Bigma or camera?
Posted 21/06/2010 - 16:29
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Graham,
For all difficult AF situations I would suggest the following setup (if you haven't got it already!):
* Disable the AF-on-half-press in the custom options
* Use the "AF" button on the back to do a manually triggered AF
This helps in very low light and/or low contrast situations, as well as situations where timing is everything.
Simply estimate where the subject is going to be, find an item that's at the same distance (but has some decent contrast) - point the camera at that and hit the AF button to get a lock.
Now, when you hit the shutter (because the bird has just come into view) it will occur immediately without any focus-hunting.
Hope that helps!
Matt
For all difficult AF situations I would suggest the following setup (if you haven't got it already!):
* Disable the AF-on-half-press in the custom options
* Use the "AF" button on the back to do a manually triggered AF
This helps in very low light and/or low contrast situations, as well as situations where timing is everything.
Simply estimate where the subject is going to be, find an item that's at the same distance (but has some decent contrast) - point the camera at that and hit the AF button to get a lock.
Now, when you hit the shutter (because the bird has just come into view) it will occur immediately without any focus-hunting.
Hope that helps!
Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)
(For gallery, tips and links)
Posted 21/06/2010 - 16:41
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Were you using a mono or tripod (I'm guessing not a tripod if they're moving around)? That may help the stability. If they are going in and out of the same place then a tripod would surely be best but you'd only get a few attempts.
If it's getting dark and the light is changing then autofocus would be a problem with fast moving subjects. I think you would struggle with any lens/camera in those conditions. I would have maybe tried manual focus (or catch in focus if the k10d does it).
edit:
Matt's suggestion seems to be a good one (more detailed than my "I would maybe have tried manual focus" comment)
If it's getting dark and the light is changing then autofocus would be a problem with fast moving subjects. I think you would struggle with any lens/camera in those conditions. I would have maybe tried manual focus (or catch in focus if the k10d does it).
edit:
Matt's suggestion seems to be a good one (more detailed than my "I would maybe have tried manual focus" comment)
You will only prise my 43Ltd from my cold, dead hands...
Posted 21/06/2010 - 17:49
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Welcome to the forum Graham.
I have the same stability issues with my Bigma which spends most of its life attached to a monopod (with a ball head), this leaves the movement of the lens fairly flexible but eliminates the need to actually support it, a boon when the arthritis has flared up.
Yes, I've had problems with low light and focusing, the Bigma is a light hungry beast and doesn't perform very well if the light or the contrast is low, suggestions for other lenses have already been made so no need to repeat them.
I have the same stability issues with my Bigma which spends most of its life attached to a monopod (with a ball head), this leaves the movement of the lens fairly flexible but eliminates the need to actually support it, a boon when the arthritis has flared up.
Yes, I've had problems with low light and focusing, the Bigma is a light hungry beast and doesn't perform very well if the light or the contrast is low, suggestions for other lenses have already been made so no need to repeat them.
Posted 21/06/2010 - 22:40
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MattMatic wrote:
Graham,
For all difficult AF situations I would suggest the following setup (if you haven't got it already!):
* Disable the AF-on-half-press in the custom options
* Use the "AF" button on the back to do a manually triggered AF
This helps in very low light and/or low contrast situations, as well as situations where timing is everything.
Simply estimate where the subject is going to be, find an item that's at the same distance (but has some decent contrast) - point the camera at that and hit the AF button to get a lock.
Now, when you hit the shutter (because the bird has just come into view) it will occur immediately without any focus-hunting.
Hope that helps!
Matt
Good Tip Matt. Thanks. I was out in dimmer light last night and focus hunting was annoying. cheers
Graham,
For all difficult AF situations I would suggest the following setup (if you haven't got it already!):
* Disable the AF-on-half-press in the custom options
* Use the "AF" button on the back to do a manually triggered AF
This helps in very low light and/or low contrast situations, as well as situations where timing is everything.
Simply estimate where the subject is going to be, find an item that's at the same distance (but has some decent contrast) - point the camera at that and hit the AF button to get a lock.
Now, when you hit the shutter (because the bird has just come into view) it will occur immediately without any focus-hunting.
Hope that helps!
Matt
[i]Bodies: 1x K-5IIs, 2x K-5, Sony TX-5, Nokia 808
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Lenses: Pentax DA 10-17mm ED(IF) Fish Eye, Pentax DA 14mm f/2.8, Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8, Pentax-A 28mm f/2.8, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.2, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-FA 50mm f/1.4, Pentax-A 50mm f/1.7, Pentax DA* 50-135mm f/2.8, Sigma 135-400mm APO DG, and more ..
Flash: AF-540FGZ, Vivitar 283
Posted 22/06/2010 - 16:06
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Thanks everyone for the advice much appreciated will give Matt`s advice a go.Thanks again
Graham
Graham
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