed that my 15 month nephew moves at even when mummy is trying to encourage him to sit still
I had tried the 'tissue paper' option but not bubble wrap, that's something I could look to try & some of the other DIY suggestions, thanks.
Sharon's: K-x, FA35/2, DA 18-250.Glen's: K10D, DA100 Macro, 55-300, Paragon 500, Silk Pro700 Tripod
Posted 21/06/2013 - 10:04 - Helpful Comment
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Lambency difusser works for me in the club work. I get very little shadow cast with it. £9.99 delivered from ebay
PPG Wedding photography Flickr
Concert photography
Currently on a Pentax hiatus until an FF Pentax is released
Concert photography
Currently on a Pentax hiatus until an FF Pentax is released
Posted 21/06/2013 - 10:45 - Helpful Comment
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The Stofen is probably the quickest diffuser to attach & detach. The Lumiquest can be a bit of a nightmare because it's a reasonably sized lump of plastic origami which needs to be assembled, then velcroed to the flash.
Stofen would seem the best option for you I think.
Stofen would seem the best option for you I think.
Peter E Smith - flickr Photostream
Posted 21/06/2013 - 14:12 - Helpful Comment
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This the lambency diffuser i use for portraits
PPG Wedding photography Flickr
Concert photography
Currently on a Pentax hiatus until an FF Pentax is released
Concert photography
Currently on a Pentax hiatus until an FF Pentax is released
Posted 22/06/2013 - 10:20
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cabstar wrote:
Lambency difusser works for me in the club work. I get very little shadow cast with it. £9.99 delivered from ebay
Lambency difusser works for me in the club work. I get very little shadow cast with it. £9.99 delivered from ebay
Thanks for that & photo cabstar. I have located on ebay and looks interesting & cheaper than stofen.
I see you have flash head swivelled round in photo, not sure if that's how you shoot or just how it was put down?
I ask as I have read the stofen shouldn't be used at 90 deg straight forward without the light coming down from it causing the sensor on the flash unit to calibrate it incorrectly and underexposing?
So was wondering if the same applies to this? As 360 doesn't have swivel head.
Obviously could correct manually but would prefer to have PTTL for quick shots, will ask gartmore what he finds.
Sharon's: K-x, FA35/2, DA 18-250.Glen's: K10D, DA100 Macro, 55-300, Paragon 500, Silk Pro700 Tripod
Posted 22/06/2013 - 10:26
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gartmore wrote:
I have a Stofen I use with the 360 flash and it works very well. I have 14 feet ceilings at home and very dark walls where it copes pretty well at 400 ISO, with 8 feet ceilings it is easily powerful enough to do what you want and it is wide enough to cope with a fisheye lens too. Nice light when on the camera hotshoe too. I must say I like the light quality from that flash with the head at ninety degrees and the catchlight panel extended.
I have a Stofen I use with the 360 flash and it works very well. I have 14 feet ceilings at home and very dark walls where it copes pretty well at 400 ISO, with 8 feet ceilings it is easily powerful enough to do what you want and it is wide enough to cope with a fisheye lens too. Nice light when on the camera hotshoe too. I must say I like the light quality from that flash with the head at ninety degrees and the catchlight panel extended.
Thanks, yes, flash at 90 deg with catchlight was what I was using and agree light is nice, it's just the shadows.
I have seen online stofen must be used at angle up anyway otherwise the light from the bottom goes directly to the sensor on the flash and PTTL metering will underexpose.
Have you found that? I know I could correct manually but for quick kiddie shots it would be good to be able to rely on PTTL. I am wondering if a small piece of tape along the bottom of the stofen would overcome that.
Appreciate any thoughts.
Sharon's: K-x, FA35/2, DA 18-250.Glen's: K10D, DA100 Macro, 55-300, Paragon 500, Silk Pro700 Tripod
Posted 22/06/2013 - 11:24
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Eastridge wrote:
I have seen online stofen must be used at angle up anyway otherwise the light from the bottom goes directly to the sensor on the flash and PTTL metering will underexpose.
