Mounting a photo to backboard or mount?

Hi
I have a few large photos (30 byb40 inch, 1 12 by 12 inch), frames with mount.

I've decided to mount /frame then myself. It's it better to mount/stick them to the mount or backboard?

I heard only a little bit of masking tape new ech corner is enough.
Thanks,
pa

Hi
When I mount photos I use double sided tape on the back board full length
Of the photo at the top only so it just hangs down

I use 3M Photo Mount (red can). Spray the back of the print, let the adhesive evaporate and then press down onto the board. Use a roller to firmly press the print down.

It's essential to use the red can spray and not the blue one as the latter will peel off, not being permanent.

I use "Photo Mounting Paper". It's like a thin plastic sheet. ùyou size it the same as your photo, "sandwich" the board, photo mounting paper and photo, and use a warm clothes iron on the "sandwich". The mounting film will melt and form a permanent mount for your photo.

You must absolutely be sure everything is as you want it before the ironing process starts, since the thing is irreversible.

Surely you can't use mounting tissue on an inkjet or even a resin coated print?

If you haven't got a 30"x40" mounting press, it's probably better to get them done professionally. A lab or even a decent pro photographer should be able to do it. Failing that spray mount is the next best bet.

--

I cut a window on the mount board, then use masking tape to create a hinge mount for the print on the rear of the mount board. I then use double sided tape on the rear of the mount board to fix the backing board.

I use acid free tape to 'hinge' mount the print to the back of the mount board, and then tape a backing board all the way around. This gives a solid result with no movement or crinkling of the print, but still lets you change the mount (size or colour) should you wish to.

Phil

The best answer is "it depends"!

Is it a cheap print? A fine art print? Easily / cheaply replaceable? Flat or curved slightly as it's been delivered in a tube etc..

As a framer I personally treat all prints in the same way as our fine art limited edition prints, by top hanging them with an acid free archival tape (Filmoplast P90 in this example), onto an undermount that is taped to the window mount with acid free tape (PH7-70 here as its a stronger tape than the P90) like so:-




This is one of our example pieces and shows a green undermount to make it easier to see/describe, normally I would be using a white acid free mountboard!

Why like this? Paper is hygroscopic and as such needs space to move / breath. 'Sticking it down' causes problems such as buckling / cockling etc so do not tape down the whole top edge, stick down each corner, tape down both sides etc.

On my training course I was taught to avoid tapes such as sellotape, masking tape, brown tape, double sided tape, basically any tape you normally have around the house as they are not acid free and will yellow the paper over time.

Spray mount is best avoided as you can never guarantee an even coverage and over time the paper will end up with an 'orange peel' effect as it cannot move.

Another option would be to use archival photo corners in each corner but do allow a little sideways space and a little gap at the top to to allow for movement.

Bonding an image to a board like Yves mentioned is also an option but only with images of no / little value as it is a permanent option. We have a cold laminator to do this rather than use heat such as an iron, so that even pressure is applied :-




Dry mounting onto foam core board with a lamination over the top does give you more options such as framing without glass and using an inset box frame as pictured.

Hope that helps and if you have any questions, just ask!

Yes, you can. As for paper, I use almost exclusively mat type, so I never have problems there.

I forgot to mention on my previous post that you need to cover the print with wax paper before ironing to protect it.

I tried the Scotch aerosol stuff once, years ago.

Not successful, inasmuch as the "draught" from the aerosol carried glue over-spray under the print onto the face side....

Messy!

Roger.

Yep, I had the same problem with 3M Photo Mount when I tried it -- never again. I'm sure the product is fine - but I don't think I'm quite up to using it effectively.

Andrew

It should be a clean process.

Put the print face down on newspaper. Spray with the can held horizontally about six inches from the paper, first one way, then the other. Leave the print until the adhesive is dry, perhaps 1 minute. Then apply it to the board and roller it down.

When the session is finished, turn the can upside down and expel some of the carrier gas into a cloth. This keeps the nozzle clean and non-sticky for the next time.

Yes, that is pretty much what I did. The 3M spray puddled on the back of the print - and some got onto the print itself, which went in the bin. For me, using a window mount and double sided tape is a safer option.

Andrew