Lens sharpness.
Posted 26/10/2009 - 21:26
Link
It would be a good idea to post both images, so we can see exactly what you shot.
As a general principle I would expect at close distances both to be sharp, but the 100mm macro to have the edge. However, this shouldn't be an issue in general photography, so seeing the images would be very useful.
As a general principle I would expect at close distances both to be sharp, but the 100mm macro to have the edge. However, this shouldn't be an issue in general photography, so seeing the images would be very useful.
Best regards, John
Posted 26/10/2009 - 21:26
Link
No answers but the DA* 300 is a very sharp lens.
Hyram
Bodies: K20D (2), K10D, Super A, ME Super, Auto 110 SLR, X70, Optio P70
Pentax Glass: DA* 300, DA* 60-250, DA* 50-135, DA* 16-50, DA 70 Ltd, FA 31 Ltd, DA 35 Ltd, DA 18-55 (2), DA 12-24, DA 10-17, M 200, A 35-70, M 40, M 28, Converter-A 2X-S, 1.4X-S, AF 1.7, Pentax-110 50, Pentax-110 24
Other Glass: Sigma 105 macro, Sigma-A APO 75-300
Flash: Metz 58 AF-1 P, Pentax AF160FC ringflash, Pentax AF280T
Bodies: K20D (2), K10D, Super A, ME Super, Auto 110 SLR, X70, Optio P70
Pentax Glass: DA* 300, DA* 60-250, DA* 50-135, DA* 16-50, DA 70 Ltd, FA 31 Ltd, DA 35 Ltd, DA 18-55 (2), DA 12-24, DA 10-17, M 200, A 35-70, M 40, M 28, Converter-A 2X-S, 1.4X-S, AF 1.7, Pentax-110 50, Pentax-110 24
Other Glass: Sigma 105 macro, Sigma-A APO 75-300
Flash: Metz 58 AF-1 P, Pentax AF160FC ringflash, Pentax AF280T
Posted 26/10/2009 - 21:39
Link
Somehow it seems that 50mm lenses are simple to make and the further away you get from that the harder it will be. (Maybe it has to do that 50mm is around neutral magnification, or whatever it is called?)
So yes I would expect a 300mm being less sharp then a 100mm one simply because of that.
So yes I would expect a 300mm being less sharp then a 100mm one simply because of that.
Posted 26/10/2009 - 21:47
Link
I would expect that sharpness would be the over-riding goal of a macro lens, and if another lens was sharper, I would wonder what was wrong with the macro.
G
G
Keywords: Charming, polite, and generally agreeable.
Posted 26/10/2009 - 21:47
Link
The easiest lens to make in a range is one slightly longer than a standard, so in 35mm film terms a 58mm is often found for faster lenses in the early days of SLRs.
But all lenses in a range should be sharp.
But all lenses in a range should be sharp.
Best regards, John
Posted 26/10/2009 - 21:54
Link
Um that would have been a good idea John - wouldn't it?
DFA 100
[IMG]http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/Oggy3323/Flower100.jpg[/IMG]
DA*300
[IMG]http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/Oggy3323/Flower300.jpg[/IMG]
DFA 100
[IMG]http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/Oggy3323/Flower100.jpg[/IMG]
DA*300
[IMG]http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc222/Oggy3323/Flower300.jpg[/IMG]
Posted 26/10/2009 - 22:10 - Helpful Comment
Link
Yes there is indeed a difference.
My suspicions would start with camera movement and subject movement. The tripod needs to be especially sturdy with the longer lens and the 2 second self timer is an excellent way to ensure that the shutter release does not shake the camera.
The subject should also be totally still as the slightest movement will ruin the shot.
The macro lens is of course ideal for shots like this, but I've also had excellent results with the 55-300mm zoom, albeit it at small apertures of f8, f11 or even f16.
My suspicions would start with camera movement and subject movement. The tripod needs to be especially sturdy with the longer lens and the 2 second self timer is an excellent way to ensure that the shutter release does not shake the camera.
The subject should also be totally still as the slightest movement will ruin the shot.
The macro lens is of course ideal for shots like this, but I've also had excellent results with the 55-300mm zoom, albeit it at small apertures of f8, f11 or even f16.
Best regards, John
Posted 26/10/2009 - 22:23
Link
Thanks John.
Subject is on our mantelpiece so hopefully fairly stationary.
Shots taken using the remote, but I'll have a go with with the two second delay to obviate mirror reaction.
The tripod - - it is a throwback to my OM1 days. I've been measuring up the chimney to see which Manfrottos would fit down it.
The DA* seems to do fine when used for aircraft.
Subject is on our mantelpiece so hopefully fairly stationary.
