Ok folks lets talk Filters...
Posted 12/11/2012 - 19:39
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My take on this, also speaking from past experience, is go straight for the best which IMHO is LEE..I initially bought Cokin, then Hitech and should really have just gone with Lee from day one.
The hard/soft grad decision can be a little confusing but with crop sensor DSLRs the graduation line on a hard grad is much less obvious than you might imagine, it's only really evident at very short focal lengths (10-14mm approx). 99% of the time I use either a 2 or 3 stop Hard NDgrad.
A polariser is a great filter to have with you as is a standard ND to reduce that shutter speed, although a polariser also does this by approx 2 stops.
Simon
The hard/soft grad decision can be a little confusing but with crop sensor DSLRs the graduation line on a hard grad is much less obvious than you might imagine, it's only really evident at very short focal lengths (10-14mm approx). 99% of the time I use either a 2 or 3 stop Hard NDgrad.
A polariser is a great filter to have with you as is a standard ND to reduce that shutter speed, although a polariser also does this by approx 2 stops.
Simon
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Posted 12/11/2012 - 19:43
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For serious landscape work the only really flexible enough type of filters are those known as a 'system' style. These come as square (ish) pieces of glass (with the exception of a circular polariser) that lot into a plastic frame - the frame screws into the lens filter thread and can usually hold 2 or 3 filters OK.
The budget choice would be Cokin, and then you have more expensive options from Lee Filters, B & W for example. The main consideration firstly is to check the filter thread size of you biggest lens (or the biggest you might plan on buying in future), as this will determine which size 'system' to invest in. Wide angles ( 77mm thread often) would demand the larger system in a range.
You buy a ring adaptor for each lens with a different filter size, and the adaptor screws onto the lens then the holder slips onto the adaptor ring.
Most systems rate their ND grads in 'stops' terms, indicating the equivilent light loss in stops of the shaded part. I think 1, 2, 5, stops is common and should cover most situations.
I'm sure others will provide more recent personal recommendations. I have not been using filters on the camera since starting to shot on Pentax Digital - I am finding I enjoy achieving the required effects in software, even using a software polarising filter.
The budget choice would be Cokin, and then you have more expensive options from Lee Filters, B & W for example. The main consideration firstly is to check the filter thread size of you biggest lens (or the biggest you might plan on buying in future), as this will determine which size 'system' to invest in. Wide angles ( 77mm thread often) would demand the larger system in a range.
You buy a ring adaptor for each lens with a different filter size, and the adaptor screws onto the lens then the holder slips onto the adaptor ring.
Most systems rate their ND grads in 'stops' terms, indicating the equivilent light loss in stops of the shaded part. I think 1, 2, 5, stops is common and should cover most situations.
I'm sure others will provide more recent personal recommendations. I have not been using filters on the camera since starting to shot on Pentax Digital - I am finding I enjoy achieving the required effects in software, even using a software polarising filter.
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Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
Posted 12/11/2012 - 19:47
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You already do great work for landscape
I am not sure what lenses you use, but I would advice the Cokin Z-Pro filter holder, with Lee filters and a drop-in polarizer.
Compared to the lee filter holder it is a holder that is safer for your filters. Even though the Lee system makes it easier to move the holder between lenses, it also makes it easier for accidents to happen. After you break a grad filter, and scrape a polarizer, you will realize that there can be a high price for convenience.
I know too many who have started out with cheaper brands, only to end up with Lee filters in the end. So I would advice to just take the plunge right away. It will be cheaper, and Lee filters are a lot easier to re-sell if you decide to stop doing landscape.
My most used filters are the 3 stop hard grad, and the polarizer.
Books you could read about the subject:
Essential Filters for Digital Nature Photography
Advanced Filters for Digital Nature Photography
I am not sure what lenses you use, but I would advice the Cokin Z-Pro filter holder, with Lee filters and a drop-in polarizer.
Compared to the lee filter holder it is a holder that is safer for your filters. Even though the Lee system makes it easier to move the holder between lenses, it also makes it easier for accidents to happen. After you break a grad filter, and scrape a polarizer, you will realize that there can be a high price for convenience.
I know too many who have started out with cheaper brands, only to end up with Lee filters in the end. So I would advice to just take the plunge right away. It will be cheaper, and Lee filters are a lot easier to re-sell if you decide to stop doing landscape.
My most used filters are the 3 stop hard grad, and the polarizer.
