Merry Christmas at 1600 Iso..
This topic has a poll - login to enter
Posted 20/12/2019 - 20:42
Link
I would have tried both. It is only a roll of the finger after all...
Posted 20/12/2019 - 21:07
Link
womble wrote:
I would have tried both. It is only a roll of the finger after all...
I would have tried both. It is only a roll of the finger after all...
Yes guess so....! Never really gave it a thought, just panicked...lol What you get mixing with professionals, and out of your depth..
K-1Gripped K-1 ungripped K-5ii K7 Various lenses
Stuart..
Stuart..
Posted 21/12/2019 - 18:06
Link
As a comparison, what equipment was the other guy using.And
If you saw his images how good were they.
Any time I have shot in a studio it is usually at iso100 f11. 125sec.
If you saw his images how good were they.
Any time I have shot in a studio it is usually at iso100 f11. 125sec.
Posted 21/12/2019 - 21:22
Link
Sounds like me your a flash man then, with those kind of settings theonenadeem.. ? It was only f5.6 as I suspect the permanent lights were generating all the power they could. And not seen any images as yet other than Facebook postings,, Which are only kinda 3x2 So hard to tell if they would make a print.
Heres a couple of mine.... Don't laugh..! well not oit loud anyhow...lol


Heres a couple of mine.... Don't laugh..! well not oit loud anyhow...lol


K-1Gripped K-1 ungripped K-5ii K7 Various lenses
Stuart..
Stuart..
Posted 21/12/2019 - 23:11
Link
I'm all about the end result, rather than getting hung up with numbers.
I let my K-3 float to a max of 3200, and 1600 if i want/need a particularly clean shot for any particular reason.
Less stress and more try.
Bottom line is the exposure triangle. If you really need a lower ISO then you need either a narrower depth of field/wide aperture or a long shutter speed time.
With those you risk getting parts of the image out of focus/missing focus or motion blur in the shot. A bit of noise is easier to deal with than a missed shot altogether after all.
I let my K-3 float to a max of 3200, and 1600 if i want/need a particularly clean shot for any particular reason.
Less stress and more try.
Bottom line is the exposure triangle. If you really need a lower ISO then you need either a narrower depth of field/wide aperture or a long shutter speed time.
With those you risk getting parts of the image out of focus/missing focus or motion blur in the shot. A bit of noise is easier to deal with than a missed shot altogether after all.
Posted 22/12/2019 - 00:09
Link
I agree with Rich's post.
Also, if your camera club requirements are the same as in our area, the images are probably no bigger than A3 (16 inch). Isn't it likely that the K-1 will produce minimal noise at ISO 1600, and that it might be rendered almost imperceptible by the down-sampling process when making such a print?
Philip
Also, if your camera club requirements are the same as in our area, the images are probably no bigger than A3 (16 inch). Isn't it likely that the K-1 will produce minimal noise at ISO 1600, and that it might be rendered almost imperceptible by the down-sampling process when making such a print?
Philip
Posted 22/12/2019 - 03:06
Link
At Stubbs...I like No2 ...some creativity there.
When I have shot in Studios, they have been pro studios, and I let the owner set up a 2 light setup (I lack the knowledge)
.The studio owner also tells me the settings to enter into my camera.
When I have shot in Studios, they have been pro studios, and I let the owner set up a 2 light setup (I lack the knowledge)
.The studio owner also tells me the settings to enter into my camera.
Posted 22/12/2019 - 13:24 - Helpful Comment
Link
I've shot over 3200 iso on the K1 with virtually no noise, you can also run the image through a noise cleaner if you wish.
Studio lighting is fairly easy once you've grasped the basics and I always set up the lighting myself, it's worth having a flash meter if your using multiple lights, my normal set up is 2 lights on the background, particularly if the intention is white and one or two on the model.
The shot below is with a K1 @ 1600 ISO

Studio lighting is fairly easy once you've grasped the basics and I always set up the lighting myself, it's worth having a flash meter if your using multiple lights, my normal set up is 2 lights on the background, particularly if the intention is white and one or two on the model.
The shot below is with a K1 @ 1600 ISO

