Advice desperately required... wedding imminent!
Posted 04/09/2004 - 16:53
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I think my best advice is don't do it unless you are 100% au fait and happy with whatever camera equipment you are using. There is no time for thinking about the technique on a wedding shoot, you do need to be fully up to speed. I don't think the question of manual or autofocus is really the issue, but whether or not the photographer can handle the groups and the people effectively, use fill-in flash properly and produce top quality results in frantic circumstances. The equipment should be so familiar as to be second nature.
If all that is OK, then I would opt for the Pentax 645 for its medium format quality. Use professional colour negative stock that is low contrast, designed for weddings (Kodak Vericolor, etc...) use a professional printing lab. Oh, and charge a realistic fee that will cover your costs properly. It will be an expensive exercise.
But whatever you decide, I do suggest that you do not use an unfamiliar or new camera, it's asking for problems..
Hope that helps!
If all that is OK, then I would opt for the Pentax 645 for its medium format quality. Use professional colour negative stock that is low contrast, designed for weddings (Kodak Vericolor, etc...) use a professional printing lab. Oh, and charge a realistic fee that will cover your costs properly. It will be an expensive exercise.
But whatever you decide, I do suggest that you do not use an unfamiliar or new camera, it's asking for problems..
Hope that helps!
Best regards, John
Posted 04/09/2004 - 17:03
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Thanx for the advice, I know what you mean about the 645, its a great camera even though I have never actualy used one- the quip about comparing it to a lubitel was really in jest, not a true comparison.
I wont be charging for the photographs, well, not for the ones the happy couple get anyway.
I will have to give the 645 some serious thought, I have 6 months to get ready for this, I could get one and throw a load of film through it to get me used to it I suppose... I am thinking its going to be be far better for blowing up enlargements on a medium format rather than 35mm and the 645 is nearly as light as an SLR.
I have been finding it difficult to find a place in S.Wales to get my 120 film developed, any ideas? last time I gave it to Jessops I wasnt happy with the results, and they had to send it away to be processed.
I wont be charging for the photographs, well, not for the ones the happy couple get anyway.
I will have to give the 645 some serious thought, I have 6 months to get ready for this, I could get one and throw a load of film through it to get me used to it I suppose... I am thinking its going to be be far better for blowing up enlargements on a medium format rather than 35mm and the 645 is nearly as light as an SLR.
I have been finding it difficult to find a place in S.Wales to get my 120 film developed, any ideas? last time I gave it to Jessops I wasnt happy with the results, and they had to send it away to be processed.
Posted 04/09/2004 - 17:07
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If you're familiar with 35mm, then sticking to that would be better than struggling with medium format, which takes time to master.
If you buy a copy of AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHER there are adverts for suitable mail order labs in it. Transpacolor is a good one.
If you buy a copy of AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHER there are adverts for suitable mail order labs in it. Transpacolor is a good one.
Best regards, John
Posted 04/09/2004 - 17:10
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You might be right, my medium format work has all been twin lens, mainly from the lubitel. I really do like medium format, especialy for really big enlargements. But with the lubitel EVERY thing takes time and a lot of luck and guess works involved... quite a lot of bracketing to get right.
Posted 04/09/2004 - 23:13
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If you haven't already got one, I'd suggest picking up a half-decent hand held light meter and having a play with it. Once you've established the light level, you can transfer the settings to the Lubitel and fire away with confidence (providing the light levels don't change dramatically) - for a cheap camera it is capable of remarkable results!
You could use the built in meter on one of your other cameras but the incident readings from a seperate meter would be better.
If you do go ahead with the shoot, use a number of cameras and films and fire off as many shots as you can (enlist help if poss.) and that way, you should get a substantial number of good results.
The lighting is always tricky, the groom typically wears a dark suit, the bride in a light if not white dress and you really must get the skin tones just right while focussing on the eyes - you're a braver man than me!
Oh and don't forget to plan the photo sites by checking out the location before the 'big day'.
