Thanks for the information. 512 it is, then

Well, that's a new one for me. I never heard of a card failing before. What would cause one to fail? There aren't any moving parts. (This is probably a stupid question).

A further question: Do the 16-45 and 18-55 lenses come with lens hoods?

Ted

Many thanks, Drew and John.

You've basically pushed me over the edge toward a purchase. I'll probably get both lenses. I don't suppose my 8 Super Takumar lenses will be of much use, as the fact that they would become pre-set lenses would slow things down considerably. However, they might work fine if one isn't in a hurry. I really liked the feel of the camera when I had the opportunity to interact with it the other day.

What are "A lenses"? Hmmm, perhaps "A" stands for autofocus? And how do you know when you've got your hands on one? Is "A" written on it anywhere?

Ted

I'm about to switch from my venerable Spotmatics to a ist DS2, currently available at a camera store in Tucson, Arizona. It comes with the 18-55 lens and is $800USD plus tax (about 8%). This kit is somewhat cheaper on the internet, but then those folks love adding shipping costs, so it's close to a wash, and anyway I'd prefer to help a local camera shop stay in business.

I guess what I want to know is this: will the camera work for street shooting (photojournalism)? I like to wander about and shoot as clandestinely as possible, and the ist DS, or DS2, seem small and easy to use, about the same size as my Spotmatics. The store's owner let me take one out of the store for a fling and I very much liked the bright viewfinder and the way the camera body fit in my hand. Another reason for buying it, aside from passionate Pentax loyalty, is that I also work on assignment for an internet magazine and they don't like messing with my flatbed film print scans and the lag time due to developing and printing (and who could blame them).

I'm a little leery of the slowness of these DSLR lenses (in this case f:3.5-5.6), and perhaps some of you owners might have a thought about this. I'm also a complete newbie to digital SLR's and wonder if I can just street shoot without having to constantly fiddle with menus. Said fiddling obviously can result in missing shots.

I'd like to be able to take it out of the box and hit the street shooting in JPEG and get useable results. Later, and as time permits, I'd like to learn the camera's menus, figure out how to use RAW, etc.

Comments from users will be dearly appreciated.

Ted

George: If you got a Wein cell they usually take up to a half hour to work. Something about the air-zinc makeup (same as most hearing aid cells). When you pull off the tab it lets air into the tiny hole and brings it to life. I think that's what happens.

Ted

I wonder if one could pull the collar off a used up Wein cell and fit it to a battery that might work if only it had a collar.

Ted

Being from this side of the pond, the answer is easy: black and white, the true film for photojournalism.

Ted

Mac: Here's the trick to keep it from overheating.

1. Remove front and rear lens caps.

2. Wrap the lens tightly in aluminum foil, shiny side inward.

3. Arrange foil so that rear lens element is exposed.

4. Prop lens at about a 40 degree angle so that it's facing south.

I did mine outside on a table and it took a mere ten days to completely de-yellow the glass. Of course that's here in the Arizona sun. The purpose of the aluminum is two-fold. By covering the lens, the black metal cannot absorb heat. By having the shiny side inward, the sun enters the lens through the rear element, strikes the shiny aluminum covering the front element, and sort of bounces about inside. I believe this hastens the process, but a scientist I am not.

I suppose this method works inside also with the lens propped on a south facing window sill, and I guess the angle at which it is propped would depend on the position of the sun in the sky (lower in winter, etc.).

Cheers,

Ted

I'll heartily second the two previous posters. At today's prices, especially on ebay, you would be ill-advised to buy any M42 screwmount lenses other than Takumars. I have a 28/3.5 Super Takumar (the small version, which is the best) that has paid for itself many times over. The Super Takumar 135/2.5 is not only very fast but very sharp. If you see a Super Takumar 50/1.4 - a wonderful "normal" lens - with a yellow tint to the glass, clamour for a reduced price. Claim it's worthless for use with colour film. BUY IT. Then I, or others on this forum can tell you how to de-yellow it - a very simple procedure - and you'll have one of the best lenses Takumar has made, although some would argue that the 55/1.8 is better. In my opinion, either will do just fine.

Ted

See my post under "Choosing a Lens for the Spotmatic F."

Ted