Old Slides
Posted 13/02/2012 - 15:13
Link
Looks about right for a lovely day out in the Swiss Alps. All of first the ones I took in Austria had blue casts to them. The I bought a super UV filter, much better than sold in the UK at the time and they came out much much better.
Is the illumination a hot lamp. This can cause the slide to pop then refocusing would be needed.
But I suspect it is LED, if so they tend to be a very small point source which could tend to be concentrated in the middle. If the latter you may also need to change the wavelenght a bit as I understand LED light is very blue, so trying a UV filter between the LED and the slide might work.
regards
Bernard
Is the illumination a hot lamp. This can cause the slide to pop then refocusing would be needed.
But I suspect it is LED, if so they tend to be a very small point source which could tend to be concentrated in the middle. If the latter you may also need to change the wavelenght a bit as I understand LED light is very blue, so trying a UV filter between the LED and the slide might work.
regards
Bernard
Posted 13/02/2012 - 15:50
Link
Frogherder wrote:
Looks about right for a lovely day out in the Swiss Alps. All of first the ones I took in Austria had blue casts to them. The I bought a super UV filter, much better than sold in the UK at the time and they came out much much better.
Is the illumination a hot lamp. This can cause the slide to pop then refocusing would be needed.
But I suspect it is LED, if so they tend to be a very small point source which could tend to be concentrated in the middle. If the latter you may also need to change the wavelenght a bit as I understand LED light is very blue, so trying a UV filter between the LED and the slide might work.
regards
Bernard
Thanks for the reply. I'm sure you are right about the led light source, the scanner is powered by the usb port. I think my best course of action is:Looks about right for a lovely day out in the Swiss Alps. All of first the ones I took in Austria had blue casts to them. The I bought a super UV filter, much better than sold in the UK at the time and they came out much much better.
Is the illumination a hot lamp. This can cause the slide to pop then refocusing would be needed.
But I suspect it is LED, if so they tend to be a very small point source which could tend to be concentrated in the middle. If the latter you may also need to change the wavelenght a bit as I understand LED light is very blue, so trying a UV filter between the LED and the slide might work.
regards
Bernard
A) Dig out the slide projector from the loft and if its working sort the slides first, I doubt there will be as many to be kept as the time taken to scan them all
B) Dig out the light box from the loft....as above
Posted 13/02/2012 - 16:01
Link
Theres always the chance that the emulsion has changed colour a smidge. Certainly the ones I took on Ektachrome back in the 70's don't have the colours I think I remember and some in the vibrantly coloured Flower Market in Saltzburg are now distinctly muddy (unlikely I would have kept those if they'd been as bad as they are now.
I think it's likely down to how they've been stored. In my case in the cupboard under the stairs (dark, but not always the coolest part of the house as the oven in the kitchen backs onto it)
Bernard
I think it's likely down to how they've been stored. In my case in the cupboard under the stairs (dark, but not always the coolest part of the house as the oven in the kitchen backs onto it)
Bernard
Posted 13/02/2012 - 18:38
Link
You might find this link useful
http://thesybersite.com/minolta/slide-copying/index.htm
There's also a dust and scratch removal tool at the bottom of
the page that will work with Kodachrome. I've just downloaded
it and passed it through twenty virus scanners and it's
100% clean. It's an installer made by Polaroid.
Gregmoll has an article on this site somewhere about how to
set up a Pentax bellows for copying slides, but you need the
bellows and slide holder. I think he used a normal cold bulb
in a tin with a hole cutout for the light source.
http://thesybersite.com/minolta/slide-copying/index.htm
There's also a dust and scratch removal tool at the bottom of
the page that will work with Kodachrome. I've just downloaded
it and passed it through twenty virus scanners and it's
100% clean. It's an installer made by Polaroid.
Gregmoll has an article on this site somewhere about how to
set up a Pentax bellows for copying slides, but you need the
bellows and slide holder. I think he used a normal cold bulb
in a tin with a hole cutout for the light source.
