My first ever go at film.

chaude
Posted 25/02/2011 - 18:02 Link
Borrowed a MZ-5 from Steve and brought it with me to the Lakes, with just a 43mm on it all the time. Far from perfect/good conditions, whiteouts, grey/white/mono skies. I think the film was a roll of kodak iso200 (cheap), Developed at boots, not the cheapest for a student though, will try somewhere else next time.
Lone tree and a loo
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Stream
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Waterfalls
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Woods
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Rime around Pavey ark
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Descending into Langdale valley
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C&C welcome and much needed and again thanks to Steve for lending me his camera!
johnriley
Posted 25/02/2011 - 18:31 Link
My feeling is that these are all far too light. There is good potential in them if darkened down considerably.
Best regards, John
chaude
Posted 25/02/2011 - 18:50 Link
I've got the same feeling too John, but they look a bit darker in the prints yet still not quite dark enough.
These images are from the CD boots did, I don't know if it's the scanning or anything leading to this.
johnriley
Posted 25/02/2011 - 18:57 Link
Even a slight darkening I thinki enhances the image, here's an example:
[IMG]http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff250/johnriley1uk/PU-Test-Image-25022011a.jpg[/IMG]
Best regards, John
Hardgravity
Posted 25/02/2011 - 22:50 Link
Not bad for a first set, but as John says, a little light.

Colours vary from shop to shop in the quality of the CD scans, so it may be an idea to try Max Speilman or Tesco.

I don't shoot colour film now, B&W is much more fun when you can develop it at home and scan ut the way you want.

That'll be your next step...
Cheers, HG

K110+DA40, K200+DA35, K3 and a bag of lenses, bodies and other bits.

Mustn't forget the Zenits, or folders, or...

PPG entries.
Ratcatcher
Posted 26/02/2011 - 10:20 Link
As said before a tad light. Number 1 & 2 are my favourites it was just a pity you could'nt get a better angle and leave out the sky.

tweaked and croped

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davidtrout
Posted 26/02/2011 - 11:20 Link
They good shots, especially the snowy moutnain scenes. if they've been scanned onto CD it should be easy to adjust the exposure to make them even better.
David
womble
Posted 26/02/2011 - 14:07 Link
As David said, provided they haven't burnt out the highlights you can do a moderate amount of tweaking to the files, especially with curves and black/white points.

With film images you have to double check the negatives to see if they are over/under-exposed not just the scans.

K.
Kris Lockyear
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
chaude
Posted 26/02/2011 - 15:12 Link
Thanks John, that certainly looks a lot better..
HG, I do like colour film, probably could develop that at home as I know a few friends have done it before, but I don't think I'll go down the home developing way any soon, too time consuming, too much faff for my liking. Might try somewhere else at developing next time.
Gareth: Thanks, well, not literally my first ever go at film, i have used film cameras as a kid but since I've done proper photography then that's my first serious usage of film.
Richard, that does look a lot better too!
David, sure that is actually possible, I forgot about editing them in computer
Kris, how do I check through the negatives though?
Dangermouse
Posted 01/03/2011 - 23:58 Link
You can only really tell from experience. I now know what properly exposed Ilford HP5 looks like after developing, but I've shot about twelve rolls of the stuff. I developed a roll of 120 film today which doesn't look right, it's probably only a stop or so out and can easily be rescued after scanning.

B&W film really is dead easy to develop at home. You do need a dark space but TBH I reckon you'd get away with loading it into the tank in a darkened room, at night, with a quilt or thick blanket over you and the film. I know the cupboard I use isn't perfect but it's good enough for the minute or two it takes to load a standard dev tank, and once the film is loaded you can do the rest under normal lighting.

If you can get hold of an Agfa Rondinax tank you don't need any darkness as they load exactly like a camera. You will need a film leader retrieving gadget, or do as I do and use older cameras with manual film rewind then simply stop cranking when you hear the click of the film disengaging from the sprocket.
Matt

Shooting the Welsh Wilderness with K-m, KX, MX, ME Super and assorted lenses.

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