ND filter advice for DA Ltds

Interesting thread. I was struck by a thought. How many people who shoot RAW and use Lightroom (with it's post processing graduated filters) still feel the need for grad filters on the lens?

I would think if I shot jpeg, I would still use my ND grads. As it is, I haven't used them for ages and feel that if I did come across a scene with so much contrast that I couldn't capture it in RAW, I'd tend to bracket and combine the images in HDR.

What do others think?

Paul

[quote][Interesting thread. I was struck by a thought. How many people who shoot RAW and use Lightroom (with it's post processing graduated filters) still feel the need for grad filters on the lens?/quote]

I have found that it is better to get your processing done per say at the shooting level, With my one stop and indeed two stop Graduated ND's. When I have used the One stop with the K5 even with it's DR the highlights can still be blown and require post processing but having used the filter in the first place they are easily recoverable. This is not always the case without the Filter attached, when I have needed to use the two stop to balance the exposure there is usually no way I could avoid Highlight blowout in post processing alone. It is however a bit of a faff using them in the field, (Landscape Photographers Pun: intended.)since at 49mm thread size they are a little small for my annoying Arthritic Sausage fingers...
And don't get me started on the DA 40mm Lens Cap, AAArrghhh...

I use LR's 'grad filter' effect in post, but if you're shooting say seascapes for eg, then that may not help you.

If you need to get a long exposure to create certain effects with waves and water, then you need a physical filter. No amount of post is going to recover info out of blown highlights from an exposure measured in whole seconds.

There is one way and that's to stack multiple exposures.

btw the perfect way to replace GND digitally is to use mutliple exposures as well but with different exposure values so you get a kind of HDR but more selectively so to say.

i have a set of cokin-a holders that is getting left home more and more.

even though my k7 doesn't really have much of a reputation for having much dynamic range, the 10 and a bit stops it does have covers most situations.

in post-processing, i generally try a software to darken the sky. first i try the grad filters in lr3. if they are no good because of a complicated horizon, then i go for the grad filters in nik color efex pro, since you can easily apply the grad filter selectively to the sky in those scenarios.

i do own a b+w 10 stop nd, which i'm growing to like more and more.

NIK's filters are very good +1 vote from me anyway!

That Works too Stefan!
I have had troubles there though with the skys, and those damn clouds moving and stuff! I wish that everything would just hold still when I try to photograph it

There are essentially two issues here. Firstly, would you prefer to faff around in the field or faff around in front of your computer? Secondly, do you also shoot film?

Digital has provided several ways of getting to the same end. Which route you choose is pretty much up to you.

K.

To be honest I think I'd rather use NDs than fiddle around stacking exposures on the laptop. I know how to use an ND filter and you only need to take one shot!

Did Pentax ever offer ND filters?

Might be worth checking out :-

http://www.premier-ink.co.uk/photographic/square-filters/-c-60_361.html

regards
Bernard

It wasn't Cokin! I used http://www.formatt.co.uk/default.aspx for the filters (it's the Hitech system). The 49mm bayonet adapter screws into the lens and the filter holder clips onto the adapter.

The Hitech system has the slot for the polariser at the front, which has turned out to be a problem at wide angles (less than 20mm) for me - even though I am using the wider 100mm filter size.

Anyway, it's a fair bit of kit to lug around (adapters, holders, filters, CPL) and in retrospect all I really need is a 0.9 ND grad (handheld) or a CPL (which I have 49mm screw on filter from Marumi).

The ND Grad filters I have are 100mm wide (they are just a flat piece of plastic) so they are easy to hold in front of the lens, but it takes up a hand, so only really practical with a tripod. However, if I need a filter, it's probably a landscape that needs a tripod anyway.

Don't have any screw-in ND Grads yet, but I assume you are right!

I was just indulging in a lunchbreak google graze of filter systems when all this new activity struck. Thanks for all these useful comments!

Yes - I was starting to appreciate this! I used to shoot film - but not at the moment and no plans. My instincts are to faff in the field, but I'm also getting to know LR3 so maybe need spend some time improving my PP skills before deciding which flavour I really am.


Sounds like the old 'fix a filter on using rubber bands round the camera' thing of yore. I'm quite tempted to give this a go (sounds potentially more flexible than Jules' B&W screw in grads.. although these are also interesting!). [I know this contradicts my last comment ]

Did your 0.9 ND grad come from the Hitech ssytem as well?

IF you're going to get grads then get the square format ones, they give you the ability to place the horizon anywhere in your photo with screw-ins the horizon is always in the middle.

I have the Cokin Z-pro GND kit, which contains the holder and 3 grads, you only need to buy a screw-in filter ring to hold the holder onto the lens.
The z-pro is off better quality then the normal Cokin filters like the A and P serries, these are 100mm wide as well so other brands will also fit.

Thanks Stefan

Do you know if this system fits the DA21 without vignetting? And is there a way to fit it onto the DA15mm (with its built in petal hood)?

Cheers

Yes because you can reverse mount the holder so it will only hold a single filter.
This should link you directly to the page of the z-pro.
http://www.cokin.fr/ico15/ico15-haut.html?=#z

so... with the 1.5 conversion it means it should be okay with ~13mm

I don't think you can fit it on the DA15 though because the hood doesn't redraw fully...

ps. the z-pro filters surely aren't the best there is, there is still a slight magenta cast but it's less then with the A and P serries.
I believe Matt also has these filters.

The only Cokin "A" filters I have are some sort of half closeup thing and a sepia filter (impulse buys when I was about 15 and not terribly clued-up about photography!)

If only I'd been hunting for a full set of SMC K lenses rather than fiddling about with filters...