Pentax MX
Posted 27/04/2009 - 21:21
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Good choice!
They're all-mechanical cameras so at least there are no electronic gubbins to go wrong (except the meter of course - see below). Like a mechanical watch the chances are it'll either work or it won't!
Things to test are:
Check the shutter fires at all speeds. It's pretty much impossible to tell the difference between, say, 1/500 seconds and 1/1000 seconds by ear but you should be able to tell the differences between the slower speeds. If it doesn't fire (or always stays at the same speed) then walk away.
The meter battery is prone to drain. This is because of two contacts in the base that get bent towards each other and prevent the meter from switching off - an easy DIY fix so don't let that put you off.
Open up the back and hold the camera up to a bright light source - the MX has a rubberised silk shutter (much nicer and quieter than the usual metal ones) but the downside is that it can have pinholes in it. If it does then, again, walk away.
The light seals around the back door and the mirror box will almost certainly be corroded (the foam turns into a nasty black gunk which can get on everything). Once again this is an easy DIY job to replace so don't let it put you off.
Everything else is down to cosmetics really. Things like focus screens are still readily available on eBay but if you start off with a nice clean one then you'll save a few pounds not having to replace it.
Finally, edumad had problems with the prism itself having a hairline crack on his two - I've not experienced this but I can see how it would happen as the prism is right underneath the thin metal top plate - so check the plate for any dents or signs of being dropped.
Finally, check the self-timer works. If it's jammed up it can be fixed but it's not an easy job so walk away from that too.
That should do for starters and have a read of my MX thread.
They're all-mechanical cameras so at least there are no electronic gubbins to go wrong (except the meter of course - see below). Like a mechanical watch the chances are it'll either work or it won't!
Things to test are:
Check the shutter fires at all speeds. It's pretty much impossible to tell the difference between, say, 1/500 seconds and 1/1000 seconds by ear but you should be able to tell the differences between the slower speeds. If it doesn't fire (or always stays at the same speed) then walk away.
The meter battery is prone to drain. This is because of two contacts in the base that get bent towards each other and prevent the meter from switching off - an easy DIY fix so don't let that put you off.
Open up the back and hold the camera up to a bright light source - the MX has a rubberised silk shutter (much nicer and quieter than the usual metal ones) but the downside is that it can have pinholes in it. If it does then, again, walk away.
The light seals around the back door and the mirror box will almost certainly be corroded (the foam turns into a nasty black gunk which can get on everything). Once again this is an easy DIY job to replace so don't let it put you off.
Everything else is down to cosmetics really. Things like focus screens are still readily available on eBay but if you start off with a nice clean one then you'll save a few pounds not having to replace it.
Finally, edumad had problems with the prism itself having a hairline crack on his two - I've not experienced this but I can see how it would happen as the prism is right underneath the thin metal top plate - so check the plate for any dents or signs of being dropped.
Finally, check the self-timer works. If it's jammed up it can be fixed but it's not an easy job so walk away from that too.
That should do for starters and have a read of my MX thread.
Joining the Q
Posted 27/04/2009 - 21:45
Link
To switch the meter on you pull the film advance lever away from its "rest" (flush with camera) position, and it will will remain in a "detente" position a few millimeters away from the body. You then half press the shutter button and should feel it click. Check that you can do this, or there might be mechanical problems.
Peter
My Flickr page
My Flickr page
Posted 27/04/2009 - 22:13
Link
Quote:
The light seals around the back door and the mirror box will almost certainly be corroded (the foam turns into a nasty black gunk which can get on everything). Once again this is an easy DIY job to replace so don't let it put you off.
Check out this.The light seals around the back door and the mirror box will almost certainly be corroded (the foam turns into a nasty black gunk which can get on everything). Once again this is an easy DIY job to replace so don't let it put you off.
A lot of people on here swear by his kits, heck I'm on my second!
As Hefty says the seals are easy to do, as for the rest, both my MX bodies needed minimal work. The original was very dirty and didn't fire the shutter, but cleaning it up did the job.
Check out this and this for info.
Manual here and service manual here
Cheers, HG
K110+DA40, K200+DA35, K3 and a bag of lenses, bodies and other bits.
Mustn't forget the Zenits, or folders, or...
PPG entries.
K110+DA40, K200+DA35, K3 and a bag of lenses, bodies and other bits.
Mustn't forget the Zenits, or folders, or...
PPG entries.
Posted 27/04/2009 - 22:15
Link
People have covered the main things.
You can check the timer and DOF preview, its the little lever on the left (facing the camera front). Push it down and actuate the shutter, you'll ear a buzz, the lever moves and the shutter fires.
On the hairline crack...
I'm still wondering how a perfectly vertical crack can occur in the prism and how there is no altering of the image... Most be something with the construction of it.
But the lack of dents is no clue, my MXs have none. To find the crack, look through the finder and try to focus on different spots on the optical path between the finder window and the focus screen.
I second the recommendation on those seal kits, I've resealed my MXs with it, the tutorials are great.
BTW, I do have one MX for sale
You can check the timer and DOF preview, its the little lever on the left (facing the camera front). Push it down and actuate the shutter, you'll ear a buzz, the lever moves and the shutter fires.
On the hairline crack...
I'm still wondering how a perfectly vertical crack can occur in the prism and how there is no altering of the image... Most be something with the construction of it.
But the lack of dents is no clue, my MXs have none. To find the crack, look through the finder and try to focus on different spots on the optical path between the finder window and the focus screen.
