Pentax k100d and k110d?

hi, can any one tell me which model are the latest between k100d and k110d? thank you.

The K100D and K110D are identical except in one feature.

The K100D has shake reduction and the K110D does not.

This makes the K100D the better model overall and is now cheaper than the K110D at £299 with 18-55mm lens.

It used to be that the K110D was the cheaper entry model but I think production of both is ramping down.

hi, Tyr im the beginner and looking for a digital slr so which 1 you recommend?

I'd definitely say go with the K100D, if you don't like the shake reduction you can turn it off. If you got the K110D then you'd never have the option of shake reduction.

The K100D with 18-55 and the 50-200 would be my suggestion if you can afford a second lens. I hear the 50-200 is well worth the £150 price and is much better than the price would suggest. I should know tomorrow as that is when my new kit arrives

Pentax K100D + 18-55
Price: £298.00

Pentax K100D + 18-55 + 50-200
Price: £438.00

http://www.srsmicrosystems.co.uk/index3.asp?id=48&Page=2

Remember to get a good set of rechargeable AA NiMH batteries, 2000mAh or better and a 1GB or 2GB SD card at least. Two cards are always better as one might fail and then you'd be completely stuck.

hi, Tyr if i use a 1800mAh AA NiMH batteries have any problem because i have 8 batterys at the moment, battery will harm the camera? thank you.

No harm, you'll just get a shorter battery life. 1800mAh is still reasonable, much better then 1300, but you can get 2800mAh batteries nowadays.

I think that there are some rechargeable CRV3s that work with the K100D but most are not recommended because they are of too high a voltage. That is an other issue all together though, but disposable CRV3s in your bag would be a good idea in case you run out of power somewhere.

I ran my *istDL2 on 1700mAh batteries for a couple of weeks before getting some 2600's for it. The 2600s certainly last better, but the 1700s hold their own and are still better than using Alkalines.

thanks Mongoose can you tell me more about DSLR because im the beginner and just bought a K110D, what about the TV or AV function to take a slow or fast motion?

1 more question if i take the object too close to the lens what happen with the flash i mean will flash few time when i press the shuffle. it's that normal?

There could be a number of reasons:

Focus assist lamp mode on the flash attempting to light the subject for focusing.

You are below the minimum focus distance and the camera's focus system is attempting to increase contrast by lighting the subject.

You are blocking too much light from reaching the lens and the focus assist mode of the flash is active.


All really related to the same thing.

I am thinking about buying either a K100D or a K110D so that I can use my old K mount lenses.

Problem #1 is nobody appears to sell these as body only and I don't particularly want the 18 to 55mm zoom that is usually bundled. Seems a peculiar range to me - my old 28 to 70mm is lightweight and means that I rarely changed lenses.

Problem #2 is that I am less than clear about the shake reduction system on the K100D. Apparantly it needs to know the focal length of the lens. So how will this work with my old zoom lenses?

Is there a downside to the wobbly CCD shake reduction system? Is turning it off easy? Is turning it off the same as not having it? Why do some vendors charge more for the K110D than the K100D? Is shake reduction the only difference between them?

Sorry for the long posting, all comments gratefully received.

have you taken the 1.5x crop factor into account? the 18-55 on a digital behaves (more or less) like a 28-70 on film. Your 28-70 on a DSLR will have an angle of view equivalent to roughly 43-105.

when you turn the camera on with SR on and an old lens mounted, it presents you with a menu asking for the focal length. You enter the focal length and shoot away. This works great with primes, not so great with zooms since the FL changes.

yes, there is a little switch on the back to turn it on and off. No downside to having it that I am aware of, unless you ALWAYS use a tripod in which case it's just "one more thing to go wrong".
yes, except that if you don't have it you can't turn it on
Yes, SR is the only difference between them. Some vendors are trying to sell the 110 at more than the 100 because they have 110's left which they bought ages ago at a higher price. The 110 doesn't sell well because the 100 has never been much more expensive and has SR.

Gosh!

Thanks for the comprehensive response Mongoose.

As a digital SLR newbie I had foolishly assumed that lenses would work pretty much the same as far as focal length was concerned but I guess that the CCD is smaller than 35mm so your 1.5 ratio makes sense.

(Approximate 1.5 presumably because different manufacturers use different size CCDs - damn technology - I now need to re-calibrate my brain just because they are too mean to make 35mm CCDs)

I guess this means that my fisheye zoom will behave pretty strangely - all distortion and not so much angle - which is a bit unfortunate and scuppers my dream of simply re-using my beloved old K mounts.

I guess this goes a long way to explain why the vendors are pushing lenses with the bodies at entry level.

You read my mind with "one more thing to go wrong"

I have managed for a long time without SR (I like wide angles and rarely go tele) and the digital speed is a whole lot faster than Ektachrome so why would I need it? Especially when the 110 is now cheaper than the 100 - only 300 quid from Amazon - maybe if I wait a few months they will become even cheaper

Thanks again for the useful info.

Check out SRS Microsystems!

Refurbished units (K100D) can be had for less too from other vendors - saw them at £249.

Dan

the K100D with 18-55 is £298 from SRS microsystems.

Honestly I don't think there's a lot of point getting the K110D, even if the SR system on the 100 packs up, all it's going to do is stop working (the SR that is) and if you're using it as little as you think you will then you'll probably never notice.

One more think to bear in mind with K mount lenses, which you may or may not already have picked up, is that the DSLR's lack an aperture ring coupler. This means if you use lenses before the A series, you have to use them in stop down metering mode. This works pretty well on the *ist and K100/110, all you do is pick your aperture and hit a button to stop down the lens and take a reading. Still something to be aware of though.

SR is most useful at telephoto, but it has one or two other benefits. I was able to take wide angle shots of a waterfall at 1/4 of a second without a tripod this easter.

All depends upon your outlook on using a tripod I suppose, I hate the darned things so the fact that my K10D's SR system means I almost never need one is a major bonus.