Exposure settings with ND Filters
Also, if you're using live view, this is not a reliable means to check the brightness of your images ... You'd have to check the actual settings and take test shots to be sure.
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
With no ND the light through the lens and through the eyepiece are going to be close enough.
With an ND, any light through the eyepiece will make the camera think the scene is brighter than it is (and will underexpose as you found out!).
Can't remember if there's an eyecap included with the K5... probably (and most wonder what it's for! :lol
Matt
(For gallery, tips and links)
Nigel - no, I didn't use the Green button. Instead I reset it to zero manually, using the front wheel. I guess it has the same effect but the Green button is quicker so thanks for the heads-up.
Matt - so that will be the little plastic thing that I've just found unused at the bottom of the box then
Shame you have to remove the rubber eyecup to use it but I'll certainly give it a try next time - sounds like a good theory to me !
Regards
Nigel
The green button ensures that a new reading is taken, and so should produce the equivalent EV brightness, although with settings that are allowing more light in than before, compensating for the filter. Hope this and Matt's suggestions will help... Let us know how you get on.
Pentax K7 with BG-4 Grip / Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC / DA18-55mm f3.5-5.6 AL WR / SMC A28mm f2.8 / D FA 28-105mm / SMC F35-70 f3.5-4.5 / SMC A50mm f1.7 / Tamron AF70-300mm f4-5.6 Di LD macro / SMC M75-150mm f4.0 / Tamron Adaptall (CT-135) 135mm f2.8 / Asahi Takumar-A 2X tele-converter / Pentax AF-540FGZ (I & II) Flashes / Cactus RF60/X Flashes & V6/V6II Transceiver
I use an iPhone app to tell me the settings I need, based on a correctly exposed test shot.
Shooting in full Manual (like real manual with a fixed ISO) so nothing can vary during shots.
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262 posts
14 years
Dorset
Without the filter and using Manual exposure set to 0, the results are as expected and the exposure is correct.
If I then use the 0.9 ND, I re-set the Manual exposure to 0. However, the result is very under-exposed and (using the image below as an example) I had to then increase the exposure by 2 to 3 stops in Lightroom. Obviously I could have instead added exposure compensation at the the time of shooting.
I expected the K5 to still work out the correct exposure (ie at 0) when using the 0.9. I realise that using something like a Big Stopper you have to manualy over-compensate because it is so dense but I thought a 3-stop filter was still clear enough for exposure to be calculated automatically in-camera.
Hope this makes sense. Can someone please confirm or correct me ?
Many thanks
Nigel
Nigel
www.nigelstridephotography.co.uk