I second the recommendation on those seal kits, I've resealed my MXs with it, the tutorials are great.
BTW, I do have one MX for sale
Posted 27/04/2009 - 22:21
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The MX is a well designed and reliable camera, but some of them are now getting quite old. It might be a good idea to get any MX overhauled, especially as the shutter mechanism will slow down and start to "taper" -that is, the speed of travel varies over the run of the shutter, causing uneven exposure.
A mint MX fully working is a beautiful thing. I'd love to buy a boxed unused one, and there probably is one somewhere.
A mint MX fully working is a beautiful thing. I'd love to buy a boxed unused one, and there probably is one somewhere.
Best regards, John
Posted 27/04/2009 - 22:23
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johnriley wrote:
The MX is a well designed and reliable camera, but some of them are now getting quite old. It might be a good idea to get any MX overhauled, especially as the shutter mechanism will slow down and start to "taper" -that is, the speed of travel varies over the run of the shutter, causing uneven exposure.
A mint MX fully working is a beautiful thing. I'd love to buy a boxed unused one, and there probably is one somewhere.
Ah but could you afford it John?The MX is a well designed and reliable camera, but some of them are now getting quite old. It might be a good idea to get any MX overhauled, especially as the shutter mechanism will slow down and start to "taper" -that is, the speed of travel varies over the run of the shutter, causing uneven exposure.
A mint MX fully working is a beautiful thing. I'd love to buy a boxed unused one, and there probably is one somewhere.
I'm with you on the thought but financing such a find could cause a divorce!
Cheers, HG
K110+DA40, K200+DA35, K3 and a bag of lenses, bodies and other bits.
Mustn't forget the Zenits, or folders, or...
PPG entries.
K110+DA40, K200+DA35, K3 and a bag of lenses, bodies and other bits.
Mustn't forget the Zenits, or folders, or...
PPG entries.
Posted 27/04/2009 - 22:28
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Quote:
Ah but could you afford it John?
I'm pretty sure it would hurt, but I'd try!
Ah but could you afford it John?
Best regards, John
Posted 28/04/2009 - 12:19
Link
johnriley wrote:
The MX is a well designed and reliable camera, but some of them are now getting quite old. It might be a good idea to get any MX overhauled, especially as the shutter mechanism will slow down and start to "taper" -that is, the speed of travel varies over the run of the shutter, causing uneven exposure.
A mint MX fully working is a beautiful thing. I'd love to buy a boxed unused one, and there probably is one somewhere.
My sentiments exactly . I'm not using mine enough to justify it. But some day...
The MX is a well designed and reliable camera, but some of them are now getting quite old. It might be a good idea to get any MX overhauled, especially as the shutter mechanism will slow down and start to "taper" -that is, the speed of travel varies over the run of the shutter, causing uneven exposure.
A mint MX fully working is a beautiful thing. I'd love to buy a boxed unused one, and there probably is one somewhere.
Posted 28/04/2009 - 15:39
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Thanks fro all the advice here.
Hopefully I should be getting my MX in the post tomorrow. I got it on ebay, the description sounds like it shouldn't need too much work doing to it.
Here's the link if anyone want's to have a look and let me know if they think I got a good bargain...........or not !
link
Thanks
Jason
Hopefully I should be getting my MX in the post tomorrow. I got it on ebay, the description sounds like it shouldn't need too much work doing to it.
Here's the link if anyone want's to have a look and let me know if they think I got a good bargain...........or not !
link
Thanks
Jason
K30 & 18-55mm WR.
Posted 28/04/2009 - 17:04
Link
Apart from the tatty strap and the apparently missing black tip of the lock lever it seems in vgc. It should be easy to replace if someone has a spare parts MX.
I hope the screen is clean.
Hard to say if its good or not from the one pic.
You might have gotten a good price, but I wouldn't say a bargain.
I hope the screen is clean.
Hard to say if its good or not from the one pic.
You might have gotten a good price, but I wouldn't say a bargain.
Posted 28/04/2009 - 17:20
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Thanks for the imput.
I just wanted to make sure I wasn't paying over the odds for it. The MX's seem to have been going for about £60ish lately on ebay so I thought this one with the 50mm f1.7 lens for £76 seemed to be a good price especially if the lens is in excellent condition.. It does say only 1 or 2 minor marks on the body too.
Jason
I just wanted to make sure I wasn't paying over the odds for it. The MX's seem to have been going for about £60ish lately on ebay so I thought this one with the 50mm f1.7 lens for £76 seemed to be a good price especially if the lens is in excellent condition.. It does say only 1 or 2 minor marks on the body too.
Jason
K30 & 18-55mm WR.
Posted 28/04/2009 - 20:12
Link
If it is in the condition stated I think you have done well. Not a steal, but a good price nontheless. The M 50mm 1.7 sells at £35 on average, £45-£50 for a vgc. So you can do the maths.
Check the light seals carefully as others have suggested and replace them.
Now you will hanker after a black one, and dont forget the auto-winder for it too
Check the light seals carefully as others have suggested and replace them.
Now you will hanker after a black one, and dont forget the auto-winder for it too
Peter
My Flickr page
My Flickr page
Posted 28/04/2009 - 22:00
Link
For the MX the motordrive is better.
shim
shim
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186 posts
17 years
Berkshire,
England
I have developed my interest in photography in the digital age but have always wanted a film SLR and as such am going to purchasing a Pentax MX soon.
Can anyone give me any advice as to what to look for and how to check the camera out when I get it to make sure it is a good un'.
Thanks
Jason