K10d Mulitple Exposure Mode

duroo72
Posted 22/06/2008 - 19:09 Link
Hello all ,
did the usual today read my k10d manual not bad as i only got the camera a few months ago! im interested in the multiple exposure mode and was gona have a go.
Anyone got some examples they could post or advice would be helpful - cheers.
Nimitz
Posted 22/06/2008 - 22:17 Link
I just posted 2 images done by HDR with 5 shots (bracketed). I used Photomatrix to make the HDR image and the tonemapping.

Check the photo section...
hefty1
Posted 22/06/2008 - 22:50 Link
Not the greatest of photos, but this was 3 exposures using the multi-exposure mode (auto EV adjust on):

Comment Image


Particularly useful when you want to remove people from a scene, take long exposures without ND filters or shooting at high ISO's with negligible noise. I'm sure there are many other uses but I don't have the imagination...
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duroo72
Posted 22/06/2008 - 22:57 Link
Quote:
I just posted 2 images done by HDR with 5 shots (bracketed). I used Photomatrix to make the HDR image and the tonemapping.

Check the photo section...
Thankyou for the reply but i didnt mean auto exposure bracketing , i was referring to multi exposure upto 9 frames?
Nimitz
Posted 22/06/2008 - 22:58 Link
lol ok...never mind then
duroo72
Posted 22/06/2008 - 22:59 Link
Quote:
Not the greatest of photos, but this was 3 exposures using the multi-exposure mode (auto EV adjust on):

Comment Image


Particularly useful when you want to remove people from a scene, take long exposures without ND filters or shooting at high ISO's with negligible noise. I'm sure there are many other uses but I don't have the imagination...
nice one , so for being slow but how does it remove people from a scene?
i thought of a few uses - fireworks night explosion , people walking in and out of shots , birds feeding , football being kicked , cars travelling etc etc.
hefty1
Posted 22/06/2008 - 23:07 Link
When you take a series of shots (with the averaging feature switched on) then only those things that appear stationary in *every* shot end up making the final picture - transient parts of the scene (people walking past etc) are averaged out and either appear as faint ghosts or not at all, depending on the length of the individual exposures and the number of them used to make the final composite. You'll need to experiment a bit to get what you're after and by bracketing the shots you can get a pseudo-HDR effect (like above - taken at +1/0/-1EV). I've played with it a bit and come up with some interesting effects - not neccessarily what I've set out to achieve but interesting nonetheless!
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Don
Posted 22/06/2008 - 23:55 Link
try three shots, on a tripod, first two in focus third out of focus....(trees,flowers, landscapes etc).

try nine shots of a rock, or tree or other stationary object where you got moving water/grass/clouds filling most of the frame.

try three shots with a red green then blue filter on each shot (stationary shots should come out normal, moving elements (like clouds) will be colored.
Fired many shots. Didn't kill anything.
hefty1
Posted 23/06/2008 - 00:52 Link
Quote:
try three shots with a red green then blue filter on each shot (stationary shots should come out normal, moving elements (like clouds) will be colored.
Not tried that one yet - I'll have a go this week.
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duroo72
Posted 23/06/2008 - 22:52 Link
Thankyou you all for all your excellent replys - you guys certainly know these cameras inside out!
As soon as i find a suitable subject ill give it a go.

p.s i live near port lympne and howletts and was going to snap some tigers and gorillas does anyone know which will fill my needs best?
hefty1
Posted 23/06/2008 - 23:40 Link
Which what will fill your needs best? What sort of pictures are you hoping to achieve? The multi exposure mode isn't really all that great for action shots unless you can control the action - lions and gorillas aren't exactly known for working to scripts...
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hefty1
Posted 24/06/2008 - 00:24 Link
Some nice shots there, I especially like the second and fourth ones!

I guess the trick with this sort of photography is patience, waiting for the moment when your subject acts in a photogenic manner. If it were me I'd set the exposure values and focus manually in advance and keep watching - that way when the decisive moment happens the camera can react as quickly as you can press the shutter. At long focal lengths you'll be contending with shake so keep your shutter speed high and I'd go for a medium aperture to allow a decent depth of field (around f8-f11), if the light's less than perfect then you may want to crank up the ISO to allow both these things to happen. Take a few test shots first and check your results on the LCD - tweak camera settings to taste.

Good luck!
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duroo72
Posted 24/06/2008 - 00:27 Link
ok cheers hefty , would anyone know out of port lympne and howletts which is the best for photographing tigers and gorillas?
Mannesty
Posted 24/06/2008 - 07:11 Link
Quote:
ok cheers hefty , would anyone know out of port lympne and howletts which is the best for photographing tigers and gorillas?
Nope. So you'll have to visit both . . . then you can let us know.
Peter E Smith - flickr Photostream

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