Infra Red
Posted 18/06/2012 - 15:03
Link
Can't help, Ken, but your first attempt is a heck of a lot better than anything I managed. The trees are excellent.
I'd read that images taken with the IR filter needed very long exposures, but, like you, found that 1/30 or so was enough.
I'd read that images taken with the IR filter needed very long exposures, but, like you, found that 1/30 or so was enough.
Posted 18/06/2012 - 18:24
Link
AND IF YOU'RE USING INFRARED FILM ,IS THERE A NEED FOR RED FILTERS ALSO like wratten 81B . What's happening when there is no use of redfilter with infrared inside the keep-on laughing- box?
Posted 18/06/2012 - 18:38
Link
Mode>Desaturate is the way to go if there is only a red image. presumably you have used an IR filter. If there's a bit of colour then Channel Mixer first.
After that, levels or curves should be enough to create the optimum effect.
After that, levels or curves should be enough to create the optimum effect.
Best regards, John
Posted 18/06/2012 - 22:49
Link
Set the WB off grass, or set it as low as possible, on the K7 its 2500. In LR I can lower it to 2000. Then desaturate for B+W.
One day you'll find, 10yrs have got behind you.
Posted 19/06/2012 - 07:55
Link
Thanks everyone, i'll play around some more in the local park this morning.
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Posted 19/06/2012 - 09:44
Link
Just a thought off the top of my head...
Perhaps it wouldn't be a bad idea to have a camera colour profile specifically for IR?
Not sure if anyone's done one, but there's no reason why the camera profile can't yank everything into the world of grey-scale, or at least some kind of decent range for working with colour (and then the B&W conversion).
EDIT: See here - http://stevencastle.wordpress.com/2010/07/17/processing-infrared-shots-in-adobe-...
Matt
Perhaps it wouldn't be a bad idea to have a camera colour profile specifically for IR?
Not sure if anyone's done one, but there's no reason why the camera profile can't yank everything into the world of grey-scale, or at least some kind of decent range for working with colour (and then the B&W conversion).
EDIT: See here - http://stevencastle.wordpress.com/2010/07/17/processing-infrared-shots-in-adobe-...
Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)
(For gallery, tips and links)
Posted 19/06/2012 - 09:51
Link
What filter are you using? If it's 720nm, then you need to get the WB right. In-camera it can be done by setting the WB on sunlit grass (or white paper if there's no grass available), but ACR and Lightroom will still make the image look red as they only go down to 2000K. You can make a custom camera profile using Adobe DNG Profile Editor, or I can send you one I made if you like. This allows you to get different colours in the image, which will give you far more control if you want a mono image, by means of using the channel mixer to convert it to monochrome.
If you are using an 830nm filter, setting the WB in camera should give you images that look mono straight from the camera. 830nm images can be processed by desturation as there should be hardly any colour in the first place, but you'll lose detail and contrast using it on 720nm images.
It looks like there is a hot-spot in your image, I have found that most lenses have less tendency towards producing hot-spots if you keep the aperture around f5.6, at f8 and smaller they get worse.
Edit: I have put a couple of links in the General Digital Photography section that are worth looking at.
If you are using an 830nm filter, setting the WB in camera should give you images that look mono straight from the camera. 830nm images can be processed by desturation as there should be hardly any colour in the first place, but you'll lose detail and contrast using it on 720nm images.
It looks like there is a hot-spot in your image, I have found that most lenses have less tendency towards producing hot-spots if you keep the aperture around f5.6, at f8 and smaller they get worse.
Edit: I have put a couple of links in the General Digital Photography section that are worth looking at.
Posted 19/06/2012 - 11:13
Link
Pentaxophile wrote:
Daz, you have some nice IR shots... which filter are you using with your K7? I always thought the K7 (unmodded) wasn't great for IR photography.
Im using a cheapy of ebay, neewer 720nm.
Daz, you have some nice IR shots... which filter are you using with your K7? I always thought the K7 (unmodded) wasn't great for IR photography.
One day you'll find, 10yrs have got behind you.
Posted 19/06/2012 - 11:30
Link
aliengrove wrote:
What filter are you using? If it's 720nm, then you need to get the WB right. In-camera it can be done by setting the WB on sunlit grass (or white paper if there's no grass available), but ACR and Lightroom will still make the image look red as they only go down to 2000K. You can make a custom camera profile using Adobe DNG Profile Editor, or I can send you one I made if you like. This allows you to get different colours in the image, which will give you far more control if you want a mono image, by means of using the channel mixer to convert it to monochrome.
If you are using an 830nm filter, setting the WB in camera should give you images that look mono straight from the camera. 830nm images can be processed by desturation as there should be hardly any colour in the first place, but you'll lose detail and contrast using it on 720nm images.
It looks like there is a hot-spot in your image, I have found that most lenses have less tendency towards producing hot-spots if you keep the aperture around f5.6, at f8 and smaller they get worse.
Edit: I have put a couple of links in the General Digital Photography section that are worth looking at.
It is 720nm, I'll try the WB suggestion but will that make any difference to a RAW image?
What filter are you using? If it's 720nm, then you need to get the WB right. In-camera it can be done by setting the WB on sunlit grass (or white paper if there's no grass available), but ACR and Lightroom will still make the image look red as they only go down to 2000K. You can make a custom camera profile using Adobe DNG Profile Editor, or I can send you one I made if you like. This allows you to get different colours in the image, which will give you far more control if you want a mono image, by means of using the channel mixer to convert it to monochrome.
If you are using an 830nm filter, setting the WB in camera should give you images that look mono straight from the camera. 830nm images can be processed by desturation as there should be hardly any colour in the first place, but you'll lose detail and contrast using it on 720nm images.
It looks like there is a hot-spot in your image, I have found that most lenses have less tendency towards producing hot-spots if you keep the aperture around f5.6, at f8 and smaller they get worse.
Edit: I have put a couple of links in the General Digital Photography section that are worth looking at.
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Posted 19/06/2012 - 16:27
Link
Yes, getting the WB right makes a huge difference to the final image. I have found it much easier to adjust the WB in ACR if the WB was set in the camera, even though it will still look pink when you import it into Bridge or Lightroom. I adjust one image of a similar batch in ACR using a custom profile, import them all into Lightroom, then copy and paste the settings from hte adjusted image onto the other images from the same batch before processing them either as colour or mono images.
Add Comment
To leave a comment - Log in to Pentax User or create a new account.



6724 posts
20 years
Glasgow,
Scotland
I shot RAW at 200ISO f5.6 at 1/30. All guess work really but does anyone have sound advice in coverting from a very red image to mono? This was done by desaturating at the RAW conversion.
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -