Need some help with regards to shooting wide open
Posted 20/04/2014 - 14:31
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I tend to focus and re-compose, a minor movement will make very little difference unless the distance from the focal point is altering, which for portraiture it should not move very much.
I would check the AF fine adjustment Alistair, I have had to dial in '+5' on my K-3 with the DA*50-135 and it's now very accurate at the widest aperture.
Regards
David
I would check the AF fine adjustment Alistair, I have had to dial in '+5' on my K-3 with the DA*50-135 and it's now very accurate at the widest aperture.
Regards
David
Posted 20/04/2014 - 16:09
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Portraits need us to focus on the eyes, unless there's a reason to change that such as the famous shot of the boxer, concentrating on his huge gloved fists.
There's not much DOF at wide apertures, so the subject moving and the photographer moving can easily throw the focus point out. Just keep shooting and the success rate will improve.
It's also possible to take great portraits at apertures even down to f/22 and many classic Rollei TLR portraits do this.
The most important things are the eyes and matching the technique to the characteristic that you want to bring out in the subject.
There's not much DOF at wide apertures, so the subject moving and the photographer moving can easily throw the focus point out. Just keep shooting and the success rate will improve.
It's also possible to take great portraits at apertures even down to f/22 and many classic Rollei TLR portraits do this.
The most important things are the eyes and matching the technique to the characteristic that you want to bring out in the subject.
Best regards, John
Posted 20/04/2014 - 16:32
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I find if I want to nail the eyes, then its best to get the centre-point onto an eye, focus and hold - then move to compose and fire, and all quickly. If you get a few goes it usually helps, and a bit of a burst can help also if there's slight movement, you should get one good hit.
I get good results on manual lenses with 'catch-in-focus' - but it only fires when the centre is focussed, so can be a bit hit and miss - but when it hits its spot on, so again the bursts work well for me there.
I doubt many of us use pre-set different focus points - its just too much faffing when you've got a person waiting - I think that technique would only be good for static objects.
What do you mean by focus and re-compose being a 'super noob mistake'?
I get good results on manual lenses with 'catch-in-focus' - but it only fires when the centre is focussed, so can be a bit hit and miss - but when it hits its spot on, so again the bursts work well for me there.
I doubt many of us use pre-set different focus points - its just too much faffing when you've got a person waiting - I think that technique would only be good for static objects.
What do you mean by focus and re-compose being a 'super noob mistake'?
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Posted 20/04/2014 - 17:28
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Useful points for us all?
Posted 20/04/2014 - 17:32
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Focussing and then composing shouldn't throw it out @ f/2.8. I've never had that problem with my 50-135 and I almost always use it at 2.8 being a wide open fan. = have you checked the AF setting for it?
Get yourself a 50/1.2 then you'll see what razor thin DOF is [ It would also well suit your current street portrait style ]
I was lucky to get this couple of candids at a burger stall, manual focussing @ f/1.2
click on them to see at a decent size


Get yourself a 50/1.2 then you'll see what razor thin DOF is [ It would also well suit your current street portrait style ]
I was lucky to get this couple of candids at a burger stall, manual focussing @ f/1.2
click on them to see at a decent size


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Posted 20/04/2014 - 17:40
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Focussing on the eye will lead to miss focus as the front of the eye is clear the camera will actually focus on the rear of the eye ball. Instead focus on the eyebrow, sharp brows always show sharp eyes.
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Posted 20/04/2014 - 19:32
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So don't eyeball it, eyebrow it!
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Posted 21/04/2014 - 10:58
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cabstar wrote:
Focussing on the eye will lead to miss focus as the front of the eye is clear the camera will actually focus on the rear of the eye ball. Instead focus on the eyebrow, sharp brows always show sharp eyes.
+1
Focussing on the eye will lead to miss focus as the front of the eye is clear the camera will actually focus on the rear of the eye ball. Instead focus on the eyebrow, sharp brows always show sharp eyes.
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Posted 21/04/2014 - 11:00
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Smeggypants wrote:
Focussing and then composing shouldn't throw it out @ f/2.8. I've never had that problem with my 50-135 and I almost always use it at 2.8 being a wide open fan. = have you checked the AF setting for it?
Get yourself a 50/1.2 then you'll see what razor thin DOF is [ It would also well suit your current street portrait style ]
I was lucky to get this couple of candids at a burger stall, manual focussing @ f/1.2
click on them to see at a decent size


