bellows and extension tubes
Tubes are provided as sets of various size, and a bellows unit uses a bellows on a rack that allows adjustment continuously over a wide range.
As you extend further, exposeure needs to be increased to compensate for the fall off in light reaching the film/CCD.
The aperture should be kept as small as practicable because there is very little depth of field close up.
Therefore, to shoot at the same speed you need a wide aperture and/or high ISO speed (or of course a brighter subject!).
The best lighting is a ringflash, which encircles the lens. However it is not cheap. Without one, you will need to resort to various techniques to throw an even light all over a very small object which is already in the shadow of a lens and photographer.
Just remember this before you plunge in!
George
Alternatively there is a Vivitar ringflash for pentax AF bodies for only about £80 new
Super A, ME Super, MZ6, K5II, Ricoh GR & lenses from 8-500mm
www.amilner.org
www.flickr.com/photos/tonymilner
As an example, I take pictures of items to put on eBay, some quite small, so a very simple set up is used. Two Jessops print mounting boards 20" x 16" are set up as the background, one flat, one upright and slightly tilted. Lighting comes from one large window. Digital cameras focus very close, so a bridge SLR-style is used to take 3MP pictures. There is no need for bellows or extension tubes for this sort of photography with this sort of camera.
Digital is so good at taking close-up pictures that I have actually stopped using film cameras for this. Film is now used for portrait (sometimes), architecture and landscape work.
Sorry if that strays from the point a little, but I hope the thoughts are useful anyway.
However, two exceptions are the problem of light balance, and the fact that with film you don't get instant (and free) feedback on whether what you've done has worked.
Light balance can be a problem with film if you aren't using either daylight or flash. For that reason, lighting with daylight or conventional electronic flash is by far the best idea.
If that's not possible, you can use halogen and hope that the balance can be corrected in printing, or special tungsten-balanced film (for ordinary light-bulbs), or a dark blue filter (which will remove about two stops), or blue photo-floods.
With a K1000 (and lacking the funds for ringflash) I would buy two cheap manual flash guns, and experiment using reflectors and diffusers (make your own from aluminium foil, handkerchiefs, etc).
Good luck
G
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21 years