Optical trigger !?
Posted 19/11/2009 - 14:56
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I would think so
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Posted 19/11/2009 - 16:08
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gartmore wrote:
I would think so
u don't sound too sure !? I would think so
Maybe I'll wait for the next comment
Stu - K10D | DFA 100/2.8 Macro | DA 55-300 | AF-360FGZ |
So much to learn... So little time !
Posted 19/11/2009 - 16:39
Link
I am sure! People have used them for decades before low trigger voltages were ever heard of. Honest!
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Posted 19/11/2009 - 16:42
Link
Most optical triggers use an SCR device, as far as I know.
There's always the possibility that it could fry the optical slave - but that's much, much cheaper than frying a body
There is also the Wein Safe Syncs that allow coupling for very high trigger voltages... but that'll probably be more than you want to pay.
http://www.weinproducts.com/safesyncs.htm
Personally, I'd try the optical one and risk frying it (though I'd say 75% chance it'll work fine).
Sorry can't help much more!
Matt
There's always the possibility that it could fry the optical slave - but that's much, much cheaper than frying a body
There is also the Wein Safe Syncs that allow coupling for very high trigger voltages... but that'll probably be more than you want to pay.
http://www.weinproducts.com/safesyncs.htm
Personally, I'd try the optical one and risk frying it (though I'd say 75% chance it'll work fine).
Sorry can't help much more!
Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)
(For gallery, tips and links)
Posted 19/11/2009 - 17:34
Link
I have been using a pair of Seagull SYK3 triggers for 3 years now with my old Vivitar 283 flashguns, trigger voltage measured at 270 volts, with no problem. In fact I have just increased my collection of this combination by 2 more sets to use as inexpensive studio strobes.
John
Posted 19/11/2009 - 17:37
Link
K10D wrote:
I built something similar to this for an old Elinchrome.
The TIC106D is the standard choice and readily available.
Another more flexible circuit
The Opto isolator is 100% safe.
Regards
Thanks for that, I like the sound activated one, might build that !?I built something similar to this for an old Elinchrome.
The TIC106D is the standard choice and readily available.
Another more flexible circuit
The Opto isolator is 100% safe.
Regards
Being an electronics engineer, I know what's inside them but as they're sealed I can't see which output device they use, so have no idea of the max operating voltage. Guess I'll just have to try it and see
Stu - K10D | DFA 100/2.8 Macro | DA 55-300 | AF-360FGZ |
So much to learn... So little time !
Posted 19/11/2009 - 17:41
Link
digikid-tv wrote:
I have been using a pair of Seagull SYK3 triggers for 3 years now with my old Vivitar 283 flashguns, trigger voltage measured at 270 volts, with no problem. In fact I have just increased my collection of this combination by 2 more sets to use as inexpensive studio strobes.
Just don't forget and pop it on your camera one day I have been using a pair of Seagull SYK3 triggers for 3 years now with my old Vivitar 283 flashguns, trigger voltage measured at 270 volts, with no problem. In fact I have just increased my collection of this combination by 2 more sets to use as inexpensive studio strobes.
Having said that our cameras use a similar (if not identical) circuit to these Opto switches, so should survive I'm not trying it out on mine though
Stu - K10D | DFA 100/2.8 Macro | DA 55-300 | AF-360FGZ |
So much to learn... So little time !
Posted 19/11/2009 - 17:44
Link
MattMatic wrote:
Most optical triggers use an SCR device, as far as I know.
There's always the possibility that it could fry the optical slave - but that's much, much cheaper than frying a body
Matt
As u say Matt ; safer than frying my K10 just wondered if anyone knew the rated voltage
Most optical triggers use an SCR device, as far as I know.
There's always the possibility that it could fry the optical slave - but that's much, much cheaper than frying a body
Matt
Stu - K10D | DFA 100/2.8 Macro | DA 55-300 | AF-360FGZ |
So much to learn... So little time !
Posted 19/11/2009 - 17:49
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stu49 wrote:
Having said that our cameras use a similar (if not identical) circuit to these Opto switches, so should survive I'm not trying it out on mine though
I have labelled all my old flashguns with the measured trigger voltage so that hopefully (senior moments permitting) this does not happen!
digikid-tv wrote:
I have been using a pair of Seagull SYK3 triggers for 3 years now with my old Vivitar 283 flashguns, trigger voltage measured at 270 volts, with no problem. In fact I have just increased my collection of this combination by 2 more sets to use as inexpensive studio strobes.
