k10d lightrooom settings

I was working in RAW+ and took a bunch of pictures. When post processing I noticed the JPEF picture had the perfect blue sky in Lightroom but the PEF had a rather pale blue sky. Does anyone know what settings I can use in Lightroom to replicate the Pentax in camera JPG conversion from the RAW file?

Lightroom is a non-destructive editor so you can try almost anything. A history of your actions is stored and you can wind back to the original and start again at anytime.

That said, you could start by using Auto-Tone, if it is turned off, or turn it off if it is turned on. It's an option in the import dialog box.

I had issues with some images a while ago and I traced the problem to the fact that Auto-Tone was being used during import.

Just don't be frightened to have a go, you'll not harm the original as the changes you make don't directly affect it.

thanks

i have tried a lot of settings and i can't quite get it right. i am not afraid to experiment but i could be at it for the next couple of months. i don't have that amount of time available hence my post

Boosting contrast and/or blacks often does wonders for pale images.

Edit: You could try one of the built-in presets.

It is not a pale image. I will post a print grab of the raw and jpeg files this evening and it may help to describe what i mean.

I use autotone on import into lightroom as a matter of course. this gives me a good base to work from.

The other thing to do, if it is only the blue sky you want to change, is alter the saturation/lightness of blue/aqua in the image. Don't darken too much though as it gets quite grainy.

Hi Eric

I created three custom presets for the K10D, on the Develope screen set the the Camera Calibration to either Pentax 1.0 or ACR4 (I found ACR to be the better of the two). Start of with a well exposed image, leave everything at "as shot" and then adjust the calibration sliders to get the image colours to your satisfaction then save this as a Develope pre set. I have one with clarity set to zero (for portraits), another with it set to 25 (general) and the third one set to 50 (landscape, macro).

I'll post some numbers this evening when I get home.

Hope this helps.

i would appreciate that Brian. thanks

Hi Eric

Here's the numbers I use in LR1.4.




Hope they work as well for you as they do for me

thank you very much brian.

here are some images that hopefully explain further. i want to get the raw file to look like the jpeg with a lightroom export to tiff say. both are straight out of the camera and taken using RAW+JPEG

RAW






JPEG

I think you just need to experiment. I find that one 'generic' setting to increase contrast, lighten exposure but deepen blues, will not work on many other images.

As I said, I use auto tone to give a working baseline, I see if the image is worth keeping, then work on each image to get the best out of it. The settings for one won't necessarily work for another.

you wouldn't use exactly the same darkroom procedure to print each negative, you look at what you have, decide on how best to get the look you want for that image, then base your workflow around the desired end result.

I don't use Lightroom, but I agree with justgetoutandride. I use the automatics to give me a place to start, then tweek until I'm happy.

In most cases the baseline doesn't look as good as the camera JPG, but by the time I'm finished tweeking it usually looks better.


The beauty of RAW is you can always scrap what you've done and start over without any fear of having damaged the original file. Don't understand what a particular slider does? grab it and pull! There's nothing like experimentation to show you what will happen.