K3 vs K3 ii


Link Posted 22/09/2020 - 14:26
roberrl wrote:
Going back to the OP's original question concerning K3s vs K70 vs KP - any views?
I was hoping that K-new would answer my requirements but that seems less and less likely now I've seen the various Pentax produced videos.
It lacks a flippy screen and it's not likely to have improved video.
I have a KS2 and a K5iiS and I was hoping for something like a merger of these two with technical improvements.
Now the obvious suggestion would be the KP but I have tried one and for the first time in 60 years I picked up a Pentax which did not fall into my hands and feel comfortable.
So does the KP become more comfortable with use? Does the K70 offer any real improvement over the KS2?
Should I keep my money until a new consumer level body becomes available

I would say yes from my personal experience - I went from a K-S2 to a K-70 and the low light abilities and breadth of manipulating 14bit RAW vs 12bit RAW made a difference for me. Depending on whether you do either one or the other, it might hold enough weight to upgrade. The K-S2's seem to still fetch a reasonable price, so you could recuperate some money that way. That said, if you're happy with the K-S2, stick with it. I found mine a great little camera.

Disclaimer: I'm the type who gets reasonably bored of my equipment reasonably quickly, or I'll dive into an item, find something that I'm not particularly happy with and keep hunting for that 'grail' object. Ergo, I've gone from the K-S2 to K-70 to K-1 and now to a Sony A7iii within around 4 years. From those, and looking back on the photos, they're all more than capable in their own rights, and especially in image quality.


Link Posted 22/09/2020 - 22:00
FWIW, not being a "critical user", my K-3 & K3 II are now "out and about" only when I go to airshows (etc.), and thus "rarely" this year! - otherwise it's the K-70 for most "out & about stuff" because it's lighter, works well in most situations, and produces "fantastic" images (when I "get it right" - which is "not always" the case!).

The 2yr warrantee (Ricoh, via SRS) runs out early next year - but there's a "white" solenoid "in the cupboard" in case of "APB" and I think (or at least, I hope) that Asahi Photo can replace the "green" one if and when "necessary"!
K-3 II, K-3 and a K-70 from SRS (having now relegated the K-30 /"K-50" to a backup body), & some Sigma and Pentax lenses (and a lot of old 35mm gear!)
Last Edited by jeallen01 on 22/09/2020 - 22:05


Link Posted 24/09/2020 - 08:16
A couple here have said that pixel shift hardly gets used but it really depends on your subject matter. I use it often for static shots where I want the maximum possible definition, for example an elaborate church interior which I can print large, or documenting artworks. I can see it being useful for product and still life shots as well.


Link Posted 24/09/2020 - 23:32
Rob, when you write that you "can print large", how large are they for pixel shift to make a visible difference in normal viewing?



Link Posted 25/09/2020 - 08:44
MrB wrote:
Rob, when you write that you "can print large", how large are they for pixel shift to make a visible difference in normal viewing?


I haven’t made a direct comparison between prints with and without PS of the same subject, the largest sheet I can print at present is A3+ but if I get everything right and there is lots of fine detail in the subject the results are stunning. I could get larger using a roll although that would rapidly deplete the small ink cartridges so I am tempted by a new A2 printer, in which case it is good to know that the photos are “future-proof”.

I have also been photographing sculptures and carvings for a national database, sometimes in tricky lighting conditions, and I have found zooming in on the computer reveals a bit more detail with PS. I could be wrong here but recovering detail in shadow areas appears easier with less noise. One time I made the elementary error of photographing an outside sculpture with lots of texture using PS only to find of course on the computer screen the background trees had pixelated due to wind. I returned later for a second single shot from the same position but as the sculpture was then in shadow the detail wasn’t there, however I was able to blend the two in Photoshop to get a clean background on my original shot.
Last Edited by RobL on 25/09/2020 - 08:45


Link Posted 25/09/2020 - 17:20
With reference to the original question:

I exchanged my K-S2 for the K-7 and still have my K-3ii.

The K-3ii is a better build and more comprehensively specified camera, and for this reason I keep it. The K-70 however is lighter, has a flip out and tiltable rear screen, and uses a superior sensor which gives a less noisy raw file at high iso. Although superficially and in terms of build quality similar to the K-S2 is a significant step up in terms of image quality, and has important features such as pixel shift.

But if you can wait for the new APS-C, you will have greater choice and lower prices on all other models.
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