An interesting challenge

womble
Posted 09/05/2010 - 11:36 Link
As regulars here may have noticed, on the whole "I don't do people" (to misquote a Flanders and Swann song) and I am very much an available light person. I'd like some advice from the collective expertise here for some photos I have to take in mid-June. Here is the scenario...

1) I need to take some photos of a small group of people (4 or 5) in various configurations, some head and shoulders shots and some full length shots.

2) The group will be outside in "The Garden of the Gods", a fantastic park in Colorado with stunning geological formations which will form the backdrop.

3) I have no idea what the weather will be like but there is a good possibility it will be bright and harsh light.

4) Clearly, I will need some form of fill-in light to soften the shadows, either fill-in flash or a reflector.

5) I will be using my K20D (or K10D?) and have various tripods, lenses and flashes available.

6) So far so simple? Here is the major complication: I will have to be in most of the photos!

I'd be interested in any comments on the best way of lighting this sort of group, and any ideas on how best to be in the photo and setting them up!

Best wishes, Kris.
Kris Lockyear
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
johnriley
Posted 09/05/2010 - 11:40 Link
The best way to be in the photo is to get someone else to do this for you...but if you need to do it yourself you will need a tripod and to use the delayed action of a remote control.

If the terrain allowed, I could see the potential for wedging the camera in trees and rock formations without the tripod, to make more interesting angles and compositions.

As regards the light, slow ISO and fill in flash seems the obvious choice, so a book on Wedding Photography will probably help! Practice this technique and you'll have that part of it sorted with no problem.

Can you pre-visit to scout out the location and make notes? If so, I would definitely do that.
Best regards, John
bforbes
Posted 09/05/2010 - 11:48 Link
If your going to be setting up the groups to be photographed, would it not be easier to position them for the best light/least shadow, rather than trying to fill in light etc.

As for being in the photographs I would go for a wireless remote like the Pentax "F". It's so small you won't see it.
womble
Posted 09/05/2010 - 11:49 Link
I'll be able to scout the day before but no sooner, although I have been there before and so know more or less where we are planning to be. I'll have my tripod with me so that part is no problem.

I had thought fill-in flash would be the way to go. I'll have to find a willing victim to practice on if we ever get a sunny day!

Thanks John.
Kris Lockyear
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
womble
Posted 09/05/2010 - 11:53 Link
bforbes wrote:
As for being in the photographs I would go for a wireless remote like the Pentax "F". It's so small you won't see it.
I have the remote F but it has a very limited range. Any recommendations on one with a longer range? If I have the camera on self timer I'll have time to pop the remote in my pocket before the camera fires.

Thanks, Kris.
Kris Lockyear
It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera… they are made with the eye, heart and head. Henri Cartier-Bresson
Lots of film bodies, a couple of digital ones, too many lenses (mainly older glass) and a Horseman LE 5x4.
i-Berg
Posted 09/05/2010 - 12:30 Link
That is likely a tough call for you Kris, and will involve some compromises so you can be the photographer and the guest! Good luck...
pentaxian450
Posted 09/05/2010 - 12:53 Link
Just try to put the sun BEHIND the group to avoid harsh shadows and squinting and use fill in flash in P-TTL with -1 flash comp. If you are aiming for a more dramatic effect, use an exposure comp of -1 to -2 to darken the background and go with P-TTL to get the proper exposure for the group. If you are used to work with manual flash, then you'd have more control to get the exposure you want for the group. On a very bright day, you might have to use High Speed Sync to be able to get a correct exposure, so make sure your flash(es) will have enough power to illuminate the group properly (HSS takes a lot of power).
Yves (another one of those crazy Canucks)
gartmore
Posted 09/05/2010 - 19:53 Link
Dont forget to take the wee viewfinder cap, if the weather is really bright stray light can muck things up.
Ken
“We must avoid however, snapping away, shooting quickly and without thought, overloading ourselves with unnecessary images that clutter our memory and diminish the clarity of the whole.” - Henri Cartier-Bresson -
SteveT
Posted 10/05/2010 - 13:49 Link
Quote:
I have the remote F but it has a very limited range. Any recommendations on one with a longer range? If I have the camera on self timer I'll have time to pop the remote in my pocket before the camera fires.

Thanks, Kris.
I have seen one that claims to work over 100m though a quick search and i cannot find it now.
However this item looks interesting http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/New-Pro-Timer-Remote-C1-Pentax-K10D-K100-K110D-R8A9-/19039...
K20d
DA 12-24 | DA* 16-50 | DA* 50-135 | Sigma 100-300 F4
Lightroom 2, CS3
My FlickR
polchraine
Posted 10/05/2010 - 14:45 Link
womble wrote:
bforbes wrote:
As for being in the photographs I would go for a wireless remote like the Pentax "F". It's so small you won't see it.
I have the remote F but it has a very limited range. Any recommendations on one with a longer range? If I have the camera on self timer I'll have time to pop the remote in my pocket before the camera fires.

Thanks, Kris.

There is a very nice option available.

You take a cardboard Womble and set up the shot with your double in place.

Carefully walk across, remove the Womble and stand there yourself making sure everything is as you want it.

Then on a given signal, I will wait 2 seconds before pressing the shutter release.

And I will not charge for my time.
.
K20D, *istD, MZ-S, Super-A, ME Super, MX
DA* 16-50, DA* 50-135, DA* 300,
DA 50-200, FA 24-90, FA 20-35,
M 400-600, A 50 f1.4, A 28 f2.8, A 70-210, M 35-80, M 50 f1.7
A x2S teleconverter and a few others ...

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