Any tips for handheld macro shots

DaveHolmes
Posted 05/05/2012 - 20:27 Link
Had a test out of my 100mm macro - It's great for portraits!

For macro I'm struggling a bit more... I know I should use a tripod but sometimes you see things and just don't have a tripod with you... This happened today...

Handheld at 2.8 the DoF was so thin that I just couldn't get a shot in focus...

Are there any 'holding' techniques that can help or when shooting handheld do I just need to stop-down, up the ISO and shoot fast sacrificing DoF?
........................................................................
Digital:
Pentax K5- Vivitar 19mm 3.8; FA35mm f2; D-Xenon 100mm macro f2.8; DA50-200mm WR...
Flash:
Yongnuo YN-560; Vivitar 285HV; Cactus V4 triggers...
Film:
Pentax-MX & M50mm f1.4; Spottie & 55mm f1.8; MG & M40mm 2.8...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/daveholmesphotos/
johnriley
Posted 05/05/2012 - 20:32 Link
To make a macro shot properly, rather than just something that will get us by at a pinch, a tripod is really essential.

However, it is possible to use higher ISO, maybe an alternative support such as a wall or something handy that can be used to support the camera. To keep long lenses steady whilst shooting in a hide, for example, I've discovered my Billingham Hadley Pro bag can be placed on the usual shelf and is just the right thickness to enable it to be used as a giant beanbag.

So some sort of support is in order. If nothing is to hand, then high ISO and many shots to ensure at least one hits the spot.
Best regards, John
eenymac
Posted 05/05/2012 - 20:42 Link
I have never used a tripod for macro shots as I am usually on the move a lot whilst looking for little subjects to photograph. These are often in amongst tall plants and shrubs too where trying to set up a tripod would probably scare them off anyway.

I do try to use as high a shutter speed as possible, even if I am shooting at F8 - F16, which usually means upping the ISO a bit (Using TAV mode). I also tend to regulate breathing a lot or even hold my breath as I frame and focus to reduce as much movement as possible. I've had times where it's become a case of shoot now and breath or go blue and pass out!
It does take a lot of practice to do it all handheld but it's worth it rather than lugging a tripod about. I have at times used a walking pole as a brace as well which might also help (and is lighter than a tripod).
Frogfish
Posted 05/05/2012 - 20:46 Link
f8 - f11 and ....... diffused flash !

That's how all the top macro shooters do it. Ambient light is just insufficient.
http://frogfish.smugmug.com/ Pentax. Pentax DA*300/4, Cosina 55/1.2, Lens Baby Composer Pro & Edge 80, AFA x1.7, Metz 50 af1.
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matwhittington
Posted 05/05/2012 - 20:52 Link
To get a thicker DOF you'll need a smaller aperture (although you can get some very dreamy bokeh effects with bigger apertures), so I suggest that you try maybe f16, and use the on board flash. The flash synchro speed should be fast enough to give a sharp shot. However, to avoid blowing the picture out with flash, and to stop the end result looking too flat, I find it necessary wind the flash intensity down to -1 or -2. You can then use the ISO to control the end result... worth playing around with. You may find it necessary to take off the lens hood to avoid it casting a shadow on the picture.

Hope that helps. Works better still with a flashgun + diffuser in the hotshoe, and if you have a flash cable to get a flashgun firing off-camera, then you can really get creative...

EDIT: Frogfish is much more succinct than I am!
Mat W

My Flickr: link
Edited by matwhittington: 05/05/2012 - 20:53
milamber
Posted 05/05/2012 - 20:58 Link
I only shoot handheld now for insects. I generally use f16 for depth of field with a straight or diffused flash depending on the subject and available ambient light.

Generally I use catch in focus for insects. It's incredibly accurate with my K-r.

I usually stick with ISO 200 unless I have no choice. Sometimes I need to increase it a little to get a decent shutter speed.

I have a tripod, but rarely find it helpful for insects. It's difficult to get it in position and the insect is usually long gone when I do.

There will be as many techniques as answers and the best thing is to get out and experiment.
Edited by milamber: 05/05/2012 - 21:02
doingthebobs
Posted 05/05/2012 - 20:58 Link
As already said, the tripod really is best. After that pushing up the ISO to get the shutter and aperture value up. Next thing is to use flash but to be honest taking the tripod is easier than setting up an off camera flash arrangement.

I have a walking pole that I adapted with a 1/4' bolt sticking up out of the top of the handle. Gives me a monopod but also a walking stick. It is a pain to screw the camera on so I got a small plastic V thingy from 7dayshop and you can quickly drop the lens into the V for support. Thing is a monopod only supports in one dimension and you can still find the camera waving around in the other two!

