Macro on a budget?
Posted 12/12/2013 - 17:19
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Tubes and an old 50mm is pretty much the cheapest option you will get. However dragonflies tend to be a bit more difficult to get close to so popping an old manual 300mm on a 31mm tube will give you a higher magnification. Your best weapon is stealth though.
There's a whack of good gear here if you want to get into macro.
There's a whack of good gear here if you want to get into macro.
Flickr
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans" (John Lennon)
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans" (John Lennon)
Posted 12/12/2013 - 17:22
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Tubes? What's that then? Basically a tube? Does it harm IQ?
I don't mind using an manual focus lens as I am used to it.
I don't mind using an manual focus lens as I am used to it.
Posted 12/12/2013 - 17:22
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Would a tube on my 50mm lens give better results than the teleconverter I have been using?
Posted 12/12/2013 - 17:29
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Because the tube has no additional glass to interfere with the image that arrives at the sensor it will be sharper, and because it holds the lens further from the sensor it magnifies the subject hugely.
Example with a Pentax A 50mm f1.7, however you have to get very close. To successfully shoot damsells and dragons you will need to be further from your subject for two reasons. 1. they are twitchy and 2 they tend to be quite large and so to get them all in the picture you need to be some distance away.
Example with a Pentax A 50mm f1.7, however you have to get very close. To successfully shoot damsells and dragons you will need to be further from your subject for two reasons. 1. they are twitchy and 2 they tend to be quite large and so to get them all in the picture you need to be some distance away.
Flickr
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans" (John Lennon)
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans" (John Lennon)
Posted 12/12/2013 - 17:33
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OK. So why do people use teleconverters instead of tubes sometimes? It seems a tube is better if it doesn't degrade IQ?
So if I wanted to shoot a large insect using tubes - would I do that using a longer lens then?
Lenses I own - 10-24mm, 50mm, 50-135mm, 17-50mm
So if I wanted to shoot a large insect using tubes - would I do that using a longer lens then?
Lenses I own - 10-24mm, 50mm, 50-135mm, 17-50mm
Posted 12/12/2013 - 17:46
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I use tubes with a 50mm A F1.7, 70-210mm A f4 and a mint 100mm M F4 Macro - depending on the subject- all combinations give great results. The Raynox DCR snap-on macro is also worth trying- I have had some very nice pics using this lens on the 50mm 1.7 A.
Posted 12/12/2013 - 17:49
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Bloody hell Gary - I have just looked at your Flickr portfolio and WOW! Some absolutely stunning pics there mate - love your still life stuff too - they look amazing - are you using light painting on some of them as they look so unusual?
Posted 12/12/2013 - 17:56
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Thank you very much Jason. I sometimes use a small Maglite to 'paint' in areas that need a lift, especially with candlelight.
Posted 12/12/2013 - 17:57
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I am looking at these Raynox things on eBay.
So if I get a Raynox DCR-250 and stick it on my Pentax 50-135mm f2.8 lens I'll be getting reasonable results do you think?
So if I get a Raynox DCR-250 and stick it on my Pentax 50-135mm f2.8 lens I'll be getting reasonable results do you think?
Posted 12/12/2013 - 18:15 - Helpful Comment
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Daydreamjay wrote:
What are my options for getting sharp, true 1:1 macro but on a budget? Is it possible? I really like the pin sharp photos of dragonflys etc and would like to have a go.
This might be of interest: http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/54-pentax-lens-articles/152336-cheap-macro-bu...
What are my options for getting sharp, true 1:1 macro but on a budget? Is it possible? I really like the pin sharp photos of dragonflys etc and would like to have a go.
Pentax K10D + Vivitar 55/2.8 macro + Super Takumar 55/1.8 + SuperMultiCoated Takumar 85/1.8 + SuperMultiCoated Takumar 135/3.5 + SuperMultiCoated Takumar 200/4 + Super Takumar 300/4
Pentax K100D + DA18-55ALII + DA55-300
Pentax K5 + FA31Ltd + M50/1.7 + DFA100WR + M120/2.8 (+ DA18-55WR at occasion)
Pentax K100D + DA18-55ALII + DA55-300
Pentax K5 + FA31Ltd + M50/1.7 + DFA100WR + M120/2.8 (+ DA18-55WR at occasion)
Posted 12/12/2013 - 18:23 - Helpful Comment
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Posted 12/12/2013 - 18:31 - Helpful Comment
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Macro lenses used to be 1:2, with a dedicated extension tube to increase the magnification to 1:1. So a tube is the best option and it will deliver what you need.
Your lens is a true macro lens and it's corrected accordingly. It will also have a nice flat field for photographing flat subjects such as documents.
Your lens is a true macro lens and it's corrected accordingly. It will also have a nice flat field for photographing flat subjects such as documents.
Best regards, John
Posted 12/12/2013 - 18:38
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You should at the long end, you may experience problems with vignetting at the wider end if your lens is not 'full frame' ie. older M and A.
Daydreamjay wrote:
I am looking at these Raynox things on eBay.
So if I get a Raynox DCR-250 and stick it on my Pentax 50-135mm f2.8 lens I'll be getting reasonable results do you think?
I am looking at these Raynox things on eBay.
So if I get a Raynox DCR-250 and stick it on my Pentax 50-135mm f2.8 lens I'll be getting reasonable results do you think?
Posted 12/12/2013 - 18:39
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Most of these macro shots were taken with a 50mm and tubes but the big emerging dragon was taken with a 180mm on tubes.


Flickr
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans" (John Lennon)
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans" (John Lennon)
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150 posts
15 years
I recently bought the manual focus 50mm f2.8 Macro lens and I really like it but it isn't true macro, it's only 1:2. I bought a Vivtar teleconverter but the resulting photos don't seem as sharp as they could be.
What are my options for getting sharp, true 1:1 macro but on a budget? Is it possible? I really like the pin sharp photos of dragonflys etc and would like to have a go.