Great news, thanks for the tip Pete.
Now I just have to get myself that special usb cable so I can try the software.

I don´t want to touch the camera during the shooting sequence.
And during Sv, only shutter speed is brackted.

My intention was to shoot indoors, with camera on a tripod. Three exposures which later on should be blended together. No problem with plain shutter speed bracketing so far, but I thought of adding a fill flash to the scene. Then I would get different propotions of ambient light vs flash light if I use shutter speed bracketing.

By the way, does anybody know if the K10D is possible to remote control (not just shutter release) via the usb port and a pc ?

Ragnar

Hi all,

I think I know the answer to my question ("sorry, you can´t do that"), but I still have some hope...
I have the latest firmware in my K10D, and I often use auto exposure bracketing. So far, I have only used aeb in Av mode and the camera would bracket the shutter speed. Now I would like to keep shutter speed and aperture fixed, and just bracket the iso. Thought TAv would do the job, but in that mode, the camera brackets both shutter speed and aperture.
Is it possible to do iso bracketing ?

Thanks
Ragnar

James,
On the vase & table picture, I think reflectors used to catch the incoming window light could not light up the whole scene from the small shelf to the front of the table so evenly. Also, the shadow under the front of the table top points to some light source above and behind the photographer.

Matt,
The bookshelf was the first thing to catch my eye too. Too bright and a little different in color temperature. I enlarged the picture and found that there is a small shadow on the bottom surface of the top shelf (middle section) and on bigger one the top surface of the books in lower shelfs. I just can´t figure out what light source and posistion is used to get that result. Must be high positioned.
What edition of the book were you referring to ? I might find one on ebay...

Don,
Yes, I suppose there are reflectors or fixtures in combination with flashlight in the vase & table picture.
But in the pool table scene, a flash gun on the floor behind the table would have cast some obvious shadows. And also filled out the stairs shadow on the red wall under the stairs.

Thank you all, I think I will start practising picture blending with multiple exposures. My flash guns can rest for a while...

Ragnar

Hello all,

Some time ago, with lots of help from this forum, I learned how to use my K10D with external flashes. Many thanks for this. I think I can take a decent indoor picture now, in most cases. I use manual mode for both camera and flashguns, and usually I bounce a small external on-camera gun into the ceiling or a wall behind me. Then I carry an optically triggered slave with a diffusor in my left hand, which I use as a torch light to light up the darkest areas in front of me. This setup may be combined with a radio triggered gun in another room and/or one extra optically triggered gun.
I shoot in raw, ev 200 - 800, and try to even out shadows & highlights and color temperature differences in photoshop.
Now, since I found these images (see links below) on the Internet, I want to move on to the next level... Because these are all far beyond what I can produce.
So, I would appreciate if you could help me analyze how these were made.

First, we have these
link
link
link
link
link
link
I can see no signs of flashguns being used at all. Very soft and evenly distributed light. If I use a flashgun to support existing artificial light, I expect big trouble with blue tones from the flash (or yellow/red tones from the lamps). So my guess is : No flashguns used at all. Multiple images with different exposures are taken with the use of a tripod. It looks like a very big EV span in one image to me, but I can see no sign of "HDR look", so I go for image blending into one image in photoshop.

Then this one
link
A strong front light, but almost no shadows behind the vase. My guess is dual umbrella mounted guns, just above and beside the photographer´s head. Or is that to much of a setup to expect for just one picture in a property-for-sale offer like this ?

If you can find out anything of the behind-the-scenes making of these pictures, I would be most grateful for your advice.

Thanks
Ragnar

Zoltan,

goto link.
Under Image Quality Database (Compare Cameras) just choose make (Pentax) and models (k200d & k20d) or whatever.

Ragnar

I'm quite satisfied with the interface, integration etc of ACR. But I'm willing to trade off some of that if I can gain in quality. I'll give SilkyPix a chance, just need some time to do it ...

I laso fond this thread from 2007 :
link
So I will definiteley have a look at SP.

Before I found this forum, I was thinking that a raw converter is a raw converter although the user interface may vary. Now I realize that my pictures may be better treated in one than in another.

Thanks for comments !
Ragnar

I have been browsing the forum and I recall reading somewhere that it is essential to have a raw converter that makes a good job with the type of raw file you have.
Currently I use DNG format (not PEF). And I use the Camera Raw that comes with CS2.
Now, if we only focus on image quality in the end, could I benefit by changing anything of the above ?

Ragnar

Matt,

I was just struggling with that issue when I found your comment. I switched to Slave2, and now I can even fire the 540 from a flourocent lamp ! So I can save myself from the troubleshooting now an spend some time on Ebay instead.

Thanks a lot.

Ragnar