Big Stopper


fritzthedog

Link Posted 27/12/2011 - 09:19
Having thought long and hard and finding I am being more and more drawn to playing with long exposure photography - have finally given in and ordered a Big Stopper.

Anybody got any experienced user tips - do's and don'ts that aren't obvious. One of the reasons I have been hankering after one of these is that I am particularly interested in making moving objects (e.g. people) vanish from building/ landscape shots.

Carl
No matter how many lenses I have owned - I have always needed just one more

johnriley

Link Posted 27/12/2011 - 09:39
It looks good if you get one person to stand absolutely still during the exposure, leaving everyone else as wisps moving around them.
Best regards, John

puma

Link Posted 27/12/2011 - 10:37
If your going to have a go with a big stopper? Try some like water Sea Rivers or on land try like john says, its great fun, but remember to shot in Raw as you can have a play with the White balance.
my web site http://www.swilsonphotography.foliopic.com/
PPG link

SteveT

Link Posted 27/12/2011 - 14:40
Looking at getting a big stopper myself.
Trouble it seems uncertain when they can deliver and i have heard talk of 6 months.

However I have come across the Hitech Pro Stop ND filters, make sure you get the pro version. Fits Lee filter holders too.

Theres a review here http://blog.robertstrachan.com/archives/1314/hitech-pro-stop-review/

Available direct for just 60 I think I am going to give one a go.
Available here http://www.formatt.co.uk/stills-filters/filters/standard-n-d/pro-stop.aspx
K20d
DA 12-24 | DA* 16-50 | DA* 50-135 | Sigma 100-300 F4
Lightroom 2, CS3
My FlickR

puma

Link Posted 27/12/2011 - 15:01
Did this with a ND10 stop





it cost me 90.00 for the ND but the shots iam doing now is worth the money and its a lot of fun to do.
my web site http://www.swilsonphotography.foliopic.com/
PPG link
Last Edited by puma on 27/12/2011 - 15:01

obione

Link Posted 27/12/2011 - 15:24
Puma,Is this taken along the bardsey coast road.
k-5, K-5ii,60-250 f4, 50 f1.4 af,17-70 f4, 100mm macro wr,siggy 10-20 siggy 100-300f4

puma

Link Posted 27/12/2011 - 15:26
obione wrote:
Puma,Is this taken along the bardsey coast road.





No it was taken in Llanddulas, Conwy North Wales
my web site http://www.swilsonphotography.foliopic.com/
PPG link
Last Edited by puma on 27/12/2011 - 15:27

fritzthedog

Link Posted 27/12/2011 - 17:05
puma wrote:
Did this with a ND10 stop





it cost me 90.00 for the ND but the shots iam doing now is worth the money and its a lot of fun to do.

Very nice Shaun
No matter how many lenses I have owned - I have always needed just one more

jeeess1967

Link Posted 27/12/2011 - 21:38
Hi, sorry to sound too less knowledgeable. What is this big-stopper please. Regards, Jeeess
K-5, K-7 and K10D, Pentax 18-135 WR,18-55 WR,Pentax 28-105,Sigma 28-300, Sigma 28-80 (Macro) and Pentax 50-200 WR.

puma

Link Posted 27/12/2011 - 21:42
jeeess1967 wrote:
Hi, sorry to sound too less knowledgeable. What is this big-stopper please. Regards, Jeeess

Neutral Density Filter SEE link
my web site http://www.swilsonphotography.foliopic.com/
PPG link
Last Edited by puma on 27/12/2011 - 21:43

jeeess1967

Link Posted 28/12/2011 - 00:01
Thanks a ton puma. regards jeeess
K-5, K-7 and K10D, Pentax 18-135 WR,18-55 WR,Pentax 28-105,Sigma 28-300, Sigma 28-80 (Macro) and Pentax 50-200 WR.

japers45

Link Posted 28/12/2011 - 00:42
I'm going to be honest and say that when I first saw an example of this type of photography I was really excited.

Unfortunately virtually every magazine and website is choca block with these now- milky water everywhere! Ubiquitous to say the least.

A shame as in isolation some are very beautiful.

Technoblurb

Link Posted 28/12/2011 - 07:39
Nice image Shaun

I have attained similar results with a welding glass attached to the lens, cost 3, but the results are clearly poor caused by sticking a non optically correct bit of glass on my lens. The best advice I can give is, setup the shot without the filter, drop the camera into manual focus and use a cable release to reduce shake, then start ramping up the exposure time from about 30 seconds, depending on the light.

These are my experiments





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