LED Ring Lights
Posted 21/01/2010 - 00:46
Link
I've never used one but I'd imagine the (comparatively) low output would only be suitable for subjects that were very close to the lens. I'd be interested in your findings if you do buy one though!
Joining the Q
Posted 21/01/2010 - 06:34
Link
wrong light colour, too; there's no deep red available. If there was, I'd already be using LEDs not flashes...
Bret
Bret
my pics: link
my kit: K3, K5, K-01, DA 18-55, D-FA50 macro, Siggy 30/1.4, 100-300/f4, 70-200/2.8, Samsung 12-24/f4, Tamron 17-50, and lots of other bits.
my kit: K3, K5, K-01, DA 18-55, D-FA50 macro, Siggy 30/1.4, 100-300/f4, 70-200/2.8, Samsung 12-24/f4, Tamron 17-50, and lots of other bits.
Posted 21/01/2010 - 08:36
Link
Distance upto 1 metre according to the description.
At that price it is probably worth a punt
At that price it is probably worth a punt
Hyram
Bodies: K20D (2), K10D, Super A, ME Super, Auto 110 SLR, X70, Optio P70
Pentax Glass: DA* 300, DA* 60-250, DA* 50-135, DA* 16-50, DA 70 Ltd, FA 31 Ltd, DA 35 Ltd, DA 18-55 (2), DA 12-24, DA 10-17, M 200, A 35-70, M 40, M 28, Converter-A 2X-S, 1.4X-S, AF 1.7, Pentax-110 50, Pentax-110 24
Other Glass: Sigma 105 macro, Sigma-A APO 75-300
Flash: Metz 58 AF-1 P, Pentax AF160FC ringflash, Pentax AF280T
Bodies: K20D (2), K10D, Super A, ME Super, Auto 110 SLR, X70, Optio P70
Pentax Glass: DA* 300, DA* 60-250, DA* 50-135, DA* 16-50, DA 70 Ltd, FA 31 Ltd, DA 35 Ltd, DA 18-55 (2), DA 12-24, DA 10-17, M 200, A 35-70, M 40, M 28, Converter-A 2X-S, 1.4X-S, AF 1.7, Pentax-110 50, Pentax-110 24
Other Glass: Sigma 105 macro, Sigma-A APO 75-300
Flash: Metz 58 AF-1 P, Pentax AF160FC ringflash, Pentax AF280T
Posted 21/01/2010 - 09:29
Link
Barrie
If you do go ahead, could you post your experience with it please? I'm interested in this. Thanks.
Tony
If you do go ahead, could you post your experience with it please? I'm interested in this. Thanks.
Tony
Posted 21/01/2010 - 09:38
Link
I saw a thread about something similar recently, including some sample pics (which were surprisingly good). Will see if I can re-locate it.
Tim
AF - Pentax K5, Sigma 10-20/4-5.6, Tamron 17-50/2.8, Sigma 30/1.4, Sigma 70-200/2.8, Tamron 70-300/4-5.6
MF - Vivitar CF 28/2.8, Tamron AD2 90/2.5, MTO 1000/11
Stuff - Metz 58 AF1, Cactus v4, Nikon SB24, Raynox 150, Sigma 1.4x TC, Sigma 2x TC, Kenko 2x macro TC, Redsnapper 283 tripod, iMac 27”, Macbook Pro 17”, iPad, iPhone 3G
Flickr • Fluidr • PPG • Street • Portfolio site
Feel free to edit any of my posted photos! If I post a photo for critique, I want brutal honesty. If you don't like it, please say so and tell me why!
AF - Pentax K5, Sigma 10-20/4-5.6, Tamron 17-50/2.8, Sigma 30/1.4, Sigma 70-200/2.8, Tamron 70-300/4-5.6
MF - Vivitar CF 28/2.8, Tamron AD2 90/2.5, MTO 1000/11
Stuff - Metz 58 AF1, Cactus v4, Nikon SB24, Raynox 150, Sigma 1.4x TC, Sigma 2x TC, Kenko 2x macro TC, Redsnapper 283 tripod, iMac 27”, Macbook Pro 17”, iPad, iPhone 3G
Flickr • Fluidr • PPG • Street • Portfolio site
Feel free to edit any of my posted photos! If I post a photo for critique, I want brutal honesty. If you don't like it, please say so and tell me why!
