MV Pentax. A present!
Posted 30/10/2011 - 17:05 - Helpful Comment
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My advice for a lens cap and strap would be ebay, assuming you want genuine ones. You can also buy a kit to replace the light seals for about £7 or so, if it hasn't already been done they will have turned gooey with age. You should also be able to get a genuine paper manual from there, although the MV isn't complicated. The manuals I have found online were PDFs so you can easily enlarge them to a readable size - the originals were in pretty small print!
Assuming it still has the standard Pentax-M 50mm lens you will want a 49mm clip-on lens cap with the "Asahi Pentax" lettering on a smooth background.
The original strap was thin webbing with a rubber shoulder pad, the buckles are the type where you push a lever down to lock them in place. Buckles and the little plastic lug protector bands should have "Asahi Pentax" stamped/moulded on.
You can of course fit any 49mm lens cap and any strap you fancy, but these would have been the original parts.
The AF160 or AF200S flashguns will both work with this camera, when fully charged the camera will illuminate an icon in the viewfinder and automatically select the sync speed.
Assuming it still has the standard Pentax-M 50mm lens you will want a 49mm clip-on lens cap with the "Asahi Pentax" lettering on a smooth background.
The original strap was thin webbing with a rubber shoulder pad, the buckles are the type where you push a lever down to lock them in place. Buckles and the little plastic lug protector bands should have "Asahi Pentax" stamped/moulded on.
You can of course fit any 49mm lens cap and any strap you fancy, but these would have been the original parts.
The AF160 or AF200S flashguns will both work with this camera, when fully charged the camera will illuminate an icon in the viewfinder and automatically select the sync speed.
Matt
Shooting the Welsh Wilderness with K-m, KX, MX, ME Super and assorted lenses.
Shooting the Welsh Wilderness with K-m, KX, MX, ME Super and assorted lenses.
Posted 30/10/2011 - 21:48 - Helpful Comment
Link
Don't BUY a manual, that's insane...
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/pentax/pentax_mv-1/pentax_mv-1.htm
Pretty nice little camera, like a fully auto ME Super
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/pentax/pentax_mv-1/pentax_mv-1.htm
Pretty nice little camera, like a fully auto ME Super
Posted 30/10/2011 - 22:04 - Helpful Comment
Link
I've a couple of M@Vs and find them a pleasure to use. if you need some batteries for the meter try Boyes.
A card of ten only cost a couple of pounds.
A card of ten only cost a couple of pounds.
Cheers, HG
K110+DA40, K200+DA35, K3 and a bag of lenses, bodies and other bits.
Mustn't forget the Zenits, or folders, or...
PPG entries.
K110+DA40, K200+DA35, K3 and a bag of lenses, bodies and other bits.
Mustn't forget the Zenits, or folders, or...
PPG entries.
Posted 30/10/2011 - 22:08 - Helpful Comment
Link
As said above you don't really need a manual, although I can understand wanting one for the sake of completeness.
Assuming that the loading/winding/rewinding and ASA setting are obvious then just set the camera to Auto, pick an aperture, and look through the viewfinder while half pressing the shutter. A green light means a shutter speed of 1/60 or higher (fine for hand-held shooting with the kit 50mm, in other words), a yellow light means 1/30 or slower (tripod needed). This is the main weakness of the MV/MV-1 - you have no idea whether it has picked a high enough speed for a longer lens. I generally use the Sunny 16 rule to get an idea of whether it will have done so and stick to wider apertures on longer lenses to make sure it keeps the speed up.
There is a red light to indicate that the camera can't handle the lighting, try adjusting the aperture if this comes on.
I'm not sure about the MV, but the MV-1 (which I'd guess uses the same shutter and electronics) can produce exposures much longer than you'd expect. I had a roughly 30 second exposure from mine last winter when I wanted a shot of the local supermarket. Just balanced the camera on the car bonnet using a mini tripod, set the lens to f22, then used the self timer to trigger the shutter.
The 100 setting is for use with non-dedicated flashguns, the camera will also default to this if the batteries die. B is self-explanatory.
The MV lacks a self timer, but a standard cable or air release will fit instead and is probably necessary for long exposures as there's no other way to trigger the shutter hands-off.
Assuming that the loading/winding/rewinding and ASA setting are obvious then just set the camera to Auto, pick an aperture, and look through the viewfinder while half pressing the shutter. A green light means a shutter speed of 1/60 or higher (fine for hand-held shooting with the kit 50mm, in other words), a yellow light means 1/30 or slower (tripod needed). This is the main weakness of the MV/MV-1 - you have no idea whether it has picked a high enough speed for a longer lens. I generally use the Sunny 16 rule to get an idea of whether it will have done so and stick to wider apertures on longer lenses to make sure it keeps the speed up.
There is a red light to indicate that the camera can't handle the lighting, try adjusting the aperture if this comes on.
I'm not sure about the MV, but the MV-1 (which I'd guess uses the same shutter and electronics) can produce exposures much longer than you'd expect. I had a roughly 30 second exposure from mine last winter when I wanted a shot of the local supermarket. Just balanced the camera on the car bonnet using a mini tripod, set the lens to f22, then used the self timer to trigger the shutter.
The 100 setting is for use with non-dedicated flashguns, the camera will also default to this if the batteries die. B is self-explanatory.
The MV lacks a self timer, but a standard cable or air release will fit instead and is probably necessary for long exposures as there's no other way to trigger the shutter hands-off.