Chris
www.chrismillsphotography.co.uk
" A Hangover is something that occupies the Head you neglected to use the night before".
-------------------------------------------------------------
K1 - Sigma 85mm F1.4, Pentax DFA 150 -450 F4.5 / 5.6, Pentax DFA* 24 - 70 F2.8
Samyang 14mm F2.8, Pentax DFA* 70-200 F2.8, Pentax A 50mm F1.2
K3iii + K3ii + K5iis converted to IR, Sigma 17 - 70 F2.8, Pentax 55 - 300 F4.5 / F5.6 PLM
www.chrismillsphotography.co.uk
" A Hangover is something that occupies the Head you neglected to use the night before".
-------------------------------------------------------------
K1 - Sigma 85mm F1.4, Pentax DFA 150 -450 F4.5 / 5.6, Pentax DFA* 24 - 70 F2.8
Samyang 14mm F2.8, Pentax DFA* 70-200 F2.8, Pentax A 50mm F1.2
K3iii + K3ii + K5iis converted to IR, Sigma 17 - 70 F2.8, Pentax 55 - 300 F4.5 / F5.6 PLM
Posted 22/12/2019 - 15:24
Link
Thanks guy's for the info... Guess I just bottled it. as I was in unfirmiliar territory at 1600 Iso. I have no issues with the number or positioning of the lights. As I own more (Flash strobes) than most professional studio's. I also own a flash meter. But I always set my portrait shoots to shoot at Iso 100. 5 lights usually. Like Chris 2 background light's or hairlight's. 1or 2 keylights. If it's a full length shot or not. A fill light.
At this shoot I was a little taken aback, to see the Viltrox permanent units. (My fault for not getting out more...lol) My first reaction was these would be easier to carry..! But when I saw the setting the Pro had left @ 1600 Iso. My reaction was.. Small but not powerful enough indoors..! But your all right. I dont use my K1 at the higher Iso's enough. Mainly because I've never had too. So wasn't 100% of the outcome
At this shoot I was a little taken aback, to see the Viltrox permanent units. (My fault for not getting out more...lol) My first reaction was these would be easier to carry..! But when I saw the setting the Pro had left @ 1600 Iso. My reaction was.. Small but not powerful enough indoors..! But your all right. I dont use my K1 at the higher Iso's enough. Mainly because I've never had too. So wasn't 100% of the outcome
K-1Gripped K-1 ungripped K-5ii K7 Various lenses
Stuart..
Stuart..
Posted 22/12/2019 - 16:00
Link
Hi Stuart,
Please find an example of K1 @ 3200 ISO - 1/50th Sec F2.8 with and with out NR ( Nik Collection Define )
Without NR :-

With NR :-

Please find an example of K1 @ 3200 ISO - 1/50th Sec F2.8 with and with out NR ( Nik Collection Define )
Without NR :-

With NR :-

Chris
www.chrismillsphotography.co.uk
" A Hangover is something that occupies the Head you neglected to use the night before".
-------------------------------------------------------------
K1 - Sigma 85mm F1.4, Pentax DFA 150 -450 F4.5 / 5.6, Pentax DFA* 24 - 70 F2.8
Samyang 14mm F2.8, Pentax DFA* 70-200 F2.8, Pentax A 50mm F1.2
K3iii + K3ii + K5iis converted to IR, Sigma 17 - 70 F2.8, Pentax 55 - 300 F4.5 / F5.6 PLM
www.chrismillsphotography.co.uk
" A Hangover is something that occupies the Head you neglected to use the night before".
-------------------------------------------------------------
K1 - Sigma 85mm F1.4, Pentax DFA 150 -450 F4.5 / 5.6, Pentax DFA* 24 - 70 F2.8
Samyang 14mm F2.8, Pentax DFA* 70-200 F2.8, Pentax A 50mm F1.2
K3iii + K3ii + K5iis converted to IR, Sigma 17 - 70 F2.8, Pentax 55 - 300 F4.5 / F5.6 PLM
Posted 22/12/2019 - 20:09
Link
Fantastic images Chris... (As always..) Yes they prove the K1 can work in low light. very well. But I'm guessing that here, you were using your lens at its fastest. (You didnt say what it was) But on my shoot. I had options / choices.. So I sacrificed some shutter speed, Opened the lens up a bit more. To shoot at iso 400.. But looks like I'm the only one that would have made the choice. So when I get a min. I'm going to get my lights and manakin head out. And do some practising... I also have Nik Define. So will give that a go too...
K-1Gripped K-1 ungripped K-5ii K7 Various lenses
Stuart..
Stuart..
Posted 22/12/2019 - 20:57
Link
ISO 1600 wow I have just come back from a shoot in Durham Cathedral, K5ii ISO manual between 6400 & 12800 Sony on auto ISO between 4000 & 25600. In a controlled studio setting it would have been a doddle for the K1
John
John
Add Comment
To leave a comment - Log in to Pentax User or create a new account.
1973 posts
14 years
Manchester
Just a general query/question. Last night I was asked to go along and try my luck with a local photographer at his studio. Along with some models. With a Christmas shoot..
Let me point out first here I love working with models, doing shoots. But hate the very thought of Chrictmas and could easily play scrooge any day of the week...lol
Anyway back to the question. When I arrived with just my K1+ DFA 24 - 70. (As it was my first visit. Thought I'd get an easy lens changing night after work.) The owner possesed some kind of Viltrox LED lights. He had two, lighting the set. Along with a beautiful young lady a note to the set. "LIGHTING SETTINGS 1/125 sec f5.6 iso 1600.
"ISO1600...? OMG...!!
At which point my heart sank and my interest totally fell out of the shoot. I'd never used my K1 at 1600 Iso before.. Certainly not for a model shoot..! Yes I know it can perform at that level. But what is the output like. I had to make an istant decision. I was flapping. I was hopeing I may use some in local camera club competitions. So got to say, "I bottled it"..lol. and used Iso 400 and the f2.8
of the lens
Would you have used Iso 1600 on the K1. Or any other Pentax camera for that matter...?
Please pass on your thoughts..?
Stuart..