Fireworks

jeffstclair
Posted 25/10/2010 - 15:07 Link
Hi advice please although I've worked with pyrotechnics on and off for 20 years I've never taken any photos of fireworks in action , cos I'm to busy while the show is on. I'm working on a show in Carlisle next month and I want to have a go at trying to capture some of the thrill of fireing a few thousand quids worth of top class pyro.... any tips..jeff
pentaxian450
Posted 25/10/2010 - 16:27 Link
You need to install your camera on a tripod. ISO 100 with 30 sec exposures at f:8 generally gives decent pictures. Use the 2 sec. delay or a remote to trigger the camera. A wide angle lens gives better results than a telephoto. When setting up your camera on the tripod, try to include something in the foreground (building, tree top...) so you have a reference as to which way is top and bottom.

You'll have a serious advantage on most people, since you won't have to anticipate the action. You'll know the firing sequence, so you'll be able to trigger the camera at the right time to get the best pieces.

Have fun!
Yves (another one of those crazy Canucks)
jeffstclair
Posted 25/10/2010 - 16:58 Link
Thanks pentaxian450 I've been thinking about this while I was walking the dogs you know I'm torn between trying to capture the aerial stuff or the action on the ground ei a row of 20 6 or 8 inch pots firing in rapid succesion,the smoke, the fuse catching,or trying to freeze a large shell leaving the pot , you know serious hard hat stuff ... Jeff
Anvh
Posted 25/10/2010 - 17:54 Link
One thing with the long exposures though is that you get several fireworks in the same frame.
Simply use the bulb mode and press it to start the exposure and release it to end the exposure, everything between that is captured, that way you've some control what's on the frame and not.

The 2 second delay isn't needed because it's a long exposure so that tenth of a second the camera moves would hardly have any effect on the photo.

jeffstclair wrote:
you know I'm torn between trying to capture the aerial stuff or the action on the ground
But the action on the ground is preparation right?
I don't think someone pushing buttons during the actual show is that exciting
Stefan
Comment Image

K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ
Edited by Anvh: 25/10/2010 - 17:56
jeffstclair
Posted 25/10/2010 - 18:07 Link
Hi Stefan .. I will be in with the racks of pyro as it's firing ! we have a fail safe on all shows. The problem is do I want to have a Camera in that enviroment now that is very exciting
jeffstclair
Posted 25/10/2010 - 18:10 Link
I've just noticed I'm a Site Veteran... I Must be really old...Jeff
Anvh
Posted 25/10/2010 - 18:13 Link
You would need to shoot from a tripod though, i don't think it's safe with the legs in the dark though but that's for you to judge.
For the rest i don't see a problem with using the camera there just clean the camera with a slightly moist cloth to wipe all the residue of the fireworks away.
I know very little about fireworks though so maybe you can come up with a good idea why not to shoot there.

If you've a fish eye lens you could capture the sky and the pods going off if you place the camera lower.
The only problem is that you can't stand near the camera or else you will be on it so you need to use a remote.
Stefan
Comment Image

K10D, K5
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, D-FA 100 Macro, DA 40 Ltd, DA 18-55
AF-540FGZ
Hyram
Posted 25/10/2010 - 18:15 Link
A hand held DA* 50 - 135 is what I use (+ a camera body).

A tripod is way too restrictive IMHO
Hyram

Bodies: K20D (2), K10D, Super A, ME Super, Auto 110 SLR, X70, Optio P70
Pentax Glass: DA* 300, DA* 60-250, DA* 50-135, DA* 16-50, DA 70 Ltd, FA 31 Ltd, DA 35 Ltd, DA 18-55 (2), DA 12-24, DA 10-17, M 200, A 35-70, M 40, M 28, Converter-A 2X-S, 1.4X-S, AF 1.7, Pentax-110 50, Pentax-110 24
Other Glass: Sigma 105 macro, Sigma-A APO 75-300
Flash: Metz 58 AF-1 P, Pentax AF160FC ringflash, Pentax AF280T
MrCynical
Posted 25/10/2010 - 21:24 Link
The other thing to consider is how to take the picture. It sounds like you won't necessarily be 'at' the camera when the picture needs to be taken. In that case you need the Pentax Remote F, though I'm not sure what the range on it is.
pentaxian450
Posted 26/10/2010 - 00:10 Link
jeffstclair wrote:
I've just noticed I'm a Site Veteran... I Must be really old...Jeff
Do you think you can reach Stefan's number of post?

As for Stefan's trick of using B and starting the exposure with one push, and ending it with a second push, it doesn't work with all Pentax cameras, which is why I suggested using 30 sec. exposures.
Yves (another one of those crazy Canucks)
ISO
Posted 26/10/2010 - 10:40 Link
A Head Torch is useful too
ISO
Posted 27/10/2010 - 11:43 Link
Gareth - in the dark bits, you know between each firework going off - you need to be able to find your beer glass
jeffstclair
Posted 27/10/2010 - 15:19 Link
Many thanks all you lot , I'm leaving for the UK in the morning ' I'll take on board all the tips that I've got from this thread and maybe post some photos later , I'll be in Carlisle on friday the show is on saturday the 6th
... Any good second hand camera shops in Carlisle?? Jeff

Add Comment

To leave a comment - Log in to Pentax User or create a new account.



Proudly supporting Pentax User

Samsung Logo Asahi Pentax Logo