Books you could read about the subject:
Essential Filters for Digital Nature Photography
Advanced Filters for Digital Nature Photography
Posted 12/11/2012 - 21:08
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I use Hitech ND Grads 0.3, 0.6 and 0.9 and they work just great. They are made of resin, so easier to scratch, but if you drop them they won't shatter (as a Lee glass filter would). They fit into a standard Cokin-P 85mm filter holder. They do not create any colour cast and I have not noticed any loss of sharpness. Filters cost £45 the set from ebay, holder is peanuts, also from ebay. I also have a Hitech Pro 10 Stop filter which fits in the same holder and this is good too.
I always carry screw-in polarisers and they are on my lens almost all the time when shooting landscapes.
By concensus, Lee are the best, but I don't think hitech are far behind and they cost half as much.
Regards
David
I always carry screw-in polarisers and they are on my lens almost all the time when shooting landscapes.
By concensus, Lee are the best, but I don't think hitech are far behind and they cost half as much.
Regards
David
Posted 12/11/2012 - 21:31
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I use a Hoya PL occasionally
Recently I've been trying out a Massa ND32 (3 stops near as I can figure) and a Heliopan ND3,0 (10 stops)
Recently I've been trying out a Massa ND32 (3 stops near as I can figure) and a Heliopan ND3,0 (10 stops)
........................................................................
Digital:
Pentax K5- Vivitar 19mm 3.8; FA35mm f2; D-Xenon 100mm macro f2.8; DA50-200mm WR...
Flash:
Yongnuo YN-560; Vivitar 285HV; Cactus V4 triggers...
Film:
Pentax-MX & M50mm f1.4; Spottie & 55mm f1.8; MG & M40mm 2.8...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/daveholmesphotos/
Digital:
Pentax K5- Vivitar 19mm 3.8; FA35mm f2; D-Xenon 100mm macro f2.8; DA50-200mm WR...
Flash:
Yongnuo YN-560; Vivitar 285HV; Cactus V4 triggers...
Film:
Pentax-MX & M50mm f1.4; Spottie & 55mm f1.8; MG & M40mm 2.8...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/daveholmesphotos/
Posted 12/11/2012 - 21:32
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I wouldn't recommend any particular filter for the Kx, but I would recommend filters based on what lenses you intend using and according to your style of photography.
For example, the large format Lee filters will give a wider graduation for a larger lens. With a 49mm thread though you might find you are a bit limited on the graduation. An 85mm filter might be preferable, also it is a lot easier to fit in a small bag than a 150mm filter and a compact kit might be preferable if your lansdscaper involve scrambling over rocks.
If you predominantly like sunsets or sunrises then a strip grad and/or a reverse grad might be very useful.
For landscapes where I live then I find soft grads preferable to hard grads, but for seascapes or flatter landscapes then hard grads might be preferable.
Personally I find ND's essential. If you go for Lees then the size means you may get away with using the graduated area in lieu of a dedicated ND. You may want a 10stop grad, that look is in vogue. However, a fader might be more useful to you, certainly easier to compose in low light than using a screw-in ND10stop.
I would echo comments about the Lees. However, Cokin P's or Hitechs can also have their place. I find that as long as exposure with a Cokin P is accurate then the cast isn't really a problem. Get it wrong and everything can go pretty purple. Same with a B&W ND10 vs a Big Stopper.
Personally I find a CPL the least used filter in my armoury, but that is down to my style, however, others would swear by them.
For example, the large format Lee filters will give a wider graduation for a larger lens. With a 49mm thread though you might find you are a bit limited on the graduation. An 85mm filter might be preferable, also it is a lot easier to fit in a small bag than a 150mm filter and a compact kit might be preferable if your lansdscaper involve scrambling over rocks.
If you predominantly like sunsets or sunrises then a strip grad and/or a reverse grad might be very useful.
For landscapes where I live then I find soft grads preferable to hard grads, but for seascapes or flatter landscapes then hard grads might be preferable.
Personally I find ND's essential. If you go for Lees then the size means you may get away with using the graduated area in lieu of a dedicated ND. You may want a 10stop grad, that look is in vogue. However, a fader might be more useful to you, certainly easier to compose in low light than using a screw-in ND10stop.
I would echo comments about the Lees. However, Cokin P's or Hitechs can also have their place. I find that as long as exposure with a Cokin P is accurate then the cast isn't really a problem. Get it wrong and everything can go pretty purple. Same with a B&W ND10 vs a Big Stopper.
Personally I find a CPL the least used filter in my armoury, but that is down to my style, however, others would swear by them.
Posted 12/11/2012 - 23:27
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Just a quick update regarding 10 stop filters; most will introduce a colour cast, even a Lee Big Stopper. The Hitech I have has a blue cast, but this is very easily removed in post processing, or prevented altogether by setting a custom white balance in camera. Either way, it's not an issue.
As regards the Hitech ND Grads, they are neutral and do not create any colour cast at all.