Posted 21/01/2010 - 18:19
Link
bretti_kivi wrote:
wrong light colour, too; there's no deep red available. If there was, I'd already be using LEDs not flashes...
Bret
What is the difference between the light generated by LED and Flash? And how would it show on the image?
wrong light colour, too; there's no deep red available. If there was, I'd already be using LEDs not flashes...
Bret
Barrie - Too Old To Die Young
https://pentaxphotogallery.com/artists/barrieforbes
https://www.flickr.com/photos/189482630@N03/
https://pentaxphotogallery.com/artists/barrieforbes
https://www.flickr.com/photos/189482630@N03/
Posted 21/01/2010 - 18:40
Link
Tim
AF - Pentax K5, Sigma 10-20/4-5.6, Tamron 17-50/2.8, Sigma 30/1.4, Sigma 70-200/2.8, Tamron 70-300/4-5.6
MF - Vivitar CF 28/2.8, Tamron AD2 90/2.5, MTO 1000/11
Stuff - Metz 58 AF1, Cactus v4, Nikon SB24, Raynox 150, Sigma 1.4x TC, Sigma 2x TC, Kenko 2x macro TC, Redsnapper 283 tripod, iMac 27”, Macbook Pro 17”, iPad, iPhone 3G
Flickr • Fluidr • PPG • Street • Portfolio site
Feel free to edit any of my posted photos! If I post a photo for critique, I want brutal honesty. If you don't like it, please say so and tell me why!
AF - Pentax K5, Sigma 10-20/4-5.6, Tamron 17-50/2.8, Sigma 30/1.4, Sigma 70-200/2.8, Tamron 70-300/4-5.6
MF - Vivitar CF 28/2.8, Tamron AD2 90/2.5, MTO 1000/11
Stuff - Metz 58 AF1, Cactus v4, Nikon SB24, Raynox 150, Sigma 1.4x TC, Sigma 2x TC, Kenko 2x macro TC, Redsnapper 283 tripod, iMac 27”, Macbook Pro 17”, iPad, iPhone 3G
Flickr • Fluidr • PPG • Street • Portfolio site
Feel free to edit any of my posted photos! If I post a photo for critique, I want brutal honesty. If you don't like it, please say so and tell me why!
Posted 21/01/2010 - 18:46
Link
Sorry If I offend But yesterday I used a Pentax Ring Flash for portrait in a barbers shop.
Question
Flash on the front of the lens (how do you avoid red eye) never had this in the studio or with a metz cl45 hammer, but towards the end of the shoot I tried the Ring flash ???
James
Question
Flash on the front of the lens (how do you avoid red eye) never had this in the studio or with a metz cl45 hammer, but towards the end of the shoot I tried the Ring flash ???
James
Posted 21/01/2010 - 19:00
Link
bforbes wrote:
Well the colour is different and most have a narrow spectrum of light.bretti_kivi wrote:
wrong light colour, too; there's no deep red available. If there was, I'd already be using LEDs not flashes...
Bret
What is the difference between the light generated by LED and Flash? And how would it show on the image?wrong light colour, too; there's no deep red available. If there was, I'd already be using LEDs not flashes...
Bret
They could make a RGB led system, and if I'm correct they could make that so that you can balance that. I'm not 100% sure about this though...
Stefan
K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ
K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ
Posted 21/01/2010 - 19:03
Link
pink wrote:
Flash on the front of the lens (how do you avoid red eye) never had this in the studio or with a metz cl45 hammer, but towards the end of the shoot I tried the Ring flash ???
It's of course Direct light a ringflash, the red is from the retina (choroid to be more precise) of the eye, the blood in there make it red. You sine directly light in someone eyes then of course that will bounce back and pick up the colour of the blood...Flash on the front of the lens (how do you avoid red eye) never had this in the studio or with a metz cl45 hammer, but towards the end of the shoot I tried the Ring flash ???
Indirect light is the solution or don't let them look into the lens, there might be other solutions but those are all I can think off...
What red-eye reduction does is give a bright flash so the the iris close and that restricts the light of getting in the eye, problem is that it doesn't look so good.