I have seen online stofen must be used at angle up anyway otherwise the light from the bottom goes directly to the sensor on the flash and PTTL metering will underexpose.
I would question the accuracy of that statement and would even venture to state that it is wrong.
As far as I am aware, when using P-TTL (as in TTL in the olden days), the camera does the flash metering and sets the flash accordingly.
I have taken plenty of shots with the Stofen fitted and the flash head pointing straight forward with no incorrect exposures.
Of course, if you have the flash set to A mode, that's a different matter and it is highly likely that the flash output will affect the flashes own metering.
Peter E Smith - flickr Photostream
Posted 22/06/2013 - 12:10 - Helpful Comment
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The flash in that mode is in portrait mode, lift the flash straight up for landscape modes, soits important to swivel the flash by 90 degrees first so you quickly swap from portrait to landscape.
PPG Wedding photography Flickr
Concert photography
Currently on a Pentax hiatus until an FF Pentax is released
Concert photography
Currently on a Pentax hiatus until an FF Pentax is released
Posted 22/06/2013 - 15:41 - Helpful Comment
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Eastridge wrote:
Thanks, yes, flash at 90 deg with catchlight was what I was using and agree light is nice, it's just the shadows.
I have seen online stofen must be used at angle up anyway otherwise the light from the bottom goes directly to the sensor on the flash and PTTL metering will underexpose.
Have you found that? I know I could correct manually but for quick kiddie shots it would be good to be able to rely on PTTL. I am wondering if a small piece of tape along the bottom of the stofen would overcome that.
Appreciate any thoughts.
gartmore wrote:
I have a Stofen I use with the 360 flash and it works very well. I have 14 feet ceilings at home and very dark walls where it copes pretty well at 400 ISO, with 8 feet ceilings it is easily powerful enough to do what you want and it is wide enough to cope with a fisheye lens too. Nice light when on the camera hotshoe too. I must say I like the light quality from that flash with the head at ninety degrees and the catchlight panel extended.
I have a Stofen I use with the 360 flash and it works very well. I have 14 feet ceilings at home and very dark walls where it copes pretty well at 400 ISO, with 8 feet ceilings it is easily powerful enough to do what you want and it is wide enough to cope with a fisheye lens too. Nice light when on the camera hotshoe too. I must say I like the light quality from that flash with the head at ninety degrees and the catchlight panel extended.
Thanks, yes, flash at 90 deg with catchlight was what I was using and agree light is nice, it's just the shadows.
I have seen online stofen must be used at angle up anyway otherwise the light from the bottom goes directly to the sensor on the flash and PTTL metering will underexpose.
Have you found that? I know I could correct manually but for quick kiddie shots it would be good to be able to rely on PTTL. I am wondering if a small piece of tape along the bottom of the stofen would overcome that.
Appreciate any thoughts.
i don't think that's true either, the brief instructions do say that the head should be a 45 degrees but I presume this is to bounce more of it off the ceiling. I have used it that way and straight on and can't see much difference.
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Posted 23/06/2013 - 09:36
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Thanks Guys, it's been very helpful.
Looks like stofen or lambency will do the job, I just need to decide myself if extra stofen convenience worth the extra dosh.
Looks like stofen or lambency will do the job, I just need to decide myself if extra stofen convenience worth the extra dosh.
Sharon's: K-x, FA35/2, DA 18-250.Glen's: K10D, DA100 Macro, 55-300, Paragon 500, Silk Pro700 Tripod
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278 posts
16 years
Bideford,
Devon
I am doing family portraits & group shots indoors and find best lighting level achieved by using on board flash to trigger the 360 on a separate tripod just to the side, with catchlight. Group usually includes a toddler unable to keep still to order so a fast shutter is essential hence good amount of light.
I bounce off ceiling where can but often that doesn't make it bright enough so sadly need to use it more directly giving harsh shadows that I then need to PP out.
I understand a sto-fen (or similar) would help reduce shadow effect and improve 'tone' of light. However am told it reduces brightness of flash by factor of 2.5. So not sure if it's light output will be much more than bouncing?
Any thoughts?