manual settings makes folks skin very red
Posted 21/10/2013 - 00:25
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I think it might be because it is underexposed.
How's this?

I've just brightened it a bit and added a gamma boost to the mid tones.
John K
How's this?

I've just brightened it a bit and added a gamma boost to the mid tones.
John K
John K
Posted 21/10/2013 - 08:39
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Thanks John - I would say the normal colour is that which you have achieved under the chin - so still too red everywhere else. S'pose a high ISO could lead to under exposure - but it was a dull day yesterday and I have also had the same effect on sunny days - s'pose I will just have to keep playing around until I get the correct mixture of settings- it is annoying though as it will only be matter of time before I lose/spoil a keeper due to this, so would like to get it nailed.
"All you ever gotta do is be a good man one time to one woman"
(Janis Joplin)
KIT: K5iis, DAWR18-55mm,FA4.5 80-320mm, Mitsuki 5.6 400mm, M1.7 50mm, M1.4 50mm, M2.8 28mm, Miranda M2.8 28mm, M3.5 135mm, M1.4 200mm, Vivitar S13.5 70-210mm, Vivitar A 2.8 90mm macro,
Sigma150-500mm F5-6.3 APO DG HSM.
(Janis Joplin)
KIT: K5iis, DAWR18-55mm,FA4.5 80-320mm, Mitsuki 5.6 400mm, M1.7 50mm, M1.4 50mm, M2.8 28mm, Miranda M2.8 28mm, M3.5 135mm, M1.4 200mm, Vivitar S13.5 70-210mm, Vivitar A 2.8 90mm macro,
Sigma150-500mm F5-6.3 APO DG HSM.
Posted 21/10/2013 - 09:04
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It looks like under exposure to me and high ISO is less likely to lead to that. What did you manually set the WB to?
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Posted 21/10/2013 - 09:21
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Looking at the EXIF data from the image, the camera is set to Hard contrast, High Saturation, and Hard sharpness.
The White Balance is on auto, ISO 800 and 1/320.
I'd be inclined to tone down the contrast and saturation, and use a neutral setting instead.
The White Balance is on auto, ISO 800 and 1/320.
I'd be inclined to tone down the contrast and saturation, and use a neutral setting instead.
.
Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
.
Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
.
Posted 21/10/2013 - 09:28
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You have the camera set to high saturation and center weighted average,I would use natural and spot-metering to the subject,if that was the object of the photo.
Jack.
Jack.
K5iis,K7,KM, MG, Super A, MZ50.
24f2.8; 28f2.8;31 limited; 35f2; 55f1.8; 135f2.8; 400f5.6:
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http://c759846.r46.cf2.rackcdn.com/img/black_link.jpg" alt="See my photos featured in the PENTAX Photogallery" />
24f2.8; 28f2.8;31 limited; 35f2; 55f1.8; 135f2.8; 400f5.6:
Some zooms
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Posted 21/10/2013 - 09:33
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montyaus wrote:
You have the camera set to high saturation and matrix metering,I would use natural and spot-metering to the subject,if that was the object of the photo.
Centre-weighted, according to EXIF-Viewer in Firefox.You have the camera set to high saturation and matrix metering,I would use natural and spot-metering to the subject,if that was the object of the photo.
If the face is in shadow, using spot-metering will burn the sky out which may not be what's wanted.
.
Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
.
Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
.
Posted 21/10/2013 - 10:31
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If you would expose for the face and not have the sky blown out it would require a filter,would it not.
the scene didn`t look like it was very bright so in PP you might be able to adjust it,the K5iis does have a good dynamic range the example that JAC posted would`nt have blown the sky
The OP inquired as to the the red skin this would in my opinion fix it.
Jack.
PS I edited the post as you were reading it
the scene didn`t look like it was very bright so in PP you might be able to adjust it,the K5iis does have a good dynamic range the example that JAC posted would`nt have blown the sky
The OP inquired as to the the red skin this would in my opinion fix it.
Jack.
PS I edited the post as you were reading it
K5iis,K7,KM, MG, Super A, MZ50.
24f2.8; 28f2.8;31 limited; 35f2; 55f1.8; 135f2.8; 400f5.6:
Some zooms
https://pentaxphotogallery.com/artists/jack" target="_blank">
http://c759846.r46.cf2.rackcdn.com/img/black_link.jpg" alt="See my photos featured in the PENTAX Photogallery" />
24f2.8; 28f2.8;31 limited; 35f2; 55f1.8; 135f2.8; 400f5.6:
Some zooms
https://pentaxphotogallery.com/artists/jack" target="_blank">
Posted 21/10/2013 - 10:44
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montyaus wrote:
If you would expose for the face ....
The OP inquired as to the the red skin this would in my opinion fix it.
I don't see how the unnaturally red cheeks and chin is an exposure problem. I mean, it's underexposed, sure, which makes everything look darker.If you would expose for the face ....
The OP inquired as to the the red skin this would in my opinion fix it.
But as the OP said (of the lightened version):
Taynuiltpixels wrote:
Thanks John - I would say the normal colour is that which you have achieved under the chin - so still too red everywhere else.
The EXIF clearly says that the saturation is cranked up - a smoking gun if ever I saw one.
Thanks John - I would say the normal colour is that which you have achieved under the chin - so still too red everywhere else.
.
Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
.
Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
.
Posted 21/10/2013 - 15:04
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Tone down the saturation and this is the result:

It doesn't look red now.
As suggested, just set the camera to normal settings unless you want to distort the colours.
John K

It doesn't look red now.
As suggested, just set the camera to normal settings unless you want to distort the colours.
John K
John K
Posted 21/10/2013 - 20:41
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Thank you everyone, I am still very much on the learning curve with all this. I must have inadvertently changed the settings for contrast, saturation and sharpness - so I will delve into the destruction manual and try and suss out how to reset them to a more neutral setting.
"All you ever gotta do is be a good man one time to one woman"
(Janis Joplin)
KIT: K5iis, DAWR18-55mm,FA4.5 80-320mm, Mitsuki 5.6 400mm, M1.7 50mm, M1.4 50mm, M2.8 28mm, Miranda M2.8 28mm, M3.5 135mm, M1.4 200mm, Vivitar S13.5 70-210mm, Vivitar A 2.8 90mm macro,
Sigma150-500mm F5-6.3 APO DG HSM.
(Janis Joplin)
KIT: K5iis, DAWR18-55mm,FA4.5 80-320mm, Mitsuki 5.6 400mm, M1.7 50mm, M1.4 50mm, M2.8 28mm, Miranda M2.8 28mm, M3.5 135mm, M1.4 200mm, Vivitar S13.5 70-210mm, Vivitar A 2.8 90mm macro,
Sigma150-500mm F5-6.3 APO DG HSM.
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94 posts
12 years
Taynuilt,
Argyll,
UK.
The photo subject aside, a problem I often have when on manual settings (K5iis) using old glass is that the skin tone comes up really red, as it has here, leaving all the other colours looking fine, is this a characteristic of using too fast ISO? Any advise gratefully received.
Thanks
Stephen
(Janis Joplin)
KIT: K5iis, DAWR18-55mm,FA4.5 80-320mm, Mitsuki 5.6 400mm, M1.7 50mm, M1.4 50mm, M2.8 28mm, Miranda M2.8 28mm, M3.5 135mm, M1.4 200mm, Vivitar S13.5 70-210mm, Vivitar A 2.8 90mm macro,
Sigma150-500mm F5-6.3 APO DG HSM.