Ditch RAW+Jpeg bracteted for RAW alone?

When I'm shooting Jpeg I tend to bracket the exposure by 1/2 or 2/3 stops. I started this on the GX10 and I was very happy with the Jpeg quality out of the camera. Pick the best exposure.

Maybe I'm a bit more demanding or I'm pixel peeping but I'm less happy with the Jpeg and using RAW more on the K-7.

However I'm using the RAW+Jpeg format and this takes up a lot of space.

So should I ditch the JPeg altogether ?
And can I ditch the bracketing?

Looking at the RAW the bracketing just results in different developing of the same RAW to various Jpeg exposures. Rarely do the RAW frames produce different results.

Can I safely risk just shooting raw? Once? Or should I keep eating up the memory cards? Views and insight welcome please.

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EDIT: don't you hate proofing the message and posting to find the thread title is garbage!!!

Never bothered with the RAW + jpeg option (although think that if I get the jpeg settings right in camera, it could be a good thing to try).

However, I tend to use just RAW, and often leave the dynamic range on with the K-7 (limiting base ISO to 200) to help retain highlights. Works well for me most of the time. I usually check histogram on taking the shot, and try a diff exposure if it doesn't look right.

IMHO you can safely just use RAW!

Andy

I've played around a lot with the various options and my preferred options are now:

Personal work: RAW
Studio: almost always JPEG
Work where the client will see all the work quickly online: RAW+

Reasons: personal work is mostly grabbed in unpredictable circumstances, I went through a spell using RAW+ in the studio and then realised everything ended up as a jpeg at the end of the day and there was never a need to sort out colour balance or exposure issues. In the third instance the client can see everything and I only have to polish the ones required.

Just shoot RAW alone if you're happy with the conversion process.

The dynamic range even of RAW is not fantastically large, so don't rely on post processing too much for exposure level.

Bracketing with RAW takes up a lot of memory space. Save it for when you're rushed and not confident of getting the desired exposure at the first attempt.

Otherwise just examine the image in camera with the histogram and flashing highlights/shadow display, and be prepared to take another shot with a manual adjustment.

doug ...

I use RAW bracketing on certain occasions and there is definitely a difference. I only ever add JPG to that if I am away from my PC and want to have an easily accessible image to show.

Thanks folks, I had a problem with DCU earlier, crashing so couldn't check this. The question about RAW bracketing was as follows.

In the DCU I can adjust the exposure +/- 3EV so covers my +/- 2/3 on the camera?

If I want I can do RAW+ for the odd image.
I can develop a RAW to Jpeg in camera.

OK, going to try a week on RAW only. RAW button set to RAW+ (one shot).
No bracketing. (unless I chicken out).

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At the moment I'm using 3*25MB = 75MB for each shot, bracketing and RAW + Jpeg. Using RAW alone (15MB, over estimate) and one shot my card will last longer on holiday 5 times longer, 500 images per 8GB card. No wonder I'm running low on disk space.

You can adjust exposure in raw, but it will only move the "central" exposure of your picture, it won't be able to stop clipped highlights or lowlights. You will still need to bracket if you are unsure of exposure!

I'm not sure you are entirely understanding the difference - RAW is not such magic that can pull information out of nowhere. In-camera JPG is just a RAW that the camera has applied some basic presets to. If a jpg is clipped, the raw that it came from was almost certainly clipped as well! The reason a RAW can look like its found information that a JPG didn't is simply because the camera made a "guess" as to where the central exposure point & range was, instead of you fiddling on the computer afterwards.

To simplify the numbers and formulas : if a pixel as shot has a value between 0 and 10, a RAW pixel will be 0,1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9, or 10. A JPG pixel will be 0,2,4,6,8,10. 0 is still 0 and 10 is still 10.

i.e. Shoot RAW so you can get more detail in post-production, but it will NOT stop you needing to Bracket exposure.

that isn't strictly accurate.

RAW files are 12 bit compared to JPGs 8. In english, RAW pixel values run from 0 to 4095 where JPG pixel values are 0 to 255.

RAW to JPG processing works by throwing away some of that information. Depending on the settings, it will be somewhere between picking 256 levels out of the 4096 available, and re-scaling the full range so it fits into 256 levels.

In reality there is also a tone curve applied, and white balance which is essentially applying a slightly different tone curve to each of the three channels.


The ability to apparently tweak exposure on RAW files comes from the fact that the RAW to JPG conversion almost always looses information of both ends of the exposure.

It's always best to get it right in camera though, boosting exposure in RAW conversion amplifies noise while while trying to reduce the exposure often results in blown highlights.

I did say it was simplified!

you did, sorry I didn't mean to offend but felt it was simplified to an extent which could cause misunderstanding.

my version is still simplified since I've glossed over what tone curves and white balance do, darn this stuff gets complex if you let it!

In case it's still not clear to Doug....

If you adjust the "exposure" with software afterwards, sometimes you will blow the hightlights or loose detail. The appearance of noise can be exaggerated as well.

In actual fact the software is not really adjusting the exposure because the exposure has already been made. It's essentially just brightening or dimming the image. But only so much can be done before detail is lost.

So, aim to get a shot within about 0.7 EV* of the end result at the time of capture. Use bracketing or manual adjustments when they will help. That doesn't mean you need to use bracketing all the time.

* You may not always succeed and it may not always matter, but try.

Soooooo, I either bracket on RAW and only save the Jpeg file sizes which aren't so significant.

Or I get a bit more, shoot review, shoot review.

I've gone through the histograms of a few bracket RAWs and can see the differences.

Thanks folks.

I guess the answer is upgrade the laptop and get bigger memory cards. Or become a better photographer!

You sure this is what Cambridge in colour has to say about it. link

OK new wide lens or Sekonic?

Doug, where do you need the light meter for?
Just an question powered by my curiosity