Nice Shots, interesting to know what she said after the second shot
Focussing and then composing shouldn't throw it out @ f/2.8. I've never had that problem with my 50-135 and I almost always use it at 2.8 being a wide open fan. = have you checked the AF setting for it?
Get yourself a 50/1.2 then you'll see what razor thin DOF is [ It would also well suit your current street portrait style ]
I was lucky to get this couple of candids at a burger stall, manual focussing @ f/1.2
click on them to see at a decent size


My Flickr Photostream
link
Pentax K3,Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM,Sigma 50mm F2.8 EX DG,SMC Pentax-DA* 300mm F4 ED [IF] SDM
link
Pentax K3,Sigma 17-50mm F2.8 EX DC OS HSM,Sigma 50mm F2.8 EX DG,SMC Pentax-DA* 300mm F4 ED [IF] SDM
Posted 21/04/2014 - 11:04
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PaulR wrote:
I've been thinking about this and can't really see how that can be so. The area read by the AF sensor isn't so tiny that it's going to look beyond the reflective front of the eye and somehow focus on the very dark back of the eye.cabstar wrote:
Focussing on the eye will lead to miss focus as the front of the eye is clear the camera will actually focus on the rear of the eye ball. Instead focus on the eyebrow, sharp brows always show sharp eyes.
+1Focussing on the eye will lead to miss focus as the front of the eye is clear the camera will actually focus on the rear of the eye ball. Instead focus on the eyebrow, sharp brows always show sharp eyes.
That would imply a degree of accuracy and ability that isn't there.
Best regards, John
Posted 21/04/2014 - 13:28
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PaulR wrote:
... Nice Shots, interesting to know what she said after the second shot
She may not have said anything - but he did mention once that he'd been out of action for a while
... Nice Shots, interesting to know what she said after the second shot
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Posted 21/04/2014 - 13:29
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johnriley wrote:
That would imply a degree of accuracy and ability that isn't there.
I wondered about this too John - it does seem a bit highbrow.
PaulR wrote:
I've been thinking about this and can't really see how that can be so. The area read by the AF sensor isn't so tiny that it's going to look beyond the reflective front of the eye and somehow focus on the very dark back of the eye.cabstar wrote:
Focussing on the eye will lead to miss focus as the front of the eye is clear the camera will actually focus on the rear of the eye ball. Instead focus on the eyebrow, sharp brows always show sharp eyes.
+1Focussing on the eye will lead to miss focus as the front of the eye is clear the camera will actually focus on the rear of the eye ball. Instead focus on the eyebrow, sharp brows always show sharp eyes.
That would imply a degree of accuracy and ability that isn't there.
My Guides to the Pentax Digital Camera Flash Lighting System : Download here from the PentaxForums Homepage Article .... link
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
Posted 22/04/2014 - 18:45
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johnriley wrote:
That would imply a degree of accuracy and ability that isn't there.
Ok take a photo of a lens and focus on the front element does the camera focus on the front element or the aperture blades, this depends on the angle and any markings on the front element. Checkout these macro eye shots PaulR wrote:
I've been thinking about this and can't really see how that can be so. The area read by the AF sensor isn't so tiny that it's going to look beyond the reflective front of the eye and somehow focus on the very dark back of the eye.cabstar wrote:
Focussing on the eye will lead to miss focus as the front of the eye is clear the camera will actually focus on the rear of the eye ball. Instead focus on the eyebrow, sharp brows always show sharp eyes.
+1Focussing on the eye will lead to miss focus as the front of the eye is clear the camera will actually focus on the rear of the eye ball. Instead focus on the eyebrow, sharp brows always show sharp eyes.
That would imply a degree of accuracy and ability that isn't there.
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-2246888/The-eyes-The-iris-picture...
PPG Wedding photography Flickr
Concert photography
Currently on a Pentax hiatus until an FF Pentax is released
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Currently on a Pentax hiatus until an FF Pentax is released
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1520 posts
15 years
I am (im sure youve noticed) shooting a lot of portraits at the moment and for quite a while I thought my "new" DA* 50 135 was focusing incorrectly at wide apertures when focusing on an eye and recomposing. This of course is a super noob mistake to make and i should know better. I love shooting wide open but because of movements it throws it out.
You guys out there that have more experience than me what do you do to work this out?
- Do you shoot narrower apertures?
- do you use different focus points?
- Are do you simply lock on shoot and crop later?
I appreciate that most of you will favour F4 etc but I would be happy to hear any tips
TA!
QC
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