Good Luck
You could use the built in meter on one of your other cameras but the incident readings from a seperate meter would be better.
If you do go ahead with the shoot, use a number of cameras and films and fire off as many shots as you can (enlist help if poss.) and that way, you should get a substantial number of good results.
The lighting is always tricky, the groom typically wears a dark suit, the bride in a light if not white dress and you really must get the skin tones just right while focussing on the eyes - you're a braver man than me!
Oh and don't forget to plan the photo sites by checking out the location before the 'big day'.
Good Luck
Die my dear doctor, that's the last thing I shall do!
Posted 06/09/2004 - 10:20
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Ok, looks like I am going with my own set up of an MZM + 24mm Cosina and 35-80mm pentax prob loaded up with XP2 film, if its still available, a compact (not sure which yet) loaded up with Fuji Velvia for strolling around the crowds and getting candid shots, and I am considering purchasing a Z1P + 28-105mm Sigma lens for the main shoot.
Did consider the 645, but to be honest, its a bit expensive still for me, I may well take the Lubitel with me with some B/W film in for a few shots of the bride and groom which can be blown up, in my experience of the Lubitel, as long as you keep the Aperature down a bit you wont get the tell tale round fogging around the edge of the image often sited with this camera.
Z1P used to be the flagship Pentax right? what is your experience/opinion of the camera? If I do go for it I will be putting a rake of film through it between now and the big day and may well put some online to see what you guys think.
Did consider the 645, but to be honest, its a bit expensive still for me, I may well take the Lubitel with me with some B/W film in for a few shots of the bride and groom which can be blown up, in my experience of the Lubitel, as long as you keep the Aperature down a bit you wont get the tell tale round fogging around the edge of the image often sited with this camera.
Z1P used to be the flagship Pentax right? what is your experience/opinion of the camera? If I do go for it I will be putting a rake of film through it between now and the big day and may well put some online to see what you guys think.
Posted 06/09/2004 - 11:20
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I adore my Z1-P. IMHO it is very near perfect and has proven to be utterly reliable. They are now available so cheaply that I would recommend that you get one anyway - whether or not you use it for the wedding!
I've no doubt the Sigma lens is a fine optic but the original Pentax FA 28-105 is superb, it features the auto zoom capabilities that so many critics insist on dismissing as gimmicks and a pointless waste of battery power.
In truth, these features are not only useful but also fun - which was the whole point of the Z series in the first place and auto-zoom can always be disabled when not required.
As an overall package, I think the Z1-P was/is brilliant and quite unique (only the Minolta Xi range came close and they were no where near as user friendly).
I've no doubt the Sigma lens is a fine optic but the original Pentax FA 28-105 is superb, it features the auto zoom capabilities that so many critics insist on dismissing as gimmicks and a pointless waste of battery power.
In truth, these features are not only useful but also fun - which was the whole point of the Z series in the first place and auto-zoom can always be disabled when not required.
As an overall package, I think the Z1-P was/is brilliant and quite unique (only the Minolta Xi range came close and they were no where near as user friendly).
Die my dear doctor, that's the last thing I shall do!
Posted 06/09/2004 - 12:28
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I too would heartily recommend the Z1 (had one for some time). A beautiful camera and performs and handles very well. It worked wonderfully with the AF360FGZ.
I would agree with Kim's suggestion about Pentax optics. Having migrated to the *ist-D I have consistently found the Pentax SMC optics superior and now use them exclusively (I have a series of SMC-F lenses, some from dealers, some from eBay )
Regarding weddings: it's a good idea to get a check list from the bridge & groom. Get them to write up which group photos they want (Bride+Her father, Bride+Groom+parents etc etc), and if they want any special images. Then, arrange the list so there are fewest changes of shot, type them up neatly and bring that with you. Tick them off as you take them. It gives you: (a) the authority to yell out what and who you need in a shot, and (b) the assurance you've covered their requirements.
