Manual lens plus extension tubes - shake reduction


screwdriver222

Link Posted 01/09/2013 - 08:14
Hi

I recently tried macro shooting with my K5 and M50 f1.7 with extension tubes. Now the camera asks for the focal length so that's 50mm, but because of the extension tubes causing magnification should I be putting something in a lot higher.

Regards Jeff
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sterretje

Link Posted 01/09/2013 - 09:08
Maybe this thread can help you out: http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-discussion/182304-shake-reduction...

I would think that you would use a tripod in which case SR should be switched off anyway
Pentax K10D + Vivitar 55/2.8 macro + Super Takumar 55/1.8 + SuperMultiCoated Takumar 85/1.8 + SuperMultiCoated Takumar 135/3.5 + SuperMultiCoated Takumar 200/4 + Super Takumar 300/4
Pentax K100D + DA18-55ALII + DA55-300
Pentax K5 + FA31Ltd + M50/1.7 + DFA100WR + M120/2.8 (+ DA18-55WR at occasion)

screwdriver222

Link Posted 03/09/2013 - 16:30
Thank for taking the time to reply.

The link was informative, I think the general consensus was to add the extension length to the focal length of the lens. So in my case with all the tubes attached 60mm + 50 mm for the lens. I had started putting in 50mm and then putting in about 150mm. Now I shall try 110mm.

I am trying out my 30 odd year old M50 f1.7 with a brand new el cheapo set of extension tubes. I am getting shots of insects; flies, bees, crickets and the magnification must be 2 or 3 to 1. I am getting about 1 shot in 10 in focus on the head of the insect, but the end of the lens is only 2 or 3 inches away from the insect. I don't want to set up a tripod at the moment, I like to walk around to take pictures of what ever I can find.

I need the scrape the paint off my tubes before I can get CIF to work.

Anyway thanks again
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stratosk

Link Posted 01/11/2013 - 14:03
Sorry to bring this old thread up, but i am interested to try macro shots with a similar setup (M50 f2), on my k10d but i don't know which tubes to buy. Looking for something cheap. Which ones do you have screwdriver222?

I ask because i read a buyers comment on amazon.co.uk for a cheap set, which it jammed on his camera and i am a little bit afraid to try.
Last Edited by stratosk on 01/11/2013 - 14:05

screwdriver222

Link Posted 01/11/2013 - 19:53
Hi

These are the ones I got link. They're cheap but they work. I had to wait a few weeks for them. Any set will do so long as they fit Pentax k mount.
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SteveEveritt

Link Posted 02/11/2013 - 11:03
If you can find them, look out for the Jessops ones with the contacts, it means you can control the aperture from the camera, this allows you to see your subject better because the aperture is wide open until you shoot. It just makes life so much easier.
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"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans" (John Lennon)

DRM098

Link Posted 06/11/2013 - 13:33
If you think the investment is justified you can't beat automatic tubes that incorporate electric contacts, that way you have (in theory) full control of the lens. Harrison Cameras, for example, do a set for 160. By the way I've seen, but not tried, using a short tube (12mm) on a long (300mm) lens. Full frame of a butterfly at 2 metres range.

On the other hand you can get much cheaper ones, Ebay and Amazon have loads of them, usually around 10 to 20.

The cheapest ones have a drawback, in my opinion. They consist of three threaded rings with a K adapter at each end. They are a bit of a faff to use, and the aperture ring on the lens can end up anywhere and be difficult to read. However, they work (not surprising really) and if your budget is limited they get you started. These are typical.


Better are the ones that have k fittings at each end of each tube. Quicker to fit and the aperture ring is always the correct way up. I found a set by Ricoh on Ebay. I can't remember how much they were but probably about 20. You can see that there is a bayonet release button on each tube. These are Asahi, but identical to the Ricoh ones.


Of course both of these types are just tubes with no electrical connections so you will be using the camera in manual mode. Focus at full aperture then stop down. And to go back to the OP, yes you can do macro hand held if you have a very fast auto focus and use flash, but most of the time a tripod is essential, in which case SR should be off anyway.

David
K20D, Pentax 18-55AL II, Pentax-A 28mm f2.8, Pentax-M 50mm f1.7 (fabulous lens!), Pentax-m 100mm f4, Domiplan 50mm 2.8 M42, Lydith 30mm 3.5 M42 (10 blade iris!).
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Russ

Link Posted 06/11/2013 - 14:45
I have the cheap Ebay tubes and they work. I use them with a Pentax-M 28mm 2.8 and a Tokina ATX 35-70 2.8.
The DoF is so narrow that if there is a particular feature you are trying to image its extremely hard to keep it in focus. Just slightest motion from your body or hands completely changes the image. You'll need to stop down the lens quite a bit get back some of the DoF, which means running high iso to claw back some shutter speed. In the end its so much easier to just use a tripod and forget SR.

I was literally a couple of mm from the Toadstool and with the smallest tube fitted.

stratosk

Link Posted 07/11/2013 - 07:26
I finally bought a reverse ring from lens to lens. My father has some old m42 lenses from a Zenit SLR, and i will try fit them reversed on my 18-55mm. Hoping to post pics soon!

richandfleur

Link Posted 07/11/2013 - 08:35
Russ wrote:

The DoF is so narrow that if there is a particular feature you are trying to image its extremely hard to keep it in focus.

Try Focus Stacking
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