Regards
David
As regards the Hitech ND Grads, they are neutral and do not create any colour cast at all.
Regards
David
Posted 13/11/2012 - 00:52
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I'm always happy to be shouted down by playing devils advocate - so here goes.
The OP asked about filters for his K-x, a digital camera. There's been some great advice already. But, really, nowadays for digital shooting, is it really the best advice to tell someone to buy all these bits of glass / resin and plastic holders and metal rings, head off into the hills with it all and fiddle around attaching it all, squinting and lining up horizons, twisting and turning things to get it all perfect??
Isn't the best advice nowadays to read up and practice using quality image software to achieve the same results with far more flexibility and variety of effects and implementation ?
I remember the physical kind of satisfaction in handling all the filters and the care and consideration it added to preparing the shot. But there was a lot of frustration as well at the extra messing around, dropped items and other annoyances - and in rapidly changing light it could cause a missed chance that doesn't return.
Are we really adding to image quality with these filters, or at least would we not obtain the same quality with intelligent software adjustments and merging of different exposures (if the DR was that high)??
The OP asked about filters for his K-x, a digital camera. There's been some great advice already. But, really, nowadays for digital shooting, is it really the best advice to tell someone to buy all these bits of glass / resin and plastic holders and metal rings, head off into the hills with it all and fiddle around attaching it all, squinting and lining up horizons, twisting and turning things to get it all perfect??
Isn't the best advice nowadays to read up and practice using quality image software to achieve the same results with far more flexibility and variety of effects and implementation ?
I remember the physical kind of satisfaction in handling all the filters and the care and consideration it added to preparing the shot. But there was a lot of frustration as well at the extra messing around, dropped items and other annoyances - and in rapidly changing light it could cause a missed chance that doesn't return.
Are we really adding to image quality with these filters, or at least would we not obtain the same quality with intelligent software adjustments and merging of different exposures (if the DR was that high)??
My Guides to the Pentax Digital Camera Flash Lighting System : Download here from the PentaxForums Homepage Article .... link
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
Posted 13/11/2012 - 07:20
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Thanks guys.
Great answers as always.
Ill take a look at these offerings today.
QC
Great answers as always.
Ill take a look at these offerings today.
QC
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Posted 13/11/2012 - 07:23
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I have been looking at ND filters on ebay. They are a square shape, so can someone tell me what holder you might use for the front?
Id be really grateful if someone could post a link with where I can get a 52mm? filter ring... isnt that what its called?
Cheers
QC
Id be really grateful if someone could post a link with where I can get a 52mm? filter ring... isnt that what its called?
Cheers
QC
Learn how to live and you'll know how to die; learn how to die, and you'll know how to live.
Check out ones photographs on Flickr!
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Posted 13/11/2012 - 07:35
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Hi Alistair. Here's what I bought together with my first photo with the kit https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/topic/1st-try-with-hitech-grad-filters-35454
Posted 13/11/2012 - 12:40
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McGregNi wrote:
Are we really adding to image quality with these filters, or at least would we not obtain the same quality with intelligent software adjustments and merging of different exposures (if the DR was that high)??
It really depends on your "ethos"...if you prefer been out and about and making every effort to capture the best possible image you can at the time then filters are essential, if you don't mind spending more time in processing and to differing degrees "manufacturing" images then filters are not always essential - personally I'm very much of an "in camera" way of thinking but it's each to their own - I'll leave it there anyway as I don't want the OPs thread to dissolve into an off topic debateAre we really adding to image quality with these filters, or at least would we not obtain the same quality with intelligent software adjustments and merging of different exposures (if the DR was that high)??
Simon
My website http://www.landscapephotographyuk.com
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Posted 13/11/2012 - 14:52
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QuestionableCarrot wrote:
I have been looking at ND filters on ebay.
I suppose the question is, do you yet know why you would need to use ND filters?I have been looking at ND filters on ebay.
If you don't, can I suggest you do some reading and find out exactly what they are and why they might be used.
Neutral density filters come in various types (ND, graduated ND Soft transition, graduated ND hard transition), shades (0.3, 0.6, 0.9 etc), sizes (round, square, rectangular), and materials (resin, glass), not to mention varying colour casts. You made find there are many more than 50 shades of grey, blue, and green.
You really need to know how and why you'd use them before shelling out money, perhaps unnecessarily.
Finally, remember, if you buy cheap, you will usually buy twice.
Peter E Smith - flickr Photostream
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1521 posts
15 years
Can someone please tell me what graduated filters and ND filters you would recommend for the K-x and any experiences you have with the brand/type.
I am having to use Lightroom too much lately and so I want to stop down more in camera at the time of shooting
http://www.flickr.com/photos/awprentice/
THANKS!
QC
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