Other suggestions: make sure people put their bags down before entering a shot; make sure there are no phantom hands (where people put their arms round a shoulder and a hand appears disconnected); double check you have all heads and feet in a shot before pressing the shutter; oh yes, and keep calm!
I've found it useful to meter off the skin (again the suggestion of a hand held meter is a good one, but the Z1/Z1p has a true spot meter) and use manual mode. For weddings, I've always used Fuji NP-S film which handles the contrasts very well. Get it developed by a local pro-lab too (There's one local to me that does a very nice 8x6 proof pack which works out well for weddings.)
Matt
I would agree with Kim's suggestion about Pentax optics. Having migrated to the *ist-D I have consistently found the Pentax SMC optics superior and now use them exclusively (I have a series of SMC-F lenses, some from dealers, some from eBay )
Regarding weddings: it's a good idea to get a check list from the bridge & groom. Get them to write up which group photos they want (Bride+Her father, Bride+Groom+parents etc etc), and if they want any special images. Then, arrange the list so there are fewest changes of shot, type them up neatly and bring that with you. Tick them off as you take them. It gives you: (a) the authority to yell out what and who you need in a shot, and (b) the assurance you've covered their requirements.
Other suggestions: make sure people put their bags down before entering a shot; make sure there are no phantom hands (where people put their arms round a shoulder and a hand appears disconnected); double check you have all heads and feet in a shot before pressing the shutter; oh yes, and keep calm!
I've found it useful to meter off the skin (again the suggestion of a hand held meter is a good one, but the Z1/Z1p has a true spot meter) and use manual mode. For weddings, I've always used Fuji NP-S film which handles the contrasts very well. Get it developed by a local pro-lab too (There's one local to me that does a very nice 8x6 proof pack which works out well for weddings.)
Matt
http://www.mattmatic.co.uk
(For gallery, tips and links)
(For gallery, tips and links)
Posted 10/09/2004 - 06:42
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I would caution against using Velvia, as you suggested, for a wedding. It is a high contrast film, whihc is a problem with balck suits and white dresses, and isn't flattering to skin tones. Instead, for colour I'd use a low contrast print film, for which my first choice would be Kodak Portra 160NC, though Fuji NPH is good too if you prefer Fuji. If you must have slides, use Fuji Sensia, or Reala rather than Velvia.
For the compact you talked about using for the candids, your Olympus 35SP is hard to beat, if you are comfortable with it. The lens is as sharp as anything you can buy today, and fast, and the spot meter will be very useful.
Peter
For the compact you talked about using for the candids, your Olympus 35SP is hard to beat, if you are comfortable with it. The lens is as sharp as anything you can buy today, and fast, and the spot meter will be very useful.
Peter
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2277 posts
24 years
I have been volunteered to do the wedding photographs for my girlfriends daughters wedding. I have done a photography course in the past, about 5 years ago, I have loads of camera equipment- most of it Pentax 35mm but also some twin lens 120 camera's ( I have always liked the old twin lens camera's, especialy their price! Lubitel 166U for £10, Pentax 645 £700 second hand, need I say more?) Prob is, all my stuff is old manual focus, I am worried I wont be able to focus fast enough for the candid shots, the group pics would be fine.
I am more than a bit nervous about doing it but determined to give it my best, I am thinking about picking up an auto focus camera and want some advice on camera body and lenses.
I dont know much about Auto focus camera's, my usual pics were landscapes and architecture, usualy in black and white. Current camera set ups I use includes a MZM, a ME super, a spotmatic, an Olympus 35SP, Lubitel 166U and a voigtlander bessa. I also have a Cannon A40 digital camera.
I have a pretty good range of PK and M42 lenses and flashguns.
Should I get an autofocus? should I go for SLR or compact for the candid shots?
Should I go for a medium format auto focus?
I wasa thinking on the lines of a MZ5N as that was the creme de la creme when I was really into camera's, or a SFX or maybe MZ7... any advice would be very welcome, even if its to throw a sicky on the day!