I have used a program called Irfanview (freeware for private use) to upsize images very succesfully. It is an alternative to the Photoshop "bicubic", and other fractal based upsizers, and uses a larger interpolation group of pixels (I can't find how many, just at the moment, but I think bicubic interpolates from 9 pixels, whereas Irfanview interpolates from 16). I don't seem to have it set up at the moment, but you can use it as a plug in to photoshop or as a stand alone viewer.

It can be downloaded from tucows, but there is a link from http://www.irfanview.com.

I'd be interested if anybody else hasa go with this, and can comment on the comparison with the other methods mentioned.

I'm interested in the 750z for a small versatile camera, and I see a few members have mentioned it. However, most reviews and others seem to say that it underexposes.

Has anybody else found this, and if so, is it a problem, or is it just something to correct when importing to the computer, or does it lose shadow detail. Alternatively, is it easy to set up the exposure compensation to always correct for it. I guess this would mean that there would be less compensation available for white scenes.

OK, so the camera is compatible with the high speed card, but may not be as much faster as the card rating suggests. Can you say whether the fast card will provide any noticeable increase in card access times when used in any particular camera?

Sorry, Julien,

Been through the whole User guide, and had a good look at the menus, but alas, no alarm clock. Great little camera, though, but I do miss the optical viewfinder.

John, you may be right, I had not come across those recommendations. I have been using the Lithium Cells since they came out, probably more than 15 years ago. I am afraid my ME succumbed to me dropping it, rather than the high voltage of the Lithium cell. I must admit, I've never measured it before, but was a little surprised at the 3.3V from a CR1/3N. 2xSR44s are more like 2.6V. The Lithium Cell is the only relieable cell to work at very low temperatures, though.
I shall have to consider whether to continue to use the Lithium cells after this.

Regards
Taliety

Hi, not quite on topic, but I use a Lithium cell for my MX and ME Super. There is a single cell replacing the two Silver cells originally used, it is called a 1/3N or DL 1/3N, 2L76, or CR1/3N. They are very stable throughout there life, and have an extraordinary shelf life, (my spare says best before 2010). I don't think the use of the Lithium, the Silver Oxide or the Alkaline cells have made any discernable difference to the metering I have experienced, and I have at times used all three battery types.

Regards, Taliety.

How to vote?

I posted a reply some time ago, but couldn't find a means of entering my vote. At the bottom of the page, it says that I can vote in polls in this forum.

Would somebody like to tell me what I've missed, please? Where is the voting button(s)?

Thanks John.

Not a totally useful feature if you have to rely on external metering, in my opinion, but it does mean that it is useable in this mode. I was aware of this facility, but had discounted it.

Well I think you're all biassed.

Unfortunately, so am I.

I lusted after a Pentax long before I could afford one, then used the wife's Halina for years. I eventually managed to justify an SLR, and got the MES in 1980. Worked great for many years until I dropped it only a foot onto an oak floor. After that, the exposure was wrong, and the shutter wouldn't go above about 1/250th.

A couple of years ago, I restarted my photography interest, and started a C&G course. Haven't finished it yet as I've had a few health problems. However, I now have an MZ-M, bought for the course, an MZ-6, because the Wife was doing the course as well, and an *ist. (Oh yes, also a repaired MES, and a replacement MES, and then an MX that I got cheap because the focussing screen was dirty, and the body well used). I'm still waiting for a Pentax digital, which I want to hang up my film cameras for. I'm tempted by the *istDS, but I'm sure there will be another one along soon (well, before they stop making film).

Ratings, well, the wife loves the *ist as it is small and light, especially with it's original 35-90 lens. It's only downfall is that it won't work with K series lenses, and won't accept aperture ring selection.

I use the MZ-6 mostly, but the MX and MZ-M stay in a small bag with a selection of lenses and I go out for lunchtime photo hunts with it when I get a chance (or can be bothered) .

I rarely use the autofocus, and use the manual exposures a frequently as auto. Trouble is, I don't always remember to switch back to auto, and don't always look at the exposure details in the viewfinder (tut-tut) .

I really don't know which is the best, I like them all.

After all that, I will vote for the MZ-6. Some say the MZ-5n is better, but I can't say as I've never owned one.

I know this has been raised before under slave and studio flash problems, but I now have a new problem associated with P-TTL.

I'm using a *ist and MZ6, both use the P-TTL with the 360FGZ flash. I wish to use the cameras in auto exposure on a remote lead of 100m which I've made up, to take photos of birds on a feeder. If I try to use the flash with fill in, it emits a pre-flash, sufficiently far ahead of the main flash and shutter release, to disturb the birds. Alternatively, I can use other dedicated flashes, but can't set the exposure compensation on the flashes to give me a decent fill in.

There must be a way of defeating the P-TTL pre-flash, but still be able to set the flash compensation? Do I need to get yet another flash, like the 500?

I need to use the auto modes, as the light levels are constantly changing, but I can't attend the camera, only watch through a telescope.

Regards

Taliety