Half Man... Half Pentax ... Half Cucumber
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Posted 13/02/2012 - 18:52
Link
I bought a cheapo slide scanner from Maplin when they opened locally (£19.95) and I'm pretty impressed. The biggest trouble is that the software is junk, won't work on XP Pro with the latest updates so I have to use an old laptop and make sure I don't update it by mistake. It might be better on Vista (that's not something you hear often) or Win7. The actual device is a webcam, so it's very quick to scan the image. You can set whether you're scanning colour negatives, slides or mono negatives, to cut out that last step of inverting negs.
I couldn't say I've noticed much trouble with the colour, but these are also very old slides, 25+years.
[IMG]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/hpfirenza/slides/2010-12-04_12.jpg[/IMG]
I couldn't say I've noticed much trouble with the colour, but these are also very old slides, 25+years.
[IMG]http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a149/hpfirenza/slides/2010-12-04_12.jpg[/IMG]
Real name: Mike Edwards. My homage to seventies Vauxhalls: www.firenza.net
Camera - Pentax Kx, 18-55 kit lens, 18-200 Sigma, 50-500 Sigma, 500mm Tamron mirror
Camera - Pentax Kx, 18-55 kit lens, 18-200 Sigma, 50-500 Sigma, 500mm Tamron mirror
Posted 14/02/2012 - 13:05
Link
The problem is that there are two fundemental types of 'scanner' on the market, and they work very differently and give totally different results.
The first is the cheaper type such as that mentioned above. These really should not be called scanners as they are not! They are (effectively) small cameras which take a photograph of your slide/negative. The quality will never be high as what you have effectively done is taken a picture witha 35 mm camera with a good lens then re-photographed it with something akin to a very cheap compact camera with a miniscule lens.
The second type are proper scanners. They scan the negative and, depending on the model and mode, will probably do a number of passes with differing levels of illumination to produce a high quality image. The downside is that rather than taking a few seconds per scan it may take a few minutes.
I use a Plustek - there are a few models but the main difference appears to be the software. They are not the most expensive (The Nikon scanner is around £3,000 but can scan in seconds) but not cheap either - around £200.
The alternative is to go for a specially designed flatbed scanner. I've heard that they can produce excellent results but take much more work to get right.
The first is the cheaper type such as that mentioned above. These really should not be called scanners as they are not! They are (effectively) small cameras which take a photograph of your slide/negative. The quality will never be high as what you have effectively done is taken a picture witha 35 mm camera with a good lens then re-photographed it with something akin to a very cheap compact camera with a miniscule lens.
The second type are proper scanners. They scan the negative and, depending on the model and mode, will probably do a number of passes with differing levels of illumination to produce a high quality image. The downside is that rather than taking a few seconds per scan it may take a few minutes.
I use a Plustek - there are a few models but the main difference appears to be the software. They are not the most expensive (The Nikon scanner is around £3,000 but can scan in seconds) but not cheap either - around £200.
The alternative is to go for a specially designed flatbed scanner. I've heard that they can produce excellent results but take much more work to get right.
Posted 14/02/2012 - 13:42
Link
The two scanners I've got... Nikon LS-30 and Olympus ES-10 are both very slow. Photographing the slides with the Pentax-M bellows and slide adapter is very quick. Using a K-5 with highlight and shadow protection would probably make life easier.
Half Man... Half Pentax ... Half Cucumber
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Pentax K-1 + K-5 and some other stuff
Algi
Posted 14/02/2012 - 18:25
Link
Yes, you are right, it is expensive. I am planning to rent one for a month to scan my slides.
Posted 14/02/2012 - 21:22
Link
I also use a Plustek scanner with Silverfast 8 software.
The software has a special setting for Kodachrome slides to automatically remove the strong blue cast.
The software is very sophisticated and you can make numerous tweaks before the final, multi pass scans are done.
Scanning is not particularly quick, whcih is not a problem for me as I am only planning to digitise selected slides.