Stefan
K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ
K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ
Posted 21/01/2010 - 19:31
Link
look at page 5 of this: http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLamp7090XR-E.pdf
That dip represents no light falling on your subject.
Demo: three shots; one auto WB, another Tungsten and another with an MJ-Drop-in for Maglite 2AA (which has been machined but nothing else), so it's a standard Nichia 60mA superflux white LED.
I'll let you guess which is which. The pens are Shinhan Touch markers.
Processing in camera, no GIMP or UFRaw.
Bret
That dip represents no light falling on your subject.
Demo: three shots; one auto WB, another Tungsten and another with an MJ-Drop-in for Maglite 2AA (which has been machined but nothing else), so it's a standard Nichia 60mA superflux white LED.
I'll let you guess which is which. The pens are Shinhan Touch markers.
Processing in camera, no GIMP or UFRaw.
Bret
my pics: link
my kit: K3, K5, K-01, DA 18-55, D-FA50 macro, Siggy 30/1.4, 100-300/f4, 70-200/2.8, Samsung 12-24/f4, Tamron 17-50, and lots of other bits.
my kit: K3, K5, K-01, DA 18-55, D-FA50 macro, Siggy 30/1.4, 100-300/f4, 70-200/2.8, Samsung 12-24/f4, Tamron 17-50, and lots of other bits.
Posted 21/01/2010 - 19:47
Link
Bret, a RGB led system should solve that problem.
Don't know if there are systems that are photography orientated and use such set-up though...
Don't know if there are systems that are photography orientated and use such set-up though...
Stefan
K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ
K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ
Posted 21/01/2010 - 20:39
Link
it won't, unfortunately, solve the problem completely, though it does improve it.
If you know you're working at 5600K - which is where I want to be, most of the time - then you can get a pretty good WB. However, not all of the colours will be represented properly IMO. I'd have to try (I have a cree Q3 5600K neutral white here, waiting to go into the kitchen) and see what happens.
This one's quite interesting: http://www.coolon.com.au/download/ColourMixing.pdf
- and there's no way you're going to get binned 5mm LEDs. I was going to do something with 7 K2 Leds - red, red-orange, amber, green, cyan, blue and royalblue - to try and simulate very high CRI (color rendering index) but have been distracted with more important stuff.
Another link: http://www.crcc.cnrs.fr/IMG/pdf/DiodesElectroLuminescentes_AIC2005_Vienot-Mahler...
Bret
If you know you're working at 5600K - which is where I want to be, most of the time - then you can get a pretty good WB. However, not all of the colours will be represented properly IMO. I'd have to try (I have a cree Q3 5600K neutral white here, waiting to go into the kitchen) and see what happens.
This one's quite interesting: http://www.coolon.com.au/download/ColourMixing.pdf
- and there's no way you're going to get binned 5mm LEDs. I was going to do something with 7 K2 Leds - red, red-orange, amber, green, cyan, blue and royalblue - to try and simulate very high CRI (color rendering index) but have been distracted with more important stuff.
Another link: http://www.crcc.cnrs.fr/IMG/pdf/DiodesElectroLuminescentes_AIC2005_Vienot-Mahler...
Bret
my pics: link
my kit: K3, K5, K-01, DA 18-55, D-FA50 macro, Siggy 30/1.4, 100-300/f4, 70-200/2.8, Samsung 12-24/f4, Tamron 17-50, and lots of other bits.
my kit: K3, K5, K-01, DA 18-55, D-FA50 macro, Siggy 30/1.4, 100-300/f4, 70-200/2.8, Samsung 12-24/f4, Tamron 17-50, and lots of other bits.
Posted 21/01/2010 - 20:45
Link
Stefan
I know how to avoid and correct red eye But, there must be a way of avoiding the red eye if you look at the link in Tim's post the ring flash is reflected in the little girls' eyes with out red eye
james
I know how to avoid and correct red eye But, there must be a way of avoiding the red eye if you look at the link in Tim's post the ring flash is reflected in the little girls' eyes with out red eye
james
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6913 posts
17 years
Co. Durham UK
https://pentaxphotogallery.com/artists/barrieforbes
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