HISTOGRAMS
Posted 26/05/2009 - 08:30
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I would prefer to get a decent looking photograph than a 'decent looking histogram'.
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
Posted 26/05/2009 - 08:44
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I only use the histogram to check for blown highlights. Even then the camera histogram often tells porkies.
I would never delete anything based on the histogram. That is quite a bizarre way to work.
Surely you look at the image?
All sorts of errors can be recovered back home.
I would never delete anything based on the histogram. That is quite a bizarre way to work.
Surely you look at the image?
All sorts of errors can be recovered back home.
Posted 26/05/2009 - 09:09
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If I am taking a series of shots in similar conditions I check the histogram on the firs one and then just carry on shooting. I never delete anythything until I am back on the computer.
Processing and creative cropping has produced many a shot I am happy to keep.
Processing and creative cropping has produced many a shot I am happy to keep.
Posted 26/05/2009 - 09:12
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DERYN wrote:
1: how could I be sure they weren't any good ?
2: Is looking at the histogram a reliable way of prechecking whether a photo is any good or not ?
DERYN
1: Don't delete anything in camera unless you are short of memory.1: how could I be sure they weren't any good ?
2: Is looking at the histogram a reliable way of prechecking whether a photo is any good or not ?
DERYN
2:The histogram will give you a good indication of whether a shot is a keeper or not if you know how to interpret it properly.
Here is a good tutorial on understanding histograms.
Peter E Smith - flickr Photostream
Posted 26/05/2009 - 09:15
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The histogram is only showing you how many pixels there are of each brightness level from 0-255. If you had a spotlit tree against a dark background your histogram would heavily be on the left, and so it should.
I think it would be very wise if you stopped looking at the histogram until you are back at the computer and look at the images first. Then by all means look at the histogram and learn to use what it is telling you.
I suspect a lot us users do not really understand what the histogram is and are looking for a nice even shape that rises in the middle and goes to either end. That's fine for an average subject full of midtones, but it's meaningless unless related to the scene being shot.
I think it would be very wise if you stopped looking at the histogram until you are back at the computer and look at the images first. Then by all means look at the histogram and learn to use what it is telling you.
I suspect a lot us users do not really understand what the histogram is and are looking for a nice even shape that rises in the middle and goes to either end. That's fine for an average subject full of midtones, but it's meaningless unless related to the scene being shot.
Best regards, John
Posted 26/05/2009 - 21:36
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Hi guys, you've made me realise that I'm paying much to much attention to the in camera histogram. I've been deciding on keepers based on the histogram even before viewing the photo ! I shall certainly stop doing that and concentrate more on composing the picture then reviewing it later on the computer.
DERYN
DERYN
Posted 26/05/2009 - 21:40
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In the tuturial that Mannesty posted there is a good piece of information:
Quote:
As mentioned earlier, with the exception of a histogram that is very heavily bunched up to the right (overexposed) there really isn’t such a thing as a “bad” histogram, or for that matter a “good” one. The histogram simply shows you the way things are, and its then up to you to decide if what it is telling you needs to be acted upon.
allso some good information:As mentioned earlier, with the exception of a histogram that is very heavily bunched up to the right (overexposed) there really isn’t such a thing as a “bad” histogram, or for that matter a “good” one. The histogram simply shows you the way things are, and its then up to you to decide if what it is telling you needs to be acted upon.
Quote:
To stuff 8 stops worth of dynamic range into a recorded image that can only handle 5 stops your choices are....
— use balanced fill flash on the foreground
— use a graduated neutral density filter
— take multiple exposures and merge them digitally
— go home
To stuff 8 stops worth of dynamic range into a recorded image that can only handle 5 stops your choices are....
