The Pentax K10D grip doesn't fit the Samsung GX10. The camera body mouldings are different.

Sure. Visit my son's web site at www.rsphotographics.com and look through the TVRC Novice Indoor Showjumping Qualifier pics.

I was shooting with my K20D and DA* 50-135mm for the most part. I did use the 77mm Ltd towards the end when the daylight was fading but I'm not sure if any of those made it to the web site. My son was shooting a Canon 30D and Canon 70-200 L IS USM lens.

My shots are numbered _K20????, the rest are from the Canon.

These shots are not finished, they are essentially proofs that have had some exposure comp, straightening and cropping, and WB adjustment. It's not worth finishing 1200+ shots when only 20 or so might sell.

If you want to see finished versions of any in particular, let me have the image number and I'll post them here without the watermark.

I was recently shooting a show jumping event where the lighting was a mix of high pressure sodium (orange) and varying degrees of daylight.

I did try to use my Expodisc (yes I bought one as well, 2 actually, different sizes) and it worked great . . . for one shot. The lighting changed for virtually every shot, it was a lighting nightmare. Good event though. I shot ISO2500-3500, 1/320th, f2.8 all day. Got some pretty good images too.

In all three of the modes you mention the camera is setting the shutter speed based on an ambient light exposure.

Less than 1/60th is far from useless if you are trying to balance ambient light and flash. The flash duration is anything up to 1/40000th so it's pretty much irrelevant what the shutter speed is. When using flash, it's the aperture that controls the exposure, not the shutter speed.

Try this, Set the camera to manual, shutter to 1/125, aperture to f11, take a flash shot of a subject about 4 meters away. Note what the image looks like. Change the aperture up and down leaving shutter speed at 1/125th. Note the change in exposure. Now set the aperture to f11 and change the shutter speed up and down. Note . . . not a lot of difference until you get to the very slow speeds.

I don't think you have any problem with your lens, flash, or camera. Just try not to drop it again, it might not survive quite as well next time.

Set the mode dial to M, make sure high speed flash is disabled, turn on the flash, then try to get higher than 1/180th. If you can't, it's fine.

Nathan,

How different is the lighting from your Lastolite Ezybox compared to a shoot through brolly? I would have thought they would be very similar.

That's an excellent price Matt, and free delivery too. Thanks for the link.

The SMCP-F 70-210mm lens is a superb performer.

Thanks Matt. Can you tell me the open diameter of the brolly?

Thanks to all for your comments. HK it'll be then . . . probably. I'll take a look at Castle Cameras too Matt.