Just don't forget and pop it on your camera one day I have been using a pair of Seagull SYK3 triggers for 3 years now with my old Vivitar 283 flashguns, trigger voltage measured at 270 volts, with no problem. In fact I have just increased my collection of this combination by 2 more sets to use as inexpensive studio strobes.
Having said that our cameras use a similar (if not identical) circuit to these Opto switches, so should survive I'm not trying it out on mine though
John
Posted 19/11/2009 - 17:59
Link
digikid-tv wrote:
Just done the same stu49 wrote:
Having said that our cameras use a similar (if not identical) circuit to these Opto switches, so should survive I'm not trying it out on mine though
I have labelled all my old flashguns with the measured trigger voltage so that hopefully (senior moments permitting) this does not happen!digikid-tv wrote:
I have been using a pair of Seagull SYK3 triggers for 3 years now with my old Vivitar 283 flashguns, trigger voltage measured at 270 volts, with no problem. In fact I have just increased my collection of this combination by 2 more sets to use as inexpensive studio strobes.
Just don't forget and pop it on your camera one day I have been using a pair of Seagull SYK3 triggers for 3 years now with my old Vivitar 283 flashguns, trigger voltage measured at 270 volts, with no problem. In fact I have just increased my collection of this combination by 2 more sets to use as inexpensive studio strobes.
Having said that our cameras use a similar (if not identical) circuit to these Opto switches, so should survive I'm not trying it out on mine though
I know the 283/285 have manual settings, but what else is out there with at least 1/16. 1/4 and full options. Finding it difficult to find any manual flashes (CHEAP and probably old, of course). Don't need the fancy stuff (TTL, P-TTL, Auto, etc.), but so many on ebay don't give a reasonable description of what they can do, so I need to know the model numbers ! Hope u can help
Stu - K10D | DFA 100/2.8 Macro | DA 55-300 | AF-360FGZ |
So much to learn... So little time !
Posted 19/11/2009 - 18:15
Link
I setled on the Vivitar 283 as they are very cheap, plentiful and powerful.
They need the VP1 varipower module to operate in a fully variable mode, this plugs in in front of the flash in place of the sensor. The range available is from full power down to about -5.5 stops.
Unfortunately this module is rare and thus relatively expensive to buy nowadays. However it only contains a 100k ohm potentiometer, a series resistor of 3.9k ohms and a 200 picofarad capacitor and I have successfully modified two of my units by mounting these parts in a small plastic box mounted in place of the sensor.
I am abroad at the moment but could send more details when I get home next week.
They need the VP1 varipower module to operate in a fully variable mode, this plugs in in front of the flash in place of the sensor. The range available is from full power down to about -5.5 stops.
Unfortunately this module is rare and thus relatively expensive to buy nowadays. However it only contains a 100k ohm potentiometer, a series resistor of 3.9k ohms and a 200 picofarad capacitor and I have successfully modified two of my units by mounting these parts in a small plastic box mounted in place of the sensor.
I am abroad at the moment but could send more details when I get home next week.
John
Posted 19/11/2009 - 19:01
Link
digikid-tv wrote:
I setled on the Vivitar 283 as they are very cheap, plentiful and powerful.
They need the VP1 varipower module to operate in a fully variable mode, this plugs in in front of the flash in place of the sensor. The range available is from full power down to about -5.5 stops.
Unfortunately this module is rare and thus relatively expensive to buy nowadays. However it only contains a 100k ohm potentiometer, a series resistor of 3.9k ohms and a 200 picofarad capacitor and I have successfully modified two of my units by mounting these parts in a small plastic box mounted in place of the sensor.
I am abroad at the moment but could send more details when I get home next week.
Thanks for that, more details would be good
I setled on the Vivitar 283 as they are very cheap, plentiful and powerful.
They need the VP1 varipower module to operate in a fully variable mode, this plugs in in front of the flash in place of the sensor. The range available is from full power down to about -5.5 stops.
Unfortunately this module is rare and thus relatively expensive to buy nowadays. However it only contains a 100k ohm potentiometer, a series resistor of 3.9k ohms and a 200 picofarad capacitor and I have successfully modified two of my units by mounting these parts in a small plastic box mounted in place of the sensor.
I am abroad at the moment but could send more details when I get home next week.
Stu - K10D | DFA 100/2.8 Macro | DA 55-300 | AF-360FGZ |
So much to learn... So little time !
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385 posts
16 years
UK
Just bought a Hanimex TZ*2 and it outputs ~230 volts !! Wow !!
Stu - K10D | DFA 100/2.8 Macro | DA 55-300 | AF-360FGZ |
So much to learn... So little time !