Tripod really is the best.
Bob
Mike-P
Posted 05/05/2012 - 21:09 Link
Have never used a tripod for macro, the secret to getting decent shots is lighting. In the UK we rarely get enough light for shooting at f14/16 (especially considering how close you have to get) so be it a ring flash or just a cheap diffused off camera unit you need to get the lighting sorted first.
Edited by Mike-P: 05/05/2012 - 21:11
petrochemist
Posted 05/05/2012 - 21:11 Link
doingthebobs wrote:
Next thing is to use flash but to be honest taking the tripod is easier than setting up an off camera flash arrangement.
I often use my flash on the end of a TTL cable, set up is easier than mounting the camera on a tripod & its a lot lighter to carry!
The flash is generally held out to on side at arms reach, and easily redirected if a more grazing or more direct light is beneficial.

With static subjects under high magnification a tripod comes into it's own - but only if you have a focusing slider. In the wilds I rarely find flowers/insects are static enough for a tripod to be any help.
Mike
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Pentax:K5ii, K7, K100D, DA18-55, DA10-17, DA55-300, DA50-200, F100-300, F50, DA35 AL, 4* M50, 2* M135, Helicoid extension, Tak 300 f4 (& 6 film bodies)
3rd Party: Bigmos (Sigma 150-500mm OS HSM),2* 28mm, 100mm macro, 28-200 zoom, 35-80 zoom, 80-200 zoom, 80-210 zoom, 300mm M42, 600 mirror, 1000-4000 scope, 50mm M42, enlarger lenses, Sony & micro 4/3 cameras with various PK mounts, Zenit E...
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DaveHolmes
Posted 05/05/2012 - 21:25 Link
Thanks for all the replies... Off camera flash is easy, I'm generally quit good at guessing exposure and guesing it right so I'll try that...
Never thought to use 'Catch in Focus' but this seems like the perfect usage for that feature so cheers for that too!

Will a stoffen defuse the light enough or do I need to DIY a little softbox?

I'm taking the night off uni work and having a play!
........................................................................
Digital:
Pentax K5- Vivitar 19mm 3.8; FA35mm f2; D-Xenon 100mm macro f2.8; DA50-200mm WR...
Flash:
Yongnuo YN-560; Vivitar 285HV; Cactus V4 triggers...
Film:
Pentax-MX & M50mm f1.4; Spottie & 55mm f1.8; MG & M40mm 2.8...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/daveholmesphotos/
johnha
Posted 05/05/2012 - 21:39 Link
I prefer to pre-set the focus and move slowly in or out until it's in focus. I don't get on with handheld catch-in-focus as you don't know when the shutter will fire, it always seems to come as a surprise and I tend to jerk the camera as it goes off.
milamber
Posted 05/05/2012 - 22:12 Link
DaveHolmes wrote:
Thanks for all the replies... Off camera flash is easy, I'm generally quit good at guessing exposure and guesing it right so I'll try that...
Never thought to use 'Catch in Focus' but this seems like the perfect usage for that feature so cheers for that too!

Will a stoffen defuse the light enough or do I need to DIY a little softbox?

I'm taking the night off uni work and having a play!
I use anything from a bit of paper to a bit of tea towel stuck over the flash. Sometimes Charlotte's Pringles diffuser. Very high tech.....
Edited by milamber: 05/05/2012 - 22:13
davidstorm
Posted 06/05/2012 - 15:29 Link
I think a tripod is a non-starter when shooting insects outside as they move about too much. F11 to F16 aperture, with either very high natural light levels, or preferably diffused flash. To got the fash over the end of the lens, use the flash off-camera, or more often I use the good old Pringles Tube diffuser with a 90 degree angle in it and this works a treat.

Regards
David
Flickr

Nicola's Apartments, Kassiopi, Corfu

Some cameras, some lenses, some bits 'n' bobs
DaveHolmes
Posted 06/05/2012 - 17:28 Link
Any images of a pringle-tube diffuser?
........................................................................
Digital:
Pentax K5- Vivitar 19mm 3.8; FA35mm f2; D-Xenon 100mm macro f2.8; DA50-200mm WR...
Flash:
Yongnuo YN-560; Vivitar 285HV; Cactus V4 triggers...
Film:
Pentax-MX & M50mm f1.4; Spottie & 55mm f1.8; MG & M40mm 2.8...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/daveholmesphotos/
Charlotte
Posted 06/05/2012 - 17:32 Link
Half way down the page on this link;
https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/topic/some-macros-with-new-lens-34070

One of these days I will get round to making one of these -link
Edited by Charlotte: 06/05/2012 - 17:38

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