Scops Owl
Posted 14/10/2009 - 21:33
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Posted 14/10/2009 - 21:36
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The images are great, but are still too green I am afraid.
Peter
My Flickr page
My Flickr page
Posted 14/10/2009 - 21:52
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I had a try in PS, used colour balanced and moved the magenta/green toward the magenta and the yellow/blue toward the blue. There may be a better way and I believe in Elements there is a fix it quick button.
You can get a good result using hew & saturation as well. good luck tomorrow.
You can get a good result using hew & saturation as well. good luck tomorrow.
Jackie H
K7, K20D, istDS, Optio SV, ME
Most used glass
50mm f1.4, 60-250mm, 28-80mm,
Sigma 105mm 2.8 Macro & Bertha 50-500
K7, K20D, istDS, Optio SV, ME
Most used glass
50mm f1.4, 60-250mm, 28-80mm,
Sigma 105mm 2.8 Macro & Bertha 50-500
Posted 14/10/2009 - 21:59
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They're better than they were though! I had a quick go at one of them and I must admit I don't quite get the same results as Martin. What I did, was: I opened the picture in PSE, went to Enhance - Adjust Lighting - Levels, clicked on the thingy (what's its name again?? :roll to set the white point, clicked a part that's supposed to be white in the picture and then OK. The result is very much like yours, which is still not quite right. I'm sure Martin will tell you exactly what he did if you ask him.
Dodging and burning are steps to take care of mistakes God made in establishing tonal relationships. - Ansel Adams -
Posted 14/10/2009 - 22:13
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Using elements I did the following:
Go to: Enhance (see top arrow)----->adjust colour------>remove colour cast.
Than...with the eyedropper click on a area that should be either black, grey or white. In the screen shot I marked the used area in that case.
Sometimes choosing a other colour works better.
HTH,
Posted 14/10/2009 - 22:17
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Hi Lidy,
Opening levels and setting the black and white point is the way to get a good closed down histogram without gaps and thereby optimizing the tonal values of a picture. But......It doesn't do anything to correct colour casts. It only makes the cast lighter or darker.
Opening levels and setting the black and white point is the way to get a good closed down histogram without gaps and thereby optimizing the tonal values of a picture. But......It doesn't do anything to correct colour casts. It only makes the cast lighter or darker.
Posted 14/10/2009 - 22:20
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Eyedropper .... that's the word I was looking for and had temporarily lost!
Thanks, Martin! I knew you'd come to the rescue! Tried the colour cast method and it works fine. Learnt something again.
Thanks, Martin! I knew you'd come to the rescue! Tried the colour cast method and it works fine. Learnt something again.
Dodging and burning are steps to take care of mistakes God made in establishing tonal relationships. - Ansel Adams -
Posted 15/10/2009 - 06:31
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Martin, Lidy, (everyone!), Many thanks. The remove colour cast control with the eyedropper was what I was using, although it didn't yield quite the same result as Martin managed (which is excellent). I am guessing that the artistry is in putting the eyedropper precisely onto a pixel which is definitively white, black, or grey. I think that when I did it previously, it yielded such a step change in the colour that it looked as if the pictures were fixed, although I can see now that there is still a bit of green in them. Having tried a couple of further times, the cast does change when I apply the eyedropper to different pixels which on the face of it appear to be white or black, but which are maybe not quite pure white or black (?), and that I get slightly different results when I pick a white area as opposed to a black. So I think I can see how I can 'properly' fix them, but I shall need to have a bit of a play to absolutely get to a final result which definitively removes the colour cast (when I get in from work tonight).
That said, this has been a really useful thread for me as I have (I hope - time will tell:shock learned a good deal from it from you guys, and I hope I shall ultimately end up with a non-colour-casted set of Owl photos!
Many thanks again
Mat
That said, this has been a really useful thread for me as I have (I hope - time will tell:shock learned a good deal from it from you guys, and I hope I shall ultimately end up with a non-colour-casted set of Owl photos!
Many thanks again
Mat
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107 posts
18 years
Finland
Tobio
K20d with Tamron AF 90mm f/2.8 Di SP macro , smc da 18-55 mm, smc da 50-200 mm and smc da 55-300 mm + Metz 58 af-1. Editing with Pentax Photolab, Gimp and Paint.net.