The software has a special setting for Kodachrome slides to automatically remove the strong blue cast.
The software is very sophisticated and you can make numerous tweaks before the final, multi pass scans are done.
Scanning is not particularly quick, whcih is not a problem for me as I am only planning to digitise selected slides.
Hyram
Bodies: K20D (2), K10D, Super A, ME Super, Auto 110 SLR, X70, Optio P70
Pentax Glass: DA* 300, DA* 60-250, DA* 50-135, DA* 16-50, DA 70 Ltd, FA 31 Ltd, DA 35 Ltd, DA 18-55 (2), DA 12-24, DA 10-17, M 200, A 35-70, M 40, M 28, Converter-A 2X-S, 1.4X-S, AF 1.7, Pentax-110 50, Pentax-110 24
Other Glass: Sigma 105 macro, Sigma-A APO 75-300
Flash: Metz 58 AF-1 P, Pentax AF160FC ringflash, Pentax AF280T
Bodies: K20D (2), K10D, Super A, ME Super, Auto 110 SLR, X70, Optio P70
Pentax Glass: DA* 300, DA* 60-250, DA* 50-135, DA* 16-50, DA 70 Ltd, FA 31 Ltd, DA 35 Ltd, DA 18-55 (2), DA 12-24, DA 10-17, M 200, A 35-70, M 40, M 28, Converter-A 2X-S, 1.4X-S, AF 1.7, Pentax-110 50, Pentax-110 24
Other Glass: Sigma 105 macro, Sigma-A APO 75-300
Flash: Metz 58 AF-1 P, Pentax AF160FC ringflash, Pentax AF280T
Posted 14/02/2012 - 21:25
Link
Frogherder wrote:
....................as I understand LED light is very blue..............
LED lights can be at any colour temperature.
....................as I understand LED light is very blue..............
Hyram
Bodies: K20D (2), K10D, Super A, ME Super, Auto 110 SLR, X70, Optio P70
Pentax Glass: DA* 300, DA* 60-250, DA* 50-135, DA* 16-50, DA 70 Ltd, FA 31 Ltd, DA 35 Ltd, DA 18-55 (2), DA 12-24, DA 10-17, M 200, A 35-70, M 40, M 28, Converter-A 2X-S, 1.4X-S, AF 1.7, Pentax-110 50, Pentax-110 24
Other Glass: Sigma 105 macro, Sigma-A APO 75-300
Flash: Metz 58 AF-1 P, Pentax AF160FC ringflash, Pentax AF280T
Bodies: K20D (2), K10D, Super A, ME Super, Auto 110 SLR, X70, Optio P70
Pentax Glass: DA* 300, DA* 60-250, DA* 50-135, DA* 16-50, DA 70 Ltd, FA 31 Ltd, DA 35 Ltd, DA 18-55 (2), DA 12-24, DA 10-17, M 200, A 35-70, M 40, M 28, Converter-A 2X-S, 1.4X-S, AF 1.7, Pentax-110 50, Pentax-110 24
Other Glass: Sigma 105 macro, Sigma-A APO 75-300
Flash: Metz 58 AF-1 P, Pentax AF160FC ringflash, Pentax AF280T
Posted 14/02/2012 - 23:17
Link
Hyram wrote:
I do believe you are absolutely correct but I'd been told (and I've read it somewhere on this forum[I think it was Gartmore or Don - apologies to each if I'm mistaken]) that LED lighting is bluish and looks better (not necessarily more accurate) if a bit of warmth is added.Frogherder wrote:
....................as I understand LED light is very blue..............
LED lights can be at any colour temperature.....................as I understand LED light is very blue..............
It was with this understanding I was trying to suggest a reason for the blue cast on the slides
regards
Bernard
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4862 posts
15 years
Northumberland
A couple of samples:
[IMG]http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g406/tyronet2000/2012-02-13_12.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g406/tyronet2000/2012-02-13_9.jpg[/IMG]
Stan
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