Short Walk
For the second shot, not sure what lens you are using....but there is some pretty noticeable CA (chromatic abberation) aka purple fringing. Part of it is the quality of the lens, but part of it is the extreme contrast you have here. You have what might be blown highlights in the background which makes the CA apparent. The problem is you don't always have the luxury to move to a better spot with skittish wildlife! So you may have to live with some of that with a bright sky. Other than that it's not bad at all.....the bird is sharp and in focus (which you notice much more if you click on it the image twice for full size). It would be nice if there weren't branches blocking some of the view....but again, you get the shot you can first and then maybe try a different vantage point to change the obstacles/sky etc. Finally, while f8 is better than f11....and in this case there is not much movement to worry about....what the larger aperture setting will help with is relative quality of bokeh. You want a shallower DOF (depth of field) to emphasize the subject with a nicely blurred background. In this case with the white, you wouldn't notice a creamier bokeh as much, but with other backgrounds/colors....it makes a big difference.
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First of all, thanks for taking the time to look at my pictures and give me some suggestions. The lens I was using was the kit 55-300mm that came with my K-x.
For both shots I was using shutter priority - so I guess I underestimated the speed I would need for birds that are moving. Usually for things that might move, I try fixing the shutter speed and letting the aperture set itself. If I stick with that it sounds like I need to be a bit more proactive with the ISO settings to let me get better control of the aperture as well, or would I be better off fixing the aperture and tweaking the ISO to get the shutter speed that I want?
Full manual would obviously give me more control, but when walking about its a lot easier to have one or the other already set up.
To answer your very good question, you could do a lot of things. You have a zoom lens which has variable aperture range depending on focal length. It's 5.8 at the long end....which is invariably what you would use most for wildlife. So with that relatively slower glass you either need fairly bright conditions....or you need to compensate with your camera settings.
Just setting your aperture wider would make a huge difference. So, yes....you could use aperture priority and set it to, say 5.6, and see how that works for you. Then it would be a matter of available light to whether you need a higher ISO. The point with the ISO is that you CAN bump it higher regardless (when shooting wildlife) because of your K-x and the relatively low noise. That gives you extra flexibility to get faster shutter speeds no matter whether you set shutter or aperture as priority. Then that allows for any rapid movement being caught without blur. The caveat of course being how stable you are holding the camera. As I stated earlier, make sure you are using your IS for these shots even in bright conditions. It will make your photos sharper across the board.
As far as full manual....I always shoot that way. I want complete control, so I set the aperture, shutter, and ISO. And I think you will find in most cases when shooting wildlife that once you take a couple shots to zero in on the settings that work most effectively, unless the lighting changes dramatically....it will work that way for every shot.
Thanks again for the advice, I've now got a few things to try the next time I am out.
BTW, one other thing I noticed from your settings is in camera contrast set to +2. You might try experimenting with a lower setting to give a little more headroom for highlights.
SteveG
Member
Greylag Goose taking off
Robin
Any tips or suggestions for improvement welcome.