I'd completely forgotten about the PPG, haven't been there for a very long time. Perhaps I should submit larger files of the ones that are there.

K.

Spot metering is taking the light reading from one small point of the image --- usually a 1degree or 5degree spot --- so where you point the camera makes a HUGE difference to the reading. It is a mode/technique which really requires one to know what one is doing. It will render whatever point is under the spot 18% gray so if you point the spot at something very dark, the whole image will be over-exposed and vice versa. It is most useful in very specific situations. For example, say you want to have a brightly lit object render correctly but the rest of the image crushed to black, then you can use spot metering to get a reading only from that object ignoring the rest of the picture.

Linking the AF lock with the AE lock is probably on the assumption that the part of your image you want 'correctly' exposed is likely to be the same part you want precisely focused.

Spot metering is also essential for using Adams' zone method of metering but that is mainly (although not entirely) a film based technique and the subject for another day. The prototype Spotmatic was going to have built-in spot metering (hence the name) but was released with a more generic average metering. My guess is that Pentax realised that most casual users wouldn't know what to do with it and would end up getting it wrong most of the time.

Best, Kris.

There isn't much to it. The lens only shifts on one axis, but the angle of shift can be rotated. It has a preset aperture which some people might find a bit fiddly, and built in filters. For 99% of uses you are going to shift upwards to include more of a building and less foreground without converging verticals (what in large format terms would be a front rise) having set the camera up on a tripod with a spirit level first.

The really clever part of large format photography, swings and tilts to adjust the depth of focus using the Scheimpflug principle (not the depth of field which is adjusted by the aperture) is not something you can do with a shift lens. Even Canon's TS range only allows tilts and swings in one axis and so is less flexible than a LF set up.

K,

A working 35-70 for £25 is a stunning bargain. The ebay listing for £170 is hopelessly optimistic!

K.

I've thought about it but have never got around to it. Being near London I might get more from it than Ken does (did).

If you have a look back through the PUF archives, some of our ?former members went for LRPS and produced some stunning images. ?Lilly (from Cornwall) produced some wonderful work.

Not everyone with letters after their name is a fraud...

Kris BA, MSc, PhD, FSA.....

Can't fault his stratagem (apart from starting the bidding too high). I'm just trying to decide if I can afford to bid for the lens I am interested in (and no, it isn't the 200mm macro...).

Cheers, Kris.

I don't suppose you have an FD-2 viewfinder to go with that FA-1?

K.

I assume the big gold star on the 200 macro isn't original?

Sounds like the Fuji camera and two lenses I sold. The pair went for less than a fiver then the buyer asked if I could save on the postage... Oh well, he was happy and I freed up some shelf space.

Most of my relatively bargain buys have been auctions with a high starting price where I have bid the minimum with a few seconds to go and no one else has bid. I shan't be bidding on the 200 macro as I have to pay the rent and eat this month too!

I hope whoever wins it goes and takes photos with it. I hate to see lovely camera gear just being used as an ornament.

K.