K10D and kickboxing

ibcsweb
Posted 12/10/2008 - 22:25 Link
Hi All!
Just returned from a kickboxing competition where flash photography is banned. Believe me when I tell you that using flash there would be a really bad idea. The problem is that I cannot get a decent shot of my son while he is fighting. I only have a kit lens at present. I need get a much better result for his next competition or the wife will be after me. I only have around £150 to spend. Is it posible to get a good shot in low light with fast action and no flash for this money? Or am I wasting my time?
Pentax K10D 18-55 Kit Lens, Sigma 70-300, Photoshop CS (for now).
hefty1
Posted 12/10/2008 - 22:45 Link
Yes it is possible - buy a fast lens (the fastest "new" lens in the lineup is the Pentax FA50/1.4) and use the wider aperture this gives you. 50mm is a good length for this sort of photography anyway and the lens itself is of exceptional quality.

Married bliss is henceforth ensured...
Joining the Q
Mannesty
Posted 12/10/2008 - 23:25 Link
Welcome to the forum.

Your only real options are to use a faster lens and/or faster ISO. The latter increases the risk of digital noise in the shadows. The K20D produces less noisy images than the K10D at higher ISO settings.

About the fastest Pentax lens you'll find are the 50mm 1:1.2 lenses in various forms. The A version is to be preferred but the older K version is also very good. You'll not run into the metering/exposure issues that are well documented elsewhere here, because you'll presumably use the lens wide open at f1.2. The FA 50mm 1:1.4 is a good option too, cheaper, and only half stop slower than the f1.2 lenses.
Peter E Smith - flickr Photostream
Edited by Mannesty: 12/10/2008 - 23:33
ChrisA
Posted 12/10/2008 - 23:43 Link
How close are you to the action?
.
Pentax K-3, DA18-135, DA35 F2.4, DA17-70, DA55-300, FA28-200, A50 F1.7, A100 F4 Macro, A400 F5.6, Sigma 10-20 EXDC, 50-500 F4.5-6.3 APO DG OS Samsung flash SEF-54PZF(x2)
.
womble
Posted 12/10/2008 - 23:51 Link
If you manage to pick up a cheap lens (SMC-Pentax A 50mm F1.4 goes for about £60 on ebay but is manual focus) you could spend the change on Noise Ninja to help reduce the digital noise from using a high ISO.

Good luck. Kris.
Kris Lockyear
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
pentaxian450
Posted 13/10/2008 - 00:25 Link
Could you post some pictures with EXIF data? It could help us help you. Some people are giving suggestions, but we are all shooting in the dark. We need to know what ISO, shutter speed and so on to give accurate information.
Yves (another one of those crazy Canucks)
ibcsweb
Posted 14/10/2008 - 09:14 Link
ChrisA wrote:
How close are you to the action?
About 12ft for the Boston comp but this will alter with each venue.
Pentax K10D 18-55 Kit Lens, Sigma 70-300, Photoshop CS (for now).
ibcsweb
Posted 14/10/2008 - 09:16 Link
pentaxian450 wrote:
Could you post some pictures with EXIF data? It could help us help you. Some people are giving suggestions, but we are all shooting in the dark. We need to know what ISO, shutter speed and so on to give accurate information.
I will try. I am using Picassa for archiving at the moment and it seems to give all that info so as soon as my parents go home I will have a go at uploading the least awful of the images with info attatched.
Pentax K10D 18-55 Kit Lens, Sigma 70-300, Photoshop CS (for now).
Nimitz
Posted 14/10/2008 - 10:39 Link
Not to let you down - but in dark conditions I doubt you will get ultra pin sharp images when the action is on. You will have motion blur from kick and punches.

To actually freeze these fast movements you will need a shutter speed faster than 1/500 I recon. When indoor - if poorly lit - (regardless of glass) this would be impossible. (Usually I shoot indoors in churches and so for weddings. I rarely get shutterspeeds faster than 1/125 to 1/250 #F.2.8, iso 800 - I do not want to use iso 1600 on the k10d.)

Instead you should work on using the motion as a part of the picture. This gives a great "action" effect to the shot.

I think we had some boxing shots up a while ago. They were brilliant. I can not remember who did them.

Another thing you need to have in mind is the focal lenght of the lens. The longer (more mm) - the more motion blur/shaking. Perhaps a monopod could help you.

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