Issue when using a ND filter.
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Don't have any experience of the Tiffen 3.0 nd myself so unfortunately can't help with that directly, but do shoot with nd filters a fair bit. All 10 stop filters that I've used have had a colour cast of some kind (I always have white balance set either to AWB or daylight): B&W tend to have a magenta cast (often tricky to remove in post), HiTech a bright blue cast and low contrast (sometimes tricky to fix in post), Lee blueish cast (always possible in my experience to remove in post). I use Lr5, and adjust white balance manually. Just wondering if you're shooting RAW or jpeg? RAW files should usually be recoverable, jpegs less so. Otherwise, am as baffled as you. Good luck with the investigations!
Best
Bill
BillWardPhotography
Hi Peter
Don't have any experience of the Tiffen 3.0 nd myself so unfortunately can't help with that directly, but do shoot with nd filters a fair bit. All 10 stop filters that I've used have had a colour cast of some kind (I always have white balance set either to AWB or daylight): B&W tend to have a magenta cast (often tricky to remove in post), HiTech a bright blue cast and low contrast (sometimes tricky to fix in post), Lee blueish cast (always possible in my experience to remove in post). I use Lr5, and adjust white balance manually. Just wondering if you're shooting RAW or jpeg? RAW files should usually be recoverable, jpegs less so. Otherwise, am as baffled as you. Good luck with the investigations!
Best
Thanks Bill!
I always shoot RAW and was surprised as well I couldn't recover any in Lightroom.
this was with a Camdiox 77mm 3.0 off Ebay, no real colour cast at all, very impressed certainly at the price point, i believe there are others here that use these and were equally impressed which is why i bought mine.tried Cokin and early Hi-Tech both gave colour casts. this was shot with auto WB

odd lens or 2
Flickr
If anything, the Haida gives a very mild warming effect, which is quite nice and not unnatural, but all colours in the original scene are preserved and it is easy to tweak the WB in post processing if required. I bought the slimline version of the Haida 10 stopper in 77m diameter specifically for use with the 12-24 and I use it with adaptor rings for lenses that have a narrower diameter. From memory, it cost me approximately £55, which for a 10 stopper of this quality is a bargain.
Regards
David
Flickr
Nicola's Apartments, Kassiopi, Corfu
Some cameras, some lenses, some bits 'n' bobs

I have the Tiffen ND 3.0 filter in 52mm (£19.90 from Ebay).
About the WB settings, I have tried the settings with and without the filter on.
I bought this filter last week as it was recommended by a friend who is using the same filter (not on Pentax gear) without any issues aside from some colour cast, he is suggesting to swap our filters (luckily we using both 52mm) and see what happens then. Just wondering if I might have received a faulty copy...
Regards, Peter
It seems that from a quick google search you are not alone in experiencing problem with the tiffen filter link
today’s digital sensors are adversely affected by light outside of the visible spectrum - especially when using higher density ND filters. Infrared contamination causes black areas of the image to appear various shades of brown and purple. For extremely dark attenuation (16 stops for example used in fine art) infrared contamination will brighten the foliage to the point that the images appear as if they were taken with Infrared Film. The ProStop IRND filter is designed to eliminate the infrared contamination, increasing the quality and contrast of your images and allows you to shoot wide open during daytime with high sensitivity sensors with beautiful results.
From link
This is of interest to me as I have it in my mind to have a go with a strong ND filter at some point.
So when David Storm mentioned his Haida filter I went looking for an equivalent. I found that there are 2 versions. 1 standard ND filter and one with infared capabilities also. On delving deeper I think this could be your issue. Look for IRND filters on Google and see what people are saying about them. But it seems that at higher densities, the IR "light" will affect modern digial sensors a great deal more than photographic film, hence the need to filter that too.
I might be completely wrong as I am no expert, but it might be worth a bit of further research.
Just found this thread which might be useful...
link
Andy
Flickr
Website
Tiffen XLE Filters
From article/press relase
allow stills photographers to capture extreme long exposure images without incurring the red colour cast that occurs when photographers use high-density ND filters to shoot long exposures during daylight hours. Many camera sensors are sensitive to infrared wavelengths when they are exposed for prolonged periods and record this light as a slight warm red tint on some sensors, to an extreme red tint on other sensors in very bright conditions
K30pete
Member
Stirlingshire
This weekend I had my first attempt with long exposure shots and have used a Tiffen ND 3.0 filter on a 18-55WR lens. I went through the white balance settings during shooting as well during processing in Lightroom but no green colours at all in my images.
Just wondering what I'm doing wrong?
Regards, Peter