Tyr

Joined: 11th April 2007

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Tyr
Mike-P wrote:
When we are out for a walk I normally take the camera and 99% of the time my wife is happy to stop multiple times and let me take a few pictures. Is your partner the same or do you get told to stop wasting time and move on?
My wife probably takes longer as she shoots a lot of macro.

johnriley wrote:
The answer is to have a partner who is also interested in photography. Unfortunately, she may become better at it than you are, so make sure you can take it.
That is why differing photographic interests are also good

Don wrote:
johnriley wrote:
The answer is to have a partner who is also interested in photography. Unfortunately, she may become better at it than you are, so make sure you can take it.
or worse, she may be the one bugging you to pose...
Luckily macro saves the day again.

Comment by Tyr posted on How understanding is your partner? at 07/03/2011 - 16:46

Tyr
ElRazur wrote:

Flash will be used with a white plastic diffuser I bought off amazon.
If you use a diffuser it may not help as it will eat flash power. If you are using bounce flash you may not need to use it at all.

What type is it? Like a Stofen? In which case just use the flash at a 45 degree angle. It may not be quite as good as straight bounce depending on distance.

Comment by Tyr posted on Shooting a birthday event - What camera settings please? at 07/03/2011 - 16:44

Tyr


I did say that given the equipment I'd just use flash WB and leave the rest of the room to its particular colouration.

Gels are not expensive though, could even just get some sweet wrappers that are the right colour

Then again that would probably go down as well as my home made diffuser. People kept asking if I'd forgotten to remove the packaging.

link

Comment by Tyr posted on Shooting a birthday event - What camera settings please? at 07/03/2011 - 15:46

Tyr
Don wrote:

or they step out of thier car and zoom out to get the mountians in the shot and the people or animals or intersting subjects in the foreground look like ants or dust specs, when they could have walked up closer, used a wider lens and got decent sized subjects framed nicely with the mountians in the background!
either way reaching for the zoom ruins more shots than stopping for a minute to say I need to swap lenses. now which lens should I use?
Need to not have non photographer's around for that as they tend to get annoyed when you say "hold on, just need to change my lens" or "hold on, I want to take a picture". *sigh*

Comment by Tyr posted on Zooms or Primes at 07/03/2011 - 15:45

Tyr
The A28 f2.8 (different design to the M) is an amazingly sharp lens with very little distortion and good rendering. I'd recommend it if you can find it.

Comment by Tyr posted on SMC-M 28mm F2.8 and SMC-A 135mm F2.8 at 07/03/2011 - 15:22

Tyr
Don wrote:
Smeggypants wrote:
An interesting anecdote from my own shooting practises. For some reason 95% of shots when I've got a zoom on are either fully in or fully out. Which essentially means I'm using the zoom as a dual focal length prime
that is the case for most people as well.
sadly that means a lot of people aren't considering PERSPECTIVE when shooting...
do I move in closer with a wider lens to get more background in? or do I pull back and use a longer lens to crop out the background elements? and by how much?
True, it isn't always something that is considered. Framing the subject takes priority for most people and then ignore what is going on behind.

I tend to go long for subject isolation or to isolate with less background. I go for the wide end when I want that wide angle perspective or to actually take a wide shot.

Comment by Tyr posted on Zooms or Primes at 07/03/2011 - 15:20

Tyr
ElRazur wrote:
Thanks man. I appreciate.

Will do as adsive - take test shot at venue etc.

As per White Balance, I usually just see the type of lighting been used on the inside and set accordingly or will I be better off using "Flash" as setting to WB?
While balance with flash is a tough one.

Personally I have a set of correcting gels and a strap to attach them:

Colour Correction Gels

Sample Pack

Strap

Very handy to have and take up no space really.

Otherwise I'd just use flash WB and leave the rest of the room orange/green depending on the lighting.

Comment by Tyr posted on Shooting a birthday event - What camera settings please? at 07/03/2011 - 15:02

Tyr
I've recently discovered the usefulness of TAv, previously I shot in Av and M. It is very rare that I need to shoot in Tv. In fact I can't remember ever shooting in Tv, Sv or Green.

Comment by Tyr posted on Sv Mode... at 07/03/2011 - 14:56

Tyr
gartmore wrote:
Don't use 'auto ISO' 200 or 400 will probably be fine, do take spare batteries.
Depending on the lighting I'd probably shoot from ISO 400-1600 if it was indoors in the evening and at night otherwise the flash is likely to overpower the ambient a bit too much.

I've not been to many places lit up brightly enough to be shooting at ISO 200-400 indoors.

ElRazur wrote:
I think the [P] Programme mode and Aperture priority [Av] will both be used as it gives me a degree of control in ensuring a bit of creativity on the shots.

During the various test shot I've done so far, the Av appears to allow me to play with depth of field better - but this is just my observation and not a statement of fact.
P move allows you to change from Tv to Av quickly on dual dial cameras. I'm not sure how it works on the single dial K-x so I'd say stick to Av for DoF control and let the camera choose the shutter speed and flash power.

Comment by Tyr posted on Shooting a birthday event - What camera settings please? at 07/03/2011 - 14:55

Tyr
Blythman wrote:
1,2 and for aspirational purpose 8, are the pick for me. Super set.
No Bird will come to 1.4m? I beg to differ: link

It is rare with wild birds but some tamer ones will. Plus, you could hide...

Comment by Tyr posted on First Chinese Bird Shots with DA*300 at 07/03/2011 - 14:41

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