Shots taken using the remote, but I'll have a go with with the two second delay to obviate mirror reaction.
The tripod - - it is a throwback to my OM1 days. I've been measuring up the chimney to see which Manfrottos would fit down it.
The DA* seems to do fine when used for aircraft.
Posted 26/10/2009 - 22:27
Link
johnriley wrote:
The easiest lens to make in a range is one slightly longer than a standard, so in 35mm film terms a 58mm is often found for faster lenses in the early days of SLRs.
But all lenses in a range should be sharp.
Well yes all lenses should be sharp but relative to their focal length.The easiest lens to make in a range is one slightly longer than a standard, so in 35mm film terms a 58mm is often found for faster lenses in the early days of SLRs.
But all lenses in a range should be sharp.
Since the further away you move from 58mm the more you need to distort the image to fit on your sensor so to say.
What I'm trying to say is that it's easier to make a perfect 1x magnification then a 10x magnification, I know magnification isn't the right worth but it explains better what I'm trying to say here.
Posted 26/10/2009 - 22:33
Link
Something there rings a bell Stefan. It's about 35 years since I studied any optics, but the phrase "optical angles subtended" comes to mind.
Posted 26/10/2009 - 22:40
Link
Oggy diffraction is I believe what I meant, not sure though.
I'm quite sure the angles part has something to do with it.
I'm quite sure the angles part has something to do with it.
Posted 27/10/2009 - 14:02
Link
Hyram
Bodies: K20D (2), K10D, Super A, ME Super, Auto 110 SLR, X70, Optio P70
Pentax Glass: DA* 300, DA* 60-250, DA* 50-135, DA* 16-50, DA 70 Ltd, FA 31 Ltd, DA 35 Ltd, DA 18-55 (2), DA 12-24, DA 10-17, M 200, A 35-70, M 40, M 28, Converter-A 2X-S, 1.4X-S, AF 1.7, Pentax-110 50, Pentax-110 24
Other Glass: Sigma 105 macro, Sigma-A APO 75-300
Flash: Metz 58 AF-1 P, Pentax AF160FC ringflash, Pentax AF280T
Bodies: K20D (2), K10D, Super A, ME Super, Auto 110 SLR, X70, Optio P70
Pentax Glass: DA* 300, DA* 60-250, DA* 50-135, DA* 16-50, DA 70 Ltd, FA 31 Ltd, DA 35 Ltd, DA 18-55 (2), DA 12-24, DA 10-17, M 200, A 35-70, M 40, M 28, Converter-A 2X-S, 1.4X-S, AF 1.7, Pentax-110 50, Pentax-110 24
Other Glass: Sigma 105 macro, Sigma-A APO 75-300
Flash: Metz 58 AF-1 P, Pentax AF160FC ringflash, Pentax AF280T
Posted 27/10/2009 - 14:43
Link
The article Stefan linked to discusses optical principles, but we should remember that photographic lenses are not perfect lenses.
In theory, a lens should be at its best at open aperture, but we know this isn't the case. In practice the various compromises mean that the resolution follows a bell shaped curve - best at middle apertures between f5.6 and f11 depending on the design. At very small apertures like f22 diffraction causes a loss of resolution.
Resolution is the ability to reproduce fine detail and is different to sharpness. All correctly focused lenses should be sharp, but DOF and contrast will affect our perception of this dramatically.
The 300mm shots Hyram linked to show the advantages of a 300mm as a close up lens, but No. 3 is not particularly sharp. This is I think either limited DOF at close ditance or maybe subject/camera movement. At 300mm the slightest movement will show when close up. A 100mm macro is much easier to handle at the required distances.
In theory, a lens should be at its best at open aperture, but we know this isn't the case. In practice the various compromises mean that the resolution follows a bell shaped curve - best at middle apertures between f5.6 and f11 depending on the design. At very small apertures like f22 diffraction causes a loss of resolution.
Resolution is the ability to reproduce fine detail and is different to sharpness. All correctly focused lenses should be sharp, but DOF and contrast will affect our perception of this dramatically.
The 300mm shots Hyram linked to show the advantages of a 300mm as a close up lens, but No. 3 is not particularly sharp. This is I think either limited DOF at close ditance or maybe subject/camera movement. At 300mm the slightest movement will show when close up. A 100mm macro is much easier to handle at the required distances.
Best regards, John
Add Comment
To leave a comment - Log in to Pentax User or create a new account.



2406 posts
17 years
Worthing
this leaves me with two questions -
1/. What would others have expected?
2/. Should I be comparing both lenses fully open, or at F4 (their largest common aperture)?
Any thoughts appreciated.