multiple exposure feature uses??
1,469 posts
Link
Posted 04/01/2010 - 12:31
Yes, waterfalls is one use. The vehicles will be ghostlike, you cannot help it.
I have seen another use, though, when this was new: A see through car bonnet. Take one with the bonnet closed and then one (or more) with the bonnet open.
If you are ok using Photoshop or similar software, that always brings you more freedom to improve the image.
Prieni
How inappropriate to call this planet earth when it is quite clearly Ocean. - Arthur C. Clarke
Prieni's PPG page
I have seen another use, though, when this was new: A see through car bonnet. Take one with the bonnet closed and then one (or more) with the bonnet open.
If you are ok using Photoshop or similar software, that always brings you more freedom to improve the image.
Prieni
How inappropriate to call this planet earth when it is quite clearly Ocean. - Arthur C. Clarke
Prieni's PPG page
39 posts
Link
Posted 04/01/2010 - 13:02
Well I use it to stack long exposures with clouds, but thats similar to the whole fountain/water use.
Does the K10D have the 'Auto EV Adjust' option in the Mutlti-exposure setting? (Sorry I have the K20D) If it does then it is possible to do something like this https://www.pentaxuser.com/photo/user-7917/drive-4355 and overlap different images.
The only other advantage which I have found is that if you stack Multiple exposure, you can reduce the effective ISO of the photo.
As as an example, both of these were shot at the same ISO(cant remember which, sorry) Using the 'fill light' setting in Photoshop it brightened up the shadows making the noise alot more visible.
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o232/RaV3nous1/multiex1.jpg
Thinking along these lines, it can be used to expand the dynamic range of a photo. If you under exposure with say 9 stacked images, you can really recover a huge amount of detail in the shadows while keeping the highlights with the under exposure.
~Conal
Pentax K20D | 18-55mm II | 50-200mm | SMC A 50mm f2 |
DeviantArt | My Flickr |
Does the K10D have the 'Auto EV Adjust' option in the Mutlti-exposure setting? (Sorry I have the K20D) If it does then it is possible to do something like this https://www.pentaxuser.com/photo/user-7917/drive-4355 and overlap different images.
The only other advantage which I have found is that if you stack Multiple exposure, you can reduce the effective ISO of the photo.
As as an example, both of these were shot at the same ISO(cant remember which, sorry) Using the 'fill light' setting in Photoshop it brightened up the shadows making the noise alot more visible.
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o232/RaV3nous1/multiex1.jpg
Thinking along these lines, it can be used to expand the dynamic range of a photo. If you under exposure with say 9 stacked images, you can really recover a huge amount of detail in the shadows while keeping the highlights with the under exposure.
~Conal
Pentax K20D | 18-55mm II | 50-200mm | SMC A 50mm f2 |
DeviantArt | My Flickr |
Last Edited by RaV on 04/01/2010 - 13:03
Link
Posted 04/01/2010 - 14:33
adwb wrote:
...is it psibble to get a solid image multiples?
...is it psibble to get a solid image multiples?
All items that remain in the same position in *all* the frames will remain solid - everything else will appear "ghost-like" to one degree or another.
In addition to the tips Prieni an RaV give above, here's one I got from Don a couple of years back:
Take a three image multiple exposure. In the first shot use a red filter over the lens, a blue filter in the second shot and a green filter in the third. Anything that has remained still during all three shots will appear as normal (a combination of the R, G and B images) whereas items that have moved (clouds are great for this) will take on spooky and surreal colour casts. Takes a bit of trial and error but can give some great results.
Joining the Q
Link
Posted 04/01/2010 - 14:48
hefty1 wrote:
Take a three image multiple exposure. In the first shot use a red filter over the lens, a blue filter in the second shot and a green filter in the third. Anything that has remained still during all three shots will appear as normal (a combination of the R, G and B images) whereas items that have moved (clouds are great for this) will take on spooky and surreal colour casts. Takes a bit of trial and error but can give some great results.
Take a three image multiple exposure. In the first shot use a red filter over the lens, a blue filter in the second shot and a green filter in the third. Anything that has remained still during all three shots will appear as normal (a combination of the R, G and B images) whereas items that have moved (clouds are great for this) will take on spooky and surreal colour casts. Takes a bit of trial and error but can give some great results.
Nice effect no need for a filter though , you can simply extract the colour you need since the sensor is built up form red green and blue filters.
Stefan
K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ
Link
Posted 04/01/2010 - 14:51
Anvh wrote:
Nice effect no need for a filter though , you can simply extract the colour you need since the sensor is built up form red green and blue filters.
Nice effect no need for a filter though , you can simply extract the colour you need since the sensor is built up form red green and blue filters.
Not "in-camera" on a K10 - none of those flashy colour extraction special effects here!
Joining the Q
Link
Posted 04/01/2010 - 15:05
No indeed not in camera but you can easily do it in photoshop and also probably in gimp.
Stefan
K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ
Stefan
K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ
Link
Posted 04/01/2010 - 16:20
If it's snowing or raining mount camera on tripod take your exposureseveral then merge in Photoshop using 'darken' blending and raindrops or falling snow will disappear.
Multipul exposures (perhaps combined with a dark ND filter) can make moving objects - e.g. vehicles, or people - disapear from the picture.
I'm sure I could think of more if I tried...
Good luck
Bob
Pentax user since 1978, Digital since 1997.
Kit includes: K-7, K20D, K10D, *istDS, full set DA* lens, etc
Multipul exposures (perhaps combined with a dark ND filter) can make moving objects - e.g. vehicles, or people - disapear from the picture.
I'm sure I could think of more if I tried...
Good luck
Bob
Pentax user since 1978, Digital since 1997.
Kit includes: K-7, K20D, K10D, *istDS, full set DA* lens, etc
Link
Posted 05/01/2010 - 02:41
I've been using multiexposure for creating HDR shots.
Niklas
15mm - 450mm equivalent, and still can't reach...
Niklas
15mm - 450mm equivalent, and still can't reach...
Link
Posted 06/01/2010 - 10:54
Thank you every one for the information, It would appear tht I will have to learn to step out of the box and try to be a bit creative to use this fature.
I must say that there is no use otherwise than art or creativity for this action surprises me or rather it surprises me that Pentax put it there.
I had though that it would stack and thereore could have been used to extend DOF in macro by ajusting the focus point in each shot but that does not work either.
Alistair
Assorted Pentax bodies and lenses as well as Sony and Olympus kit
I must say that there is no use otherwise than art or creativity for this action surprises me or rather it surprises me that Pentax put it there.
I had though that it would stack and thereore could have been used to extend DOF in macro by ajusting the focus point in each shot but that does not work either.
Alistair
Assorted Pentax bodies and lenses as well as Sony and Olympus kit
Add a Comment
You must be registered or logged-in to comment.
adwb
Member
BRISTOL ENGLAND
I tried a series with vehicles passing on a road side but they are all ghostlike,is it psibble to get a solid image multiples? outside of using PS?
alistair
Assorted Pentax bodies and lenses as well as Sony and Olympus kit