Matt
Shooting the Welsh Wilderness with K-m, KX, MX, ME Super and assorted lenses.
Shooting the Welsh Wilderness with K-m, KX, MX, ME Super and assorted lenses.
Posted 31/10/2011 - 08:37 - Helpful Comment
Link
Nice to get a present like that! Having just run a roll of film through my A3 I should try to give the MV or MV1 a run.
K.
K.
Kris Lockyear
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
Posted 31/10/2011 - 19:41
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Thanks to everyone for taking the time to help, I will click on the links that you have sent to me and hopefully I will be able to find a strap at some point. The manual I'm not to bothered about as I have a pentax SLR that takes film but that is auto and the MV is fully manual. Thanks again everyone for tips and help. Cheers Trixie
Posted 31/10/2011 - 19:53
Link
Dangermouse wrote:
As said above you don't really need a manual, although I can understand wanting one for the sake of completeness.
Assuming that the loading/winding/rewinding and ASA setting are obvious then just set the camera to Auto, pick an aperture, and look through the viewfinder while half pressing the shutter. A green light means a shutter speed of 1/60 or higher (fine for hand-held shooting with the kit 50mm, in other words), a yellow light means 1/30 or slower (tripod needed). This is the main weakness of the MV/MV-1 - you have no idea whether it has picked a high enough speed for a longer lens. I generally use the Sunny 16 rule to get an idea of whether it will have done so and stick to wider apertures on longer lenses to make sure it keeps the speed up.
There is a red light to indicate that the camera can't handle the lighting, try adjusting the aperture if this comes on.
I'm not sure about the MV, but the MV-1 (which I'd guess uses the same shutter and electronics) can produce exposures much longer than you'd expect. I had a roughly 30 second exposure from mine last winter when I wanted a shot of the local supermarket. Just balanced the camera on the car bonnet using a mini tripod, set the lens to f22, then used the self timer to trigger the shutter.
The 100 setting is for use with non-dedicated flashguns, the camera will also default to this if the batteries die. B is self-explanatory.
The MV lacks a self timer, but a standard cable or air release will fit instead and is probably necessary for long exposures as there's no other way to trigger the shutter hands-off.
Thanks Matt for all the valuable info, I appreciate the time that you have taken to tell me especially the settings that you have used. Its a nice camera and in good condition, I love all film cameras and the guy who gave it too me says it works perfectly, I'm sure i will have fun with it. Thanks again Trixie
As said above you don't really need a manual, although I can understand wanting one for the sake of completeness.
Assuming that the loading/winding/rewinding and ASA setting are obvious then just set the camera to Auto, pick an aperture, and look through the viewfinder while half pressing the shutter. A green light means a shutter speed of 1/60 or higher (fine for hand-held shooting with the kit 50mm, in other words), a yellow light means 1/30 or slower (tripod needed). This is the main weakness of the MV/MV-1 - you have no idea whether it has picked a high enough speed for a longer lens. I generally use the Sunny 16 rule to get an idea of whether it will have done so and stick to wider apertures on longer lenses to make sure it keeps the speed up.
There is a red light to indicate that the camera can't handle the lighting, try adjusting the aperture if this comes on.
I'm not sure about the MV, but the MV-1 (which I'd guess uses the same shutter and electronics) can produce exposures much longer than you'd expect. I had a roughly 30 second exposure from mine last winter when I wanted a shot of the local supermarket. Just balanced the camera on the car bonnet using a mini tripod, set the lens to f22, then used the self timer to trigger the shutter.
The 100 setting is for use with non-dedicated flashguns, the camera will also default to this if the batteries die. B is self-explanatory.
The MV lacks a self timer, but a standard cable or air release will fit instead and is probably necessary for long exposures as there's no other way to trigger the shutter hands-off.
[[quote]Trixie xx If at first you don't succeed, try, try again,then quit. No use being a damn fool about it. W. C Fields.
Posted 31/10/2011 - 21:57 - Helpful Comment
Link
mdc wrote:
Don't BUY a manual, that's insane...
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/pentax/pentax_mv-1/pentax_mv-1.htm
Pretty nice little camera, like a fully auto ME Super
Just trying to support the site.
Don't BUY a manual, that's insane...
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/pentax/pentax_mv-1/pentax_mv-1.htm
Pretty nice little camera, like a fully auto ME Super
Posted 01/11/2011 - 14:24
Link
Mannesty wrote:
A high quality .PDF manual can be downloaded from here. Password is "Pentax", no quotes, case sensitive.
Thanks a lot to everyone for your time, I will download a manual now, I like to have one to check things out. Cheers Trixie
A high quality .PDF manual can be downloaded from here. Password is "Pentax", no quotes, case sensitive.
[[quote]Trixie xx If at first you don't succeed, try, try again,then quit. No use being a damn fool about it. W. C Fields.
Posted 02/11/2011 - 15:45
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I've an official pentax strap if you are still looking - from an old Programme A, so similar vintage to your MV! PM me with an offer and we can see if we can do a deal
Posted 01/12/2011 - 17:16
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Don't know if you're interested but I am advertising a very good original Pentax case that is a perfect fit for the MV.
Advert here: https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/topic/fs--ever-ready-case-for-pentax-me-series-...
Offers invited.
Advert here: https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/topic/fs--ever-ready-case-for-pentax-me-series-...
Offers invited.
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15 years
Sheffield