— use balanced fill flash on the foreground
— use a graduated neutral density filter
— take multiple exposures and merge them digitally
— go home
Camera:K20D|Ist*DS|Spotmatic II|MZ-10
Pentax Lenses: DA16-45|DA50-200|50A 1.7
Tamron Lenses: 28-200
Takumar Lenses: SMC 55 1.8
Sigma Lenses: EX DG 50-500 'Bigma'|EX 50mm Macro
Flashes: Metz 58 AF-1|Samsung SEF-36PZF|Pentax AF-220T
Pentax Lenses: DA16-45|DA50-200|50A 1.7
Tamron Lenses: 28-200
Takumar Lenses: SMC 55 1.8
Sigma Lenses: EX DG 50-500 'Bigma'|EX 50mm Macro
Flashes: Metz 58 AF-1|Samsung SEF-36PZF|Pentax AF-220T
Posted 26/05/2009 - 22:23
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More helpful than the histogram, I find, is the Bright/Dark Area warning. This shows what parts of the image are totally blown or black. It's quicker to "read" than a histogram too.
The histogram, when you understand it, can be useful as well, but remember that there is leeway when it comes to post processing. It may not quite be optimal, but it doesn't matter very much if you have to adjust the brightness/contrast of an image as long as no parts of it (that are important to you) are off the edge of the scale.
The histogram, when you understand it, can be useful as well, but remember that there is leeway when it comes to post processing. It may not quite be optimal, but it doesn't matter very much if you have to adjust the brightness/contrast of an image as long as no parts of it (that are important to you) are off the edge of the scale.
~Pete
Posted 27/05/2009 - 09:12
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Hi, on my compact camera I usually find the bright/dark area warning very useful to prevent blown highlights. I havn't come across this on the K10.
DERYN
DERYN
Posted 27/05/2009 - 09:39
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DERYN wrote:
Hi, on my compact camera I usually find the bright/dark area warning very useful to prevent blown highlights. I havn't come across this on the K10.
DERYN
It's a setting in the menu... look for it or read in the manual.Hi, on my compact camera I usually find the bright/dark area warning very useful to prevent blown highlights. I havn't come across this on the K10.
DERYN
shim
Posted 27/05/2009 - 09:53
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I'm just an amateur and use the histogram to indicate areas of weakness in my setup. I take another shot on different settings to see if I can improve and learn. Sometimes a shot may appear under-exposed etc...but the shot was good otherwise...dare I say it?....thank heavens for Photo Premium 10 S/W.
Rob
Rob
K20D
MZ 50
Pentax lenses....DA* 55mm f1.4 SDM ....F 35-80 f4-5.6....DA 18-250 f3.5-6.3....F 100-300 f4.5-5.6, D FA Macro 100 WR f2.8.
Centon mirror lens 500mm.
Pentax Flash ....AF 360FGZ
JVC 3ccd GZ MC 500EK camcorder
MZ 50
Pentax lenses....DA* 55mm f1.4 SDM ....F 35-80 f4-5.6....DA 18-250 f3.5-6.3....F 100-300 f4.5-5.6, D FA Macro 100 WR f2.8.
Centon mirror lens 500mm.
Pentax Flash ....AF 360FGZ
JVC 3ccd GZ MC 500EK camcorder
Posted 27/05/2009 - 22:30
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Peased Im not the only one who suffers from the histogram LOL.I sometimes spend ages trying to overcome the same problem trying out a number different settings.
Ian
Ian
Posted 27/05/2009 - 23:01
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DERYN wrote:
Hi, on my compact camera I usually find the bright/dark area warning very useful to prevent blown highlights. I havn't come across this on the K10.
You do have that option on your K10D too. Go to the Playback menu and see Playback display and Instant Review.
Hi, on my compact camera I usually find the bright/dark area warning very useful to prevent blown highlights. I havn't come across this on the K10.
~Pete
Posted 28/05/2009 - 08:53
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Thanks very much, I've got that sorted now. It is probably just me but I don't find the manual very user friendly at all.
The light and dark function is useful for me as I do a lot of shooting in the mountains and the coast and the sky can sometimes prove a problem with blowing highlights. (will sort some filters out when I can afford it)
thanks again and brilliant place to get problems sorted, well done Pentaxuser.
DERYN
The light and dark function is useful for me as I do a lot of shooting in the mountains and the coast and the sky can sometimes prove a problem with blowing highlights. (will sort some filters out when I can afford it)
thanks again and brilliant place to get problems sorted, well done Pentaxuser.
DERYN
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DERYN