Some advice on camera settings for a raceday please

They're having a superbike test day at Donington Park next month and I'd like to go and take some photos. I have a Pentax K-r and a 70-300mm lens. I know the K-r has a specific SCN setting for fats sports but I'd like some advice on how to set up my K-r if I want to be a bit more hands-on. All advice gratefully accepted

Have I posted this in the wrong sub-forum?

No, it's in the right place.

There are some members here who take fantastic motor sport pictures, just wait until they are around

I accept that I won't get 100% hit rate and use a few shots to get my eye in with shutter speed etc. Work out what speed gives the best sense of movement without having to work too hard at panning.
So, you could go with Tv, set your shutter speed to say 1/125th and take it from there, increasing or decreasing speed depending on light and effect.

There are some on the bottom of this thread which show what happens when you get the shutter speed and panning wrong.
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/topic/more-from-the-yorkshire-rally-30770/p-0#c...

Richard, I assume the 70-300 is one of the value-for-money Sigma or Tamron lenses. I have some experience of the Tamron version, which can be fine for motorsport although the autofocus is a little slow to react. It was OK with slower-moving machinery (at historic events, for instance), but next to useless when faced with a grand prix car.


This was taken with a Tamron 70-300 at the Phillip Island Classic in 2011, with AF engaged at 1/500 (I don't mind high shutter speeds for head-on shots, when you're not trying to convey a sense of motion).



When I used the Tamron at Monza that same season, during the Italian GP weekend, I deleted my first 200 or so photos before resorting to manual focus (ie pre-selecting a spot and panning the car until it reached it), which worked a bit better (and also prevents the lens from 'hunting'). This is Jarno Trulli's Caterham at 1/100 through a fairly slow chicane.

Generally, when you compare like with like in hierarchical terms, bikes don't corner as quickly as cars, although Superbikes are spectacularly brisk by two-wheeled standards. Your best bet is simply to use trial and error. There is also the matter of clear sight lines. If you don't have a media tabard, you'll be the wrong side of a debris fence at most points around Donington Park (although you can get close enough to shoot through this at the chicane - from the paddock, walk through the infield tunnel and turn right). A useful alternative is to take the infield tunnel and turn left, towards Redgate and the Craner Curves. There is no debris fencing on the inside and you can take a nice pan shot as bikes sweep down the hill. They're pretty quick at this point, so I'd use shutter priority and start at about 1/250 (ISO 100 or 200 should be sufficient), then increase your ambition step by step. Try AF mode, but if that's inconsistent give MF a whirl. Father Ted suggested 1/125 and that's often my default starting point, but it doesn't work for every category, nor every location.

Enjoy the experience. I was at Donington Park only yesterday (to research a feature, rather than take photos) and the weather was appalling. I hope you have better fortune.

Thanks for the advice. I'm really looking forward to it.

Some excellent advise here, but if you've not practiced panning a lot, I think is worth adding - There is a definite knack to panning, so don't forget to grab a few higher speed shots (at least 1000s) during the day, preferably when they're under hard acceleration. That way you should get at least a few to remember the day with - It would be a shame to find none of your shots quite worked on a propper screen!
Even after years of practice most of my panning shots are not even worth showing to the kids.

That's a very valid point, Mike. Personally, I think high shutter speeds are most effective with head-on photos taken at a wide aperture (possibly only f6.3 in the case of Richard's 70-300), to reduce the depth of field and add a little blurry drama. At Donington Park, the chicane is probably the best spot for such shots (and should be accessible via the paddock tunnel, which some parts of the site aren't during ongoing restoration work).

This is from a test day at Brands Hatch last Sunday, when it was all but snowing and nobody remembered to switch on the light: 1/500, f4.5, 800 ISO.

Thanks for all the advice peeps. I shall try and remember at least some of it when I'm there

Hi,

Just thought I'd through this video in the mix too. Might be useful/interesting

Darren Heath – What it means to me

Do any of you use any form of support (tripod/monopod) when you're at these kind of events?

Pros tend to use a monopod to support their big, long-range (400-600mm) f2.8s, which are easier to lug around when thus equipped, but you shouldn't need one with a 70-300. I do see people using beefy monopods with smallish superzooms and that always perplexes me. I sometimes use one with a Sigma 150-500, but even then it's not really necessary and tends to serve mostly as a prop that allows me to balance the lens on my shoulder.

You'd only need a tripod if you were planning to take shots at a night event, to capture light trails at Le Mans for instance. You can't pan with a tripod (not in a practical sense, at least) and for the head-on stuff your shutter speeds (1/500 or faster) should suffice.

Good luck - and I hope the day goes well.

I occasionally use a monopod, but not usually. It can help with low light shots, but I find it gets in the way more than is useful.

Well I had quite a good day at Donington. Learnt quite a bit about camera handling. Didn't take any really good photos but I shall keep trying. Those bikes move quite quickly! There's a 750cc owners meet there soon. That might be more my speed. There were some VERY big lenses there!