Help to switch at Pentax KP from K-3
My own thought is to limit the higher ISOs when possible too, but if you need a higher ISO to get the shot then do so. Might be better to increase the ISO than suffer camera shake or to get sufficient depth of field. I'd hope both cameras would be fine up to 3200 (and beyond) in any event.
If noise is your major concern, look to get a K-5 or a K-1 which have a lower pixel density hence less noise. (Or even a 645D.)
This site https://www.imaging-resource.com/IMCOMP/COMPS01.HTM shows images taken at a range of ISOs for comparison purposes.
My own thought is to limit the higher ISOs when possible too, but if you need a higher ISO to get the shot then do so. Might be better to increase the ISO than suffer camera shake or to get sufficient depth of field. I'd hope both cameras would be fine up to 3200 (and beyond) in any event.
If noise is your major concern, look to get a K-5 or a K-1 which have a lower pixel density hence less noise. (Or even a 645D.)
Many thanks
But if you're going from the K-3, consider the cost, FPS burst and also the single card slot as they might be important to you.
I must admit though, i did like the 2 card slots on the K3 but i just use a 32gb card now instead so no big deal.
Michael
For me, regarding 'noise' the k3 was not even as good as the k5 so i swapped mine for a KP and i'm so glad i did, it's much better at high ISO than both the K3 and the K5.
I must admit though, i did like the 2 card slots on the K3 but i just use a 32gb card now instead so no big deal.
Many thanks to your help.
But do you see an advantage (less noise) already from ISO 800?
What do you consider for high iso (start Iso 800 or 1600)?
Thank you
Then too, I most always shoot in the manual mode. I have played around with the TAv mode (because urged to do so by some forum members) and gotten some noise with some of the TAv constructs but then perhaps I didn't do better because my heart wasn't in it.
Lawrence
For me, regarding 'noise' the k3 was not even as good as the k5 so i swapped mine for a KP and i'm so glad i did, it's much better at high ISO than both the K3 and the K5.
I must admit though, i did like the 2 card slots on the K3 but i just use a 32gb card now instead so no big deal.
Many thanks to your help.
But do you see an advantage (less noise) already from ISO 800?
What do you consider for high iso (start Iso 800 or 1600)?
Thank you
Well anything above ISO 1600 on the K3ii I found almost unusable for printing even at A4. With the KP I'm happy to go up to ISO 6,400. The KP at ISO 800 is definitely better than the K3ii, but then so is the K5.
I used to consider High ISO to start around 800 but since using the KP I would say 1600 upwards
Michael
Does the K-P perform well in RAW format, as I heard the new accelerator chip was for use on JPEGs only? Not sure on this one.
At all times though its important to work out what can be saved in post (noise on a blurred background doesn't matter if you apply noise reduction) and what can't without losing detail you do need. Noise in group shots is especially difficult for example, as each face is smaller than a single up close portrait. Flicking to B&W often sees noise appear as grain, which isn't too bad at times.
Yeah both my cameras (K-S1 and K-3) are capped in auto iso modes at 3,200. I'll only go beyond that if it's really really necessary for the shot.
Does the K-P perform well in RAW format, as I heard the new accelerator chip was for use on JPEGs only? Not sure on this one.
At all times though its important to work out what can be saved in post (noise on a blurred background doesn't matter if you apply noise reduction) and what can't without losing detail you do need. Noise in group shots is especially difficult for example, as each face is smaller than a single up close portrait. Flicking to B&W often sees noise appear as grain, which isn't too bad at times.
I never use Jpegs so I can't compare but I'm quite happy with RAW at ISO 3,200.
I'll have to try a few Jpegs just to see
Michael
Yeah both my cameras (K-S1 and K-3) are capped in auto iso modes at 3,200. I'll only go beyond that if it's really really necessary for the shot.
Does the K-P perform well in RAW format, as I heard the new accelerator chip was for use on JPEGs only? Not sure on this one.
At all times though its important to work out what can be saved in post (noise on a blurred background doesn't matter if you apply noise reduction) and what can't without losing detail you do need. Noise in group shots is especially difficult for example, as each face is smaller than a single up close portrait. Flicking to B&W often sees noise appear as grain, which isn't too bad at times.
DPR criticised the K-1 mark II for including the accelerator chip's noise reduction in the RAW so there was no way to avoid it. I imagine that the KP does the same.
Fan of DA limited and old manual lenses
Thanks again and have a nice day.
Antonio from Italy
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10 posts
10 years
I've an Pentax K-3 and usually I shot to max Iso800 to limit the luminance noise.
I ask to the Pentax KP and K-3 (both) owners if the Pentax KP at ISO 800/1600 has less noise respect/than K-3.
Many thanks to the community.
(excuse me to my imperfect english)
Bye