Screen/Mirror Dust Removal
Posted 18/10/2005 - 13:10
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Hi,
You can try blowing them off but I would not try anything harder than that especially on the screen. These are made of very soft plastic and easily damaged. If the mirror is really bad, you could a cotton tip moistened with a little lighter fuel but be very gentle or you will scratch it. Dust here will not affect picture quality so unless it affects you focussing the camera, I would leave it.
Kim
You can try blowing them off but I would not try anything harder than that especially on the screen. These are made of very soft plastic and easily damaged. If the mirror is really bad, you could a cotton tip moistened with a little lighter fuel but be very gentle or you will scratch it. Dust here will not affect picture quality so unless it affects you focussing the camera, I would leave it.
Kim
Posted 25/10/2005 - 21:27
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Pentax service manuals recommend that cleaning the mirror should be avoided unless it is very dirty.
If cleaning absolutely is neccesary, a mixture of alcohol and ether is specified. A soft cloth dipped in this mixture is lightly swabbed accross the mirror. I would think that a careful rinse with the same mixture would be required to remove any dissolved residue.
The alcohol used would need to be free of dissolved material, so methylated spirtit is out of the question, obtaining alcohol without such contaminants is impractical, if not impossible. (It can be got in 1/2 gallon bottles, but the duty levied would be horrendous, and you would need to contact customs and exise to be able to get it etc. I don't know the exact proceedure but basically unless you run a chemical lab, they assume you are going to drink it!) The same is true for ether.
I would leave well alone, but if you really need to clean it, you could try any of the following.
Nikon can provide a camera cleaning kit, primarily for cleaning CCD's in their digital cameras, but last time I looked the cost $80US, plus shipping.
Lens cleaning fluid might work, if you use a type which will evaporate without leavinf a residue.
If you can find a Hi-Fi dealer that specialises in audio tape, (And these are rare nowadays!) You might find that tape-head cleaner is suitable.
Whatever you do, make sure that you test it first. Very importantly, use only the absolute minimum force when wiping the mirror. You only want to stroke it with the swab. It is truly scary how easily the aluminium coating comes off. Removing anything really stuck will take a very long time.
I don't advise using lighter fluid for this. It's good for getting old grease and oil off, but it will leave a deposit.
Don't clean the focusing screen. Ever If you find a solvent strong enough to remove deposits, without rubbing, it will very likely dissolve the screen
Proffessionals camera repair people often won't clean either, unless they have an ultrasound bath, (Jewellers use these too!), and and vapour degreaser to remove the residue from the ultrasonic cleaner. This means that the mirror and screen have to be removed before cleaning. Unless they are designed to be replaced easily, this would cost a lot.
If cleaning absolutely is neccesary, a mixture of alcohol and ether is specified. A soft cloth dipped in this mixture is lightly swabbed accross the mirror. I would think that a careful rinse with the same mixture would be required to remove any dissolved residue.
The alcohol used would need to be free of dissolved material, so methylated spirtit is out of the question, obtaining alcohol without such contaminants is impractical, if not impossible. (It can be got in 1/2 gallon bottles, but the duty levied would be horrendous, and you would need to contact customs and exise to be able to get it etc. I don't know the exact proceedure but basically unless you run a chemical lab, they assume you are going to drink it!) The same is true for ether.
I would leave well alone, but if you really need to clean it, you could try any of the following.
Nikon can provide a camera cleaning kit, primarily for cleaning CCD's in their digital cameras, but last time I looked the cost $80US, plus shipping.
Lens cleaning fluid might work, if you use a type which will evaporate without leavinf a residue.
If you can find a Hi-Fi dealer that specialises in audio tape, (And these are rare nowadays!) You might find that tape-head cleaner is suitable.
Whatever you do, make sure that you test it first. Very importantly, use only the absolute minimum force when wiping the mirror. You only want to stroke it with the swab. It is truly scary how easily the aluminium coating comes off. Removing anything really stuck will take a very long time.
I don't advise using lighter fluid for this. It's good for getting old grease and oil off, but it will leave a deposit.
Don't clean the focusing screen. Ever If you find a solvent strong enough to remove deposits, without rubbing, it will very likely dissolve the screen
Proffessionals camera repair people often won't clean either, unless they have an ultrasound bath, (Jewellers use these too!), and and vapour degreaser to remove the residue from the ultrasonic cleaner. This means that the mirror and screen have to be removed before cleaning. Unless they are designed to be replaced easily, this would cost a lot.
Posted 25/10/2005 - 21:31
Link
Footnote: IPA wipes as advertised on one of the add inks on this page might do. Tape cleaners use isopropyl alcohol, and will remove most deposits.
Posted 08/12/2005 - 23:02
Link
You could try one of the kits advertised for cleaning the sensors on Digital SLRs - if it's safe for the sensor it should be safe for the focusing screen! I've had good results with this one http://www.visibledust.com/sensor_cleaning_products.html It has sterilised wipes and purified alcohol. I may be paranoid but I also wear a mask to stop me coughing or sneezing over the camera when I clean mine.
Posted 09/12/2005 - 05:44
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It's almost never necessary to clean the mirror - any marks may be annoying but they have no effect on the pictures.
I don't think we can assume that what is safe for a CCD would be safe for the screen - they are made from very different materials.
I don't think we can assume that what is safe for a CCD would be safe for the screen - they are made from very different materials.
Best regards, John
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20 posts
21